Miracle Mod Airbox wrap

Mr Bogus said:
:rofl: CALCULATOR

I would be hard pressed to defend this guys trash myself:

you gotta be mental to buy this kind of sales hype.. 1 to 2 seconds off a lap time? I about peed my pants lauging... can you see some guy roll into a track and reset the track record by 2 seconds with an airbox mod? or reset the ET record by 3 or 4 tenths? :rofl:

I watch guys struggle to pull a couple tenths off a lap time over 2 miles or more.. this is like Carlo Rossi or Gadson in a can... :laugh:
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I actually havn't visited the site, just saw an add in a magazine, I'de agree that it's bs after seeing the claim of more throttle control for stunters
thats kinda pushin it.
 
I've tested different options in wrapping the airbox. When you're moving there's no measurable reduction in the inlet air temp directly associated with a wrapped box under a gas tank.
 
2busa said:
I'd wait for winter to up the HP. No mods, just a few months of waiting while I sip on $150 worth of brewskis waiting out win tear.... Oh, it's January! Time flies!

Hole lee sheet, I gained so much HP, I moved where it always snows! I have frost bike on my toes, but the frost bite took a huge jump in HP... Like maybe 1/2 a horse is azz.

Now, take that temp gun, remove the box after the bike was flogged for a few miles. What is our temp read hot? See, the bike must have been sitting outside and now the gun shoots the stock box. They bring it inside, wrap water heater blanket bits on it, and the gun shows a drop in temp being in the garage and the coating pulled the heat like a radiator.


If you sat in a room with the water heater jacket and the temp of all that is in the room evens out to the same room temp, did not that jacket reach the same room temp? Think about it.
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But then the rear tire won't hook up due to the cold temps :rofl:
 
I would think on the street in heavy traffic or cruising the strip at slow speeds is where this would help in keeping the engine temps where they belong... :dunno:
 
DR1300R said:
I would think on the street in heavy traffic or cruising the strip at slow speeds is where this would help in keeping the engine temps where they belong... :dunno:
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Hey Doyle!

this really has little to do with "engine" temps.. It is about air inlet temps and air "density"

the motor pulls more than enough air through the air box to keep temp gains from happening to the air going into the motor..

The dyno guy may not believe it but this stuff really old hat and is just regurgitated junk in an effort to leverage your hard earned bucks from your wallet.. Plastic in itself is not to bad an insulator (ref)

PVC and PTFE are both very good insulates in their own right (.14 and .25) where as rockwool (common insulate) is .045. Asbestos is at .16

By comparison aluminum is 250 (no dots here) if you make your airbox out of aluminum? you might see some help.. maybe.. but who is going to screw up something that works so they can just go back and fix it...

Now to put a quick bit into perspective.. the air box might be 4cf ?

(someone correct this if it is wrong..)

1300 X .061 = 79.3 cubic inches..
the motor pulls something close to that ever 2 revolutions.. or 600 times a minute @ 1200 rpm (probably way optimistic but this is only an idle figure)

79.3*600/12=3965cf or a turn over of almost 1000 times a minute through the airbox..

if those numbers are even close (and I am not sure, but I am probably missing something an engineer can add) that is a lot of air to try and heat through an airbox wall with the insulate property twice as good as asbestos..
 
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I have dropped this project you can ask bigrob1300 who stopped by today I am absolutely slammed with engine builds. Thanks for listening

Greg
 
I have to rate Mr. Bogus high on the, "No-BS" list of guiding you in a logical direction. Science is pretty basic. That boy has empty pockets just to confirm his own testing that you hit a brick wall with a dead end as the sign post.

Mr. Bogus says: "3965cf or a turn over of almost 1000 times a minute through the airbox.."
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Now, if you move that "cf" that fast, how can you cool the air? It's as simple as you flipping the A/C fan on in the car, and demand instant cool air as the Hi position is blowing the warm air way too fast to even cool that air being directed out the vent to your sweaty arm pits.
 
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Good for me and HPC never claimed this mod would gain anything, we just won't post anything regarding theory now unless we test it first and its proven at the track. We will be going to the track for the next ten years. I am 41, Lord willing. I will still wrap all my airboxes though from here on out. Suzuki uses a heat sheild on the bottom of the Gen II tank same theory...one is less effective. Thats where my idea came from....as I was coating an exhaust with 1500 degree ceramic coating...stupid me.
 
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GPW said:
Good for me and HPC never claimed this mod would gain anything, we just won't post anything regarding theory now unless we test it first and its proven at the track. We will be going to the track for the next ten years. I am 41. I will still wrap all my airboxes though from here on out. Suzuki uses a heat sheild on the bottom of the Gen II tank same theory...one is less effective. Thats where my idea came from....as I was coating an exhaust with 1500 degree ceramic coating...stupid me.
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Any HP increase or cooler running temps with the ceramic exhaust coating ???
Posted via Mobile Device
 
GPW said:
none it looks hot though....
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hmmmm.... i know thats a claim alot of stang guys around here like to make. ceramic headers are the only way and such. never seen it doing anything a wrap wouldnt do but it looks awesome, and wont blue and discolor like chrome or polish.
 
DSCF1117-1.jpg
 
these guys make a high temp ceramic this would be cool on the header pipes i think

dcr_07.jpg
 
awww never mind... :rofl: reminds me of highschool shop class when we gotta go through Q and A about racing...
 
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