Frank. I like the swing arm. It was worth the price. I am using a pingel strut set low. I am not sure if that,s the way to go. I would have chewed up My tail section using the shock. After I raced the turbo, I adjusted My front. Stiffened compression and looseded rebound. The wieght transfur between shifts was causing Me to loose traction. On one run that I have on video the bike did about 10 wheelies and a 9.40 at 157. even a 4th gear wheele when it caught. Very wierd. My tire had spun on the rim and the Mickey had 130 grams to balance it. My quickest run was 9.345@ 1.678 60 ft 330 4.228 1/8 6.219 1000 ft 7.915 157.01. My best 1/8 mph 127.33 best 60 ft 1.630. My mph was consistant 157 - 158.45 second gear spun bad on every run but I was never able to shift in time. Got any tips. I have only been a part time racer for the past 2 years.
MC EXPRESS ON THE ROAD
- Thread starter OB_THE MOTORHEAD
- Start date
Boosta,
I've never done this but I have seen guys launch balancing the bike almost vertical with the right foot and keeping the left foot under the shifter ready for the 2nd gear shift. One particular rider at our track has very good luck with this method.
[This message has been edited by zxfan (edited 05 August 2000).]
I've never done this but I have seen guys launch balancing the bike almost vertical with the right foot and keeping the left foot under the shifter ready for the 2nd gear shift. One particular rider at our track has very good luck with this method.
[This message has been edited by zxfan (edited 05 August 2000).]
Frank Adams
Registered
I have plenty of tips.
Get ready to start working with that tail section because you'll never get anywhere with that strut.
Carve, cut, remove the under fender if you have to but you'll need to set it up with the shock.
How many bikes in the shootout class do you know of that are setup with a strut?(none)
If you can make your weight transfer right thats what it's going to take to get that baby hooked up!
Once you get a working shock back on there you might need to take some links out of your chain.
Get ready to start working with that tail section because you'll never get anywhere with that strut.
Carve, cut, remove the under fender if you have to but you'll need to set it up with the shock.
How many bikes in the shootout class do you know of that are setup with a strut?(none)
If you can make your weight transfer right thats what it's going to take to get that baby hooked up!
Once you get a working shock back on there you might need to take some links out of your chain.
OB_THE MOTORHEAD
Registered
**** i only got 2 passe and ran 980s at 164 tonight with a 4 over arm.almost stalled the thing once with the cluch being different and all.i am also not nunning any kind of clutch mod just the hd springs.i need some saddle time thats for sure.although i did hit the rev limiter in 6th on the way home with the 18 tooth front sprocket.
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
I don't need to hear this with my wife gone for a week I already made a phone call I might be single soon 
ATTN: FRANK. I put the shock in using lowering links in the last hole. ( lowest ) removed the liscense plate light, set rebound and compression 1 click out. Went for a test ride with tire press at 11 psi. It felt great but My tail light got ate up from the tire. The air shifter is too slow. the killis too long. I was going to try killing only 2 coils. And I will remove 2 links from the chain. Do You have any more ideas? Your help is appreciated
Frank Adams
Registered
The best way to dial in your rear suspenion is to have a set of Mcintosh lowering Links.
Just a turn of a 9/16 wrench and you can adjust your heigth with detail. Anywhere you wanta put it cause they're are threaded.
If you didn't tighten your rear spring up yet you need to!
Try running the two spring nuts down 3 threads(at least) to start with.
You have two dampeners on your rear shock, one on the top and one on the bottom. Top one is for rebound. The bottom one is for compression and this is the main one you need to adjust.
On the top one count all the clicks and put it in the middle.
Do the same on the rear untill you start making passes. If your still having tire spin start turning the clicks lower making it softer.
Stiff rear settings will cause tire spin.
Too soft rear settings will cause it to wheelie.
Never strap the frontend if you want to get weight transfer to the rearend.
You can also soften the clicks on the top of the front forks(rebound) to gain weight transfer to the rear.
If your carrying the wheel around 6" off the ground thru 1st gear you know your getting close.
If you are still having trouble spinning the tire your gonna need to take a link or two out of the chain.
I would not run any lower on your air pressure either. Work with the shock and then go to the chain for results.
Just a turn of a 9/16 wrench and you can adjust your heigth with detail. Anywhere you wanta put it cause they're are threaded.
If you didn't tighten your rear spring up yet you need to!
Try running the two spring nuts down 3 threads(at least) to start with.
You have two dampeners on your rear shock, one on the top and one on the bottom. Top one is for rebound. The bottom one is for compression and this is the main one you need to adjust.
On the top one count all the clicks and put it in the middle.
Do the same on the rear untill you start making passes. If your still having tire spin start turning the clicks lower making it softer.
Stiff rear settings will cause tire spin.
Too soft rear settings will cause it to wheelie.
Never strap the frontend if you want to get weight transfer to the rearend.
You can also soften the clicks on the top of the front forks(rebound) to gain weight transfer to the rear.
If your carrying the wheel around 6" off the ground thru 1st gear you know your getting close.
If you are still having trouble spinning the tire your gonna need to take a link or two out of the chain.
I would not run any lower on your air pressure either. Work with the shock and then go to the chain for results.
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