My 100hp busa

[Charlesbusa]

Well here it is

The 1st run didn't have the fuel/air sensor in place, hence the straight line.

At least I finally know whats wrong with my bike, or at least I hope so at this point.

This dyno chart, weird fuel pump noises when I turn the key, and bypassing the PC3r and still having problems all point to a faulty fuel pump.

Unfortunately, I'm told a fuel pump costs about $500.00  

That's a little more than I can afford.  Whatya guys think, can I ride around below 5,000rpm and not cook-off my valves??  Any suggestions on making this fix as cheap as possible??



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[Revlis]

You allready checked and cleaned the fuel filters?

If you are dead certain it's a fuel Pump I can get a hella good deal on it for you. Lemme Know.

 

[Charlesbusa]

I have an '02 busa, for what I believe it doesn't have fuel filters right? The pump has a screen right?

 

[Revlis]

Yeah Ron Ayers, $414....

 

[MC MUSTANG]

Any way to get a salvage or rebuilt pump?

 

[Charlesbusa]

Any way to get a salvage or rebuilt pump?

Would it be worth it?? I'm hurting for money, but don't want to just be buying another pump in less than a year. What do you think?

 

[Revlis]

Well Don't quote me but here is the fiche and Suzuki part numbers. 2-2 $189 or so and then 3-1 or whatever is a screen as well. I also believe that there are a couple of others, But I am not certain...

Where's RSD? He's disected a Busa or two..

 

[Revlis]

I can find out tomorrow what I can do for you for a fuel pump...

 

[Charlesbusa]

Ahhh, so maybe I can get away with pulling it all out. Maybe clean, or just replace the filter and screen and reinstall with the old pump?

That'll be much cheaper, if the pump isn't bad. Anyway to know if the pump is ok or if it needs to be replaced too??

 

[Charlesbusa]

I can find out tomorrow what I can do for you for a fuel pump...

let me know.

I'm wondering if I should replace the pump assy. Or just replace the filter and clean the screen.



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[Charlesbusa]

I wondering if I could remove the fuel filter out of the system. And test run the bike without the filter to see if the pump is OK.

I hate to buy a filter for almost $180 then have to turn around and buy the whole assy for $414 because the pump is bad....

 

[Bergster]

looking at the pic. above the pump (motor part) looks like an automotive pump that many cars use now. cheap at your local parts store. If you pulled it apart and that was the problem, I'd take it and match it up. If you have a bunch of miles on her, it very well could be the screen or filter. just my $.02

 

[PACIFICBUSA]

hmm...

The best way to tell if your pump is the one at fault is to start it and listen for the whine.

If it's a half-assed whine, then yeah, I'd say ditch the pump and get a new one. If it sounds like a straining, I'm-trying-but-I-can't-seem-to-tie-my-shoes kinda whine, then I'd say ditch that one too.

If the whine sounds good (it should sound loud and clear) then I don't think that the pump would be the problem. I'd also need to know other aspects of the bike's running character.

Is it sputtering? Halting, hesitating? It could be something a little more than just a fuel pump issue. To me, it sounds like something internal.

Yes, a fuel pump issue would limit the power of the bike, but with that dramatic of a power loss, you should be experiencing more than just wierd fule pump noises.


What other things are happening to the bike?

 

[PACIFICBUSA]

in regards to running a stand-alone filter, you can try doing that, but be real careful. If some sediment or other object gets into your pump, it could be bad juju.

In regards to testing it, you can do a pressure check test. If I remember correctly, the fuel pump should be putting out about 42psi open and about 20 something on start up.

Simple test would be to disconnect the fuel pump line that leads to the t-bodies and then turn on the key. For the 3 seconds or so that the pump primes up (the whine you hear), you should have a certain amount of gas in a measurable container.

Also, it'd be good to check your plugs and coils.

 

[Charlesbusa]

If it sounds like a straining, I'm-trying-but-I-can't-seem-to-tie-my-shoes kinda whine,



Is it sputtering? Halting, hesitating? It could be something a little more than just a fuel pump issue. To me, it sounds like something internal.

Yes, a fuel pump issue would limit the power of the bike, but with that dramatic of a power loss, you should be experiencing more than just wierd fule pump noises.


What other things are happening to the bike?

That's the kind of whine, a straining one. But wouldn't a clogged fuel filter also cause that? Or does the filter have a bypass?



No sputtering, halting. It hesiates/slips/whatever at 7000 rpm and above. But according to the dyno reading, that's cause the motor is only producing a 100hp.


The thing that alerted me to the problem is that I thought the clutch was slipping at 7,000 and above rpm. So I replaced the clutch and its still happening. Removed the air filter and its still happening. I have new chain and sprockets.

 

[Charlesbusa]

in regards to running a stand-alone filter, you can try doing that, but be real careful. If some sediment or other object gets into your pump, it could be bad juju.

In regards to testing it, you can do a pressure check test. If I remember correctly, the fuel pump should be putting out about 42psi open and about 20 something on start up.

Simple test would be to disconnect the fuel pump line that leads to the t-bodies and then turn on the key. For the 3 seconds or so that the pump primes up (the whine you hear), you should have a certain amount of gas in a measurable container.

Also, it'd be good to check your plugs and coils.

Plugs have 8,000 miles on them. Coils are still orginal 38K miles.



The pump seems to work fine except wide open throttle at 7,000rpm or higher. Is the only way to test the pump pressure for those conditions on a dyno??

 

[Charlesbusa]

Now that I think about it, I wouldn't think it'd be the coils or plugs. If they weren't spark'in, the fuel/air mix would be rich.

But when I lose power at 7,000rpm, the mix has gone way lean....

 

[PACIFICBUSA]

If it sounds like a straining, I'm-trying-but-I-can't-seem-to-tie-my-shoes kinda whine,  



Is it sputtering? Halting, hesitating? It could be something a little more than just a fuel pump issue. To me, it sounds like something internal.

Yes, a fuel pump issue would limit the power of the bike, but with that dramatic of a power loss, you should be experiencing more than just wierd fule pump noises.


What other things are happening to the bike?

That's the kind of whine, a straining one.  But wouldn't a clogged fuel filter also cause that?  Or does the filter have a bypass?



No sputtering, halting.  It hesiates/slips/whatever at 7000 rpm and above.  But according to the dyno reading, that's cause the motor is only producing a 100hp.


The thing that alerted me to the problem is that I thought the clutch was slipping at 7,000 and above rpm.  So I replaced the clutch and its still happening.  Removed the air filter and its still happening.  I have new chain and sprockets.

hmm...a clogged filter could definitely cause a strain of sorts.

You could try replacing the filter and see how the pump reacts from there. Also be sure that your fuel lines (both feeder and return) are not clogged or kinked.

And you said that it's the same thing when the PCr is disabled, right?

It could be a longshot, but could it also have something to do with your ECU?

 

[Charlesbusa]

If it sounds like a straining, I'm-trying-but-I-can't-seem-to-tie-my-shoes kinda whine,  



Is it sputtering? Halting, hesitating? It could be something a little more than just a fuel pump issue. To me, it sounds like something internal.

Yes, a fuel pump issue would limit the power of the bike, but with that dramatic of a power loss, you should be experiencing more than just wierd fule pump noises.


What other things are happening to the bike?

That's the kind of whine, a straining one.  But wouldn't a clogged fuel filter also cause that?  Or does the filter have a bypass?



No sputtering, halting.  It hesiates/slips/whatever at 7000 rpm and above.  But according to the dyno reading, that's cause the motor is only producing a 100hp.


The thing that alerted me to the problem is that I thought the clutch was slipping at 7,000 and above rpm.  So I replaced the clutch and its still happening.  Removed the air filter and its still happening.  I have new chain and sprockets.

hmm...a clogged filter could definitely cause a strain of sorts.

You could try replacing the filter and see how the pump reacts from there. Also be sure that your fuel lines (both feeder and return) are not clogged or kinked.

And you said that it's the same thing when the PCr is disabled, right?

It could be a longshot, but could it also have something to do with your ECU?

Yup, same result when PC3r dissconnected. So its not a bad map, or at least not only a bad map.

 

[PACIFICBUSA]

in regards to running a stand-alone filter, you can try doing that, but be real careful. If some sediment or other object gets into your pump, it could be bad juju.

In regards to testing it, you can do a pressure check test. If I remember correctly, the fuel pump should be putting out about 42psi open and about 20 something on start up.

Simple test would be to disconnect the fuel pump line that leads to the t-bodies and then turn on the key. For the 3 seconds or so that the pump primes up (the whine you hear), you should have a certain amount of gas in a measurable container.

Also, it'd be good to check your plugs and coils.

Plugs have 8,000 miles on them.  Coils are still orginal 38K miles.



The pump seems to work fine except wide open throttle at 7,000rpm or higher.  Is the only way to test the pump pressure for those conditions on a dyno??

Wow. Ok...I think it's about time to replace the coils.

The plugs, well...I guess it wouldn't hurt to try out a new set on them anyway. The good part about the plugs is that they're fairly cheap.

Re: the pump pressure check, I don't quite know of any other tests to measure pressure above 7k RPM aside from a pressure gauge to more accurately measure the PSI the pump is yielding.