motorcycle oil or car oil

i'm not trying to toss clay or anything but....

how many companies buy/use "the best oil". It comes down to cost/risk... if a company can get away with using something that is not the best and is also cheap without increasing the maintenance costs above the oil cost they're doin good! Regardless of how good/bad, cheap/expensive, new/used the oil may be. Plus at some point the value of the asset is so low that they may want it to break so it can be written off and a new asset can be purchased. Helps to reduce taxes too...

sorry man but I don't know a company in the world who does something that isn't driven by margins.
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i'm not trying to toss clay or anything but....

how many companies buy/use "the best oil". It comes down to cost/risk... if a company can get away with using something that is not the best and is also cheap without increasing the maintenance costs above the oil cost they're doin good! Regardless of how good/bad, cheap/expensive, new/used the oil may be. Plus at some point the value of the asset is so low that they may want it to break so it can be written off and a new asset can be purchased. Helps to reduce taxes too...

sorry man but I don't know a company in the world who does something that isn't driven by margins.
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If you work on heavy equipment, the costs are astronomical when it comes to repairs.. The guys I know that work on them use the best lubricants they can get as it is the "Pay me now, or pay me later" thing.. (within reason)

I believe think you can get lubricants that are "overkill" for applications and so you need some track history for certain areas and some common sense. Why run pricey waterproof bearing greases in your car? certainly would not run anything but in my boat trailer..

What is sad is when a company adds the "Motorcycle" tag to a can of oil and triples the sale price, (there is your margin) I just use the API grades for selection, not the sales hype on the can
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How does the military spec grease? and what do they look for? when I see "mil spec" I tend to associate it with "better" is that correct?
 
mil spec tends to make me think about increased variables during longer testing periods.

Sometimes I also think about mil spec toilet seats which may costs three times more and still may not be more comfortable...
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Ah, the never-ending, pointless oil debate.... the bane of all bike forums...
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Most modern motorcycle motor oils kick ass compared to their equivalents Back in the Day. You pretty much can't got wrong with any of them as long as you stay in the viscosity range and maintain your change interval.

Car oil? Truth be told, I've used Mobil One for more than a decade on many, many different bikes with nary a problem. Still use it in my Endurance Rally bike. As long as you avoid the "energy saving" variant, you're not going to have any issues with Mobil One.

The Old School in me decided to change oil at 25 miles (you know... just in case this early running produced a bit of tiny machined shavings, etc). Otherwise, it'll be the 600 miles and normal interval after that.

Changing more frequently ain't going to harm anything, but it's pretty much unnecessary. Still, if it makes you feel better, hey... it's your machine, your $$$ to do with as you please...
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Check out the info here. More info than you can injest.
Motorcycle oil forum and oil analysis info.

Shell Rotella and even (Wallmart) SuperTech had some very good test results.

Bob is the oil guy
 
Dont use car oil ! Motorcycles have wet clutches that car oils cuase to slip.
This is very true. Motorcycle oil has an ash content that keeps the cluches from slipping. Car oil causes premature cluch wear. You can get motorcycle oil for about $3 a quart at the local parts store. Also most bike deales carry Bel-Ray and their non synthetic is $3 a liter.
I run Mobil 1 Car oil and have 25000 miles on my original stock clutch plates, and bike made 460 hp on the dyno.  Been turbo for the past 5-6 years
 
Dont use car oil ! Motorcycles have wet clutches that car oils cuase to slip.
This is very true. Motorcycle oil has an ash content that keeps the cluches from slipping. Car oil causes premature cluch wear. You can get motorcycle oil for about $3 a quart at the local parts store. Also most bike deales carry Bel-Ray and their non synthetic is $3 a liter.
I run Mobil 1 Car oil and have 25000 miles on my original stock clutch plates, and bike made 460 hp on the dyno.  Been turbo for the past 5-6 years
Smithabusa I bet your running a lockup, or you should be with that kind of hp. What system do you have and what size turbo is it?
 
I have a lockup now, but went years without a lockup, just heavy springs and a slave support with no issues of clutch slippage, made 344 hp on my hahn kit with car oil. I have a stage 2 turbo with some MCxpress parts like air to air intercooler, K27 54-10 Turbo, Microtech fuel controller with 3bar map and 650 cc RC injectors, vband Tial blowoff and wastegate, full exhaust and dump pipes, RCC plenum with billet fuel rail, nice stuff
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I've personally seen bikes make near 500 hp with stock clutch hub, heavy springs (i dont like that much lever pressure) and clutch slave support with Mobil 1 Synthetic.
 
I've personally seen bikes make near 500 hp with stock clutch hub, heavy springs (i dont like that much lever pressure) and clutch slave support with Mobil 1 Synthetic.
Interesting, I was always under the impression a lockup was needed over 300hp. I've had a stage2 and stage3 Velocity kit, but sold them a couple of years ago. I recently bought the new 08 busa and can't wait to pour the boost to it. I will stick to a stage 2 this time, much more enjoyable on the street.[when the time comes I'd like to talk with you about your shift light{stock one sucks} and boost controller} Glad to see you spending some time here now.
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I believe that the speeds we do with the Busa we do not want a rod coming through the block and therefore I use the best available and change evey 5000kms.For the past 40000kms I have used Royale Purple. Most Busa owners keep their bikes for a long time and they end up with high milage. By using a standard car oil you will see the results much later on with engine failure. I simple do not want my motor to blow at 300kph!
 
Lots of old school still here... Castrol (Was my favorite all time oil) I too used this in all my bikes for years! Never had a problem one, still think its a great oil. Also, used Mobile 1 another really good performer. Lately I've been running Amsoil and I couldn't be happier. Guess the point is to each his own, not every location is the same and not everyones budget is the same. I say if it ain't giving you any problems then use what suits you best.
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