Made another Stator Slider, version 2
- Thread starter mike1180
- Start date
I like the stock look....build another and I'll road test it for you.....or charge me.....who cares ????....I LIKE IT !!!!
+1 Very, very nice and clean. When does production on these here girls start and availability?
Great job Mike, love it also.
Contact when available.....the sloped/rounded edges make it look almost production, very clean.....that is, if you're interested in making me one. I have found most of the aftermarkets lack a certain smoothness, and I really don't need a big, bulky one that says Hayabusa on it....... :oldcool:
mike1180
Banned
Thanks to all for the positive feed back!
It is greatly appreciated especially from this group.
It is really difficult for me to build these for anyone.
I am now getting to be time limited, as my very short riding season has just started (the reason I do a lot of these projects is I am waiting to ride but I can’t)
Also being in Canada, the shipping back and forth would mean a lot of down time for you guys and that is not good either.
Also, the way I did it, the cover does not have to be removed, which means you don’t have to drain the oil, or get a new gasket etc, and less down time.
Really this is the easiest project to do.
Here are a couple of hints:
1. The area we want to protect is illustrated in the attached photos from ebay of used stator covers. There is one area that seems to get it more than others, and I think that is due to this portion hitting the ground, and grinding at high lean angles. Keep that in mind as you build your slider. I don’t really like the look of the Woodcraft when I see these wear pics, as it seems to be weak at that point, but someone will correct me if I am wrong.
2. The aluminum stock can be cut the easiest with a carbide tip metal blade for a circular saw. This will cut through just like it is ¼ inch plywood, it really is amazing.
This blade also works for wood after, so you haven’t wasted any money.
3. The pieces are ground easily with an angle grinder. The grinding wheel does gum up with aluminum, but it keeps working fine, and when you go to grind ferrous metals again after, all the attached aluminum comes right off.
4. We need 3 pieces to attach marked as I, II, and III. In the pic #II is already epoxied on. Put it on, and harden for 24 hours first as it can support the other 2 when they go on.
Make sure you leave room for the bolts to come off when the pieces are on.
5. Cut and grind your pieces to fit fairly tight together, esp at the wear point described above.
6. Rough up both sides where the epoxy will go (I used #24 sandpaper and really gouge it so the epoxy bonds)
6. The trick with JB Weld is that it is sort of fluid up to a point and then in 5 minutes it gets quite hard.
Test out with a small bit when that point is (depends on ambient temp) for if you put the pieces on before that point it will run, and the pieces will slide off, but if you get the point right, you put them on and in 5 minutes they are set, and won’t easily move.
7. Make sure you gets lots of epoxy in the cracks, and you can give a second coat.
8. The angle grinder (I used 4 in.) is used to rough shape the shape after it has set for 24 hours, and then 150, 240, and 400 sandpaper to smooth it. Aluminum is really a joy to work with and is nice and soft, so it is quite a quick job.
9. I masked off the area (masking tape and newspaper) that I wanted paint to stick to, and got some gloss black that will go to about 250 degrees, and sprayed it up.
A lot of the cover lies behind the fairing, so you don’t have to paint the whole thing – it won’t show.
Hey good luck and there is a special joy with DIY especially when it works and looks good.
It is greatly appreciated especially from this group.
It is really difficult for me to build these for anyone.
I am now getting to be time limited, as my very short riding season has just started (the reason I do a lot of these projects is I am waiting to ride but I can’t)
Also being in Canada, the shipping back and forth would mean a lot of down time for you guys and that is not good either.
Also, the way I did it, the cover does not have to be removed, which means you don’t have to drain the oil, or get a new gasket etc, and less down time.
Really this is the easiest project to do.
Here are a couple of hints:
1. The area we want to protect is illustrated in the attached photos from ebay of used stator covers. There is one area that seems to get it more than others, and I think that is due to this portion hitting the ground, and grinding at high lean angles. Keep that in mind as you build your slider. I don’t really like the look of the Woodcraft when I see these wear pics, as it seems to be weak at that point, but someone will correct me if I am wrong.
2. The aluminum stock can be cut the easiest with a carbide tip metal blade for a circular saw. This will cut through just like it is ¼ inch plywood, it really is amazing.
This blade also works for wood after, so you haven’t wasted any money.
3. The pieces are ground easily with an angle grinder. The grinding wheel does gum up with aluminum, but it keeps working fine, and when you go to grind ferrous metals again after, all the attached aluminum comes right off.
4. We need 3 pieces to attach marked as I, II, and III. In the pic #II is already epoxied on. Put it on, and harden for 24 hours first as it can support the other 2 when they go on.
Make sure you leave room for the bolts to come off when the pieces are on.
5. Cut and grind your pieces to fit fairly tight together, esp at the wear point described above.
6. Rough up both sides where the epoxy will go (I used #24 sandpaper and really gouge it so the epoxy bonds)
6. The trick with JB Weld is that it is sort of fluid up to a point and then in 5 minutes it gets quite hard.
Test out with a small bit when that point is (depends on ambient temp) for if you put the pieces on before that point it will run, and the pieces will slide off, but if you get the point right, you put them on and in 5 minutes they are set, and won’t easily move.
7. Make sure you gets lots of epoxy in the cracks, and you can give a second coat.
8. The angle grinder (I used 4 in.) is used to rough shape the shape after it has set for 24 hours, and then 150, 240, and 400 sandpaper to smooth it. Aluminum is really a joy to work with and is nice and soft, so it is quite a quick job.
9. I masked off the area (masking tape and newspaper) that I wanted paint to stick to, and got some gloss black that will go to about 250 degrees, and sprayed it up.
A lot of the cover lies behind the fairing, so you don’t have to paint the whole thing – it won’t show.
Hey good luck and there is a special joy with DIY especially when it works and looks good.
Last edited:
bigoltool
Registered
First of all excellent work!
Way to take an idea and work out the bugs in each iteration.
I have one question to do with the parts staying put in a wreck. A few others questioned how strong the bond between the JB weld and the case was so I was wondering if it would make the thing stronger if it was through-bolted from the inside of the cover and then putty it up with the JB weld after the fact? you could tap a few holes in the 1/4" Aluminum pieces and use some low profile fasteners inside the case maybe? Not sure it would help much but?
Way to take an idea and work out the bugs in each iteration.I have one question to do with the parts staying put in a wreck. A few others questioned how strong the bond between the JB weld and the case was so I was wondering if it would make the thing stronger if it was through-bolted from the inside of the cover and then putty it up with the JB weld after the fact? you could tap a few holes in the 1/4" Aluminum pieces and use some low profile fasteners inside the case maybe? Not sure it would help much but?
mike1180
Banned
First of all excellent work!
I have one question to do with the parts staying put in a wreck. A few others questioned how strong the bond between the JB weld and the case was so I was wondering if it would make the thing stronger if it was through-bolted from the inside of the cover and then putty it up with the JB weld after the fact? you could tap a few holes in the 1/4" Aluminum pieces and use some low profile fasteners inside the case maybe? Not sure it would help much but?
I think it is plenty strong enough, but your idea would even work better,
but I didn't want to take the cover off.
so in a nano second your gonna have some nice scratches in your newly painted/modified stator cover...glad you took a before picture....happy cornering my friend
Thanks!
You know a brand new OEM stator cover can be bought for about $60 from a discount parts dealer.
My mod is just so I don't have to walk back if I lay it down.
Believe it or not where I ride most there is no cell service, and walking is a real drag.
I can fix it or just build another on a new cover, if it comes to that, as long as I don't have to use the "shoe leather express"
coreywiley
Registered
nice work bro
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