Mounting Titainium Rear Brake Rotor

[Gixx1300R]

Is it the Rear Titanium rotor from Yoyodyne?

 

[OB_Hapo]

How does one mount a rotor that is thinner than stock and has no couter boreing around the mounting holes! Do you use regular fasteners? How do you locate the rotor and what keeps it from shifting under load? The inquiring minds at Cycle Performance need to know, or I am going to end up with the stock rotor on my Busa and a $250 paper wieght...

 

[OB_GSXRTURBO1]

Good point Hapo....let us know what you come up with. I would think you would either need the rotor counter bored, or perhaps pinned.

 

[OB_Hapo]

...I think it is too thin to counter bore, about 1/8" thick...What is pinning? If it involves drilling into my Dymag wheel I will give that a pass...

 

[OB_GSXRTURBO1]

Yeah, it does involve drilling, and it's only a guess as to whether or not it would work/help. The company that manufactured the rotor SHOULD know what to do...have you tried them yet??

 

[OB_GSXRTURBO1]

Maybe using shouldered button fasteners would work....?? Did they include any fasteners with the rotor??

 

[OB_Don Vernay]

Jesus, if you spent all of that money on a tianium rotor and Dymags, you should have titanium rotor bolts as well as caliper monting bolts. The differnence in rotating mass with the ti rotor bolts is considerable.

 

[OB_Hapo]

...nope, no fasterners...supplyer is out of touch...don't know manufacturer...shouldered button sounds like an Idea...thanks for the suggestions!

 

[OB_Hapo]

...looks like this is a non issue...just inexperiened with this thing at my shop...supplyer is in contact with shop as I type this to explain that the OEM fastners are employed, although he insists new fastners should be used...

 

[OB_GSXRTURBO1]

Good to hear you found a solution and don't have to use an expensive paperweight!

 

[OB_KawAbuser]

Hapo, check with Jeffw.

I have ti and OEM mounting bolts if you need them.

Jeffs rotor is mounted on a Technomagnesio wheel.

The DYMAG uses OEM bolts, the only differance between the Ti bolts and OEM is weight.

The OEM disc is a little thicker.

Mount the caliper a bit loose on its (so as to float a bit)mounting bolt.

Your disc is the same as I sent to Jeff except for the coating.

 

[OB_jeffw]

I used my supplied bolts on my mag wheels to mount the rotor. This should also work for you, no need to counter bore, the rotor is not going anywhere with 5 rotor bolts in it.

Do make sure that your pads fit *VERY* loose on the rotor. The rear caliper has pad springs in them that you should remove. Should you use the brake for stopping, or sliding the rear end (which it will do real easy) then you will be replacing that ti rotor quite often.

This rotor is not made to do real serious braking, it's just 9 oz comparred to the stock rotor at 2lb 8 oz. Nice to loose 2lb of rotating mass

I have two pics on my web site that show the rotor mounted on both the stock wheel, and my new mag wheels.

http://fatman.pro-libertate.com/~jeffw/hayabusa/Brakes/brakes.html

 

[OB_Hapo]

...the thing is too light to make a good paper weight anyway, so you might as well put it on the bike, Kaw...we will just keep poor Jason away from those nasty aftermarket brake rotors, and hopefully avoid upsetting the lad again...he realy didn't want me to die or to fuk up my wheel...he will still be the exclusive paid wrench on my bike as I trust him and he is not afraid to admitt ignorance...(like some of you ego hounds on this board)

I don't use the rear brake for much, so wear should be tolerable...how long do you think the coating will last, jeffw? How is it holding up?(mine not coated)

Any numbers on the actual wieght savings of the Ti faseners vs the stock ones? The Ti fasteners seem to be about twice the cost of the oem ones...it would seem to me we have approached the Point of Diminishing Retuns on this one, and it has been suggested by KawAbuser that a Ti axle might save more wieght at a lesser cost...(But the Ti bolts look way cool and won't corrode) Any Data out there?



[This message has been edited by Hapo (edited 19 March 2000).]

 

[OB_KawAbuser]

Jenny Craig

 

[OB_jeffw]

Put to the scales 10 stock rotor bols were 10 oz, the same number of ti were 6 oz.
Cost of the 10 ti bolts $99.50. ($25/oz)

Ti axles for the busa are $350 each, the stock units 16 oz front, 18 oz rear. If the ti units were 1/2 the weight you are still out way more $$ per oz ($43/oz & $38/oz) than if you just bought rotor bolts.

Here is a real eye opener, the Mikuni triple clamps save 68 oz and cost $650...that's only $9.55/oz!

 

[OB_GSXRTURBO1]

Yeah, but it's not unsprung weight.

 

[OB_Don Vernay]

And rotating, unsprung weight is the best to remove.

 

[OB_jeffw]

Agree about the rotating mass & unspring weight, I have just about run out of places (the rest is very costly) to reduce any more.

 

[OB_Hapo]

...thanks for the info...it looks like you can loose 6 oz with front and rear Ti bolts @ $150 and and somewhere around a pound with Ti axles @ $700...the point of diminishing returns indeed...

Oh yea, the disk is an uncoated Yoyodine, gixxer1300...

[This message has been edited by Hapo (edited 19 March 2000).]

 

[OB_magic bus]

i bought the rear ti rotor a month ago. i just had to remove it because it warped. this was after maybe 200 miles of light use.
i dont know if it was defective.