My first install.. one question to start with :)
- Thread starter gulag
- Start date
well, got the bike started today. no leaks, sounds good !!!
I have a digital gauge for the boost, and it also shows vaccum, it was very unsteady (fluctuated).. I reved the engine to around 7-8000 rpm, then the meter got a bit steadier but it seemed to show 0 psi... ??
its connected directly to one of the vaccum pipe on the intake (on cyl #1)
any ideas on this? (the turbo did spin... hehe) but it did not spin at idle... is that normal?
I have a digital gauge for the boost, and it also shows vaccum, it was very unsteady (fluctuated).. I reved the engine to around 7-8000 rpm, then the meter got a bit steadier but it seemed to show 0 psi... ??
its connected directly to one of the vaccum pipe on the intake (on cyl #1)
any ideas on this? (the turbo did spin... hehe) but it did not spin at idle... is that normal?
OZBooster
Registered
You will not make boost pressure just revving the bike it needs load and a greater throttle position than your ever going to give it in neutral
you will need to be out on the road, , How were you tuning it ??
This is the point where a lot of guys do damage, you need to get your tuneup checked either with datalogging or on a dyno, with both don't load it for long initially give it a short burst and check the data , aim for 11.5 a/f ratio on boost , 12.5 off boost and a spark plug gap of .018
Plain bearing turbos may or may not spin at idle , ball bearing do
you will need to be out on the road, , How were you tuning it ??
This is the point where a lot of guys do damage, you need to get your tuneup checked either with datalogging or on a dyno, with both don't load it for long initially give it a short burst and check the data , aim for 11.5 a/f ratio on boost , 12.5 off boost and a spark plug gap of .018
Plain bearing turbos may or may not spin at idle , ball bearing do
Im having a bit of a problem,,,
I have a digital fuel pressure gauge, connected between FMU and fuel rail, I start the bike, the gauge reads 2.8 ~ 2.9 bars (40-42psi) just fine during idle, but if I rev it to 3000rpm, the gauge goes down to zero, I let the throttle off then the pressure goes to normal again, the bike runs fine even if the gauge reads zero... ? If I hold the rev at 3000rpm, the gauge falls to zero for a sec, then jumps up to max... and stays there...
any ideas?
the fmu is set with the brass screw all the way in, and 1 turn out, it's connected directly to the throttle bodies..
I have a digital fuel pressure gauge, connected between FMU and fuel rail, I start the bike, the gauge reads 2.8 ~ 2.9 bars (40-42psi) just fine during idle, but if I rev it to 3000rpm, the gauge goes down to zero, I let the throttle off then the pressure goes to normal again, the bike runs fine even if the gauge reads zero... ? If I hold the rev at 3000rpm, the gauge falls to zero for a sec, then jumps up to max... and stays there...
any ideas?
the fmu is set with the brass screw all the way in, and 1 turn out, it's connected directly to the throttle bodies..
If you have an RCC FMU, or an early BEGI FMU, there is a good chance that the shim inside is either cracked, dented, or damaged in some way. I think its time to take it apart and have a look . . .
arthur39
Registered
yes, there are shims in there, it looks like a BEGI but with out markings probably something similar, should have the same shims as BEGI, like powerhouse said they are probably cracked. HEre is a link to get you started FMU Parts and Rebuild Kits - BEGi, I would send it to em make sure it's done right. he'll fix em even if they aren't his 
OZBooster
Registered
Check your supply to the pump is not limited by a kinked fuel line , also what did you do to the original fuel pump and filter
those FMU shims are troublesome if the pressure spikes , there .003" thick stainless shim originally, many used to replace that with a .005 or up to .010 shim for better reliability, and if its a true BEGI (will say on it) you can send it back for an upgrade ..
and on the sparkplug thing, the irridium will not last any longer than std cr9e plugs , and cost lots more, i would put fresh plugs in and gapped to .018" for the dyno
those FMU shims are troublesome if the pressure spikes , there .003" thick stainless shim originally, many used to replace that with a .005 or up to .010 shim for better reliability, and if its a true BEGI (will say on it) you can send it back for an upgrade ..
and on the sparkplug thing, the irridium will not last any longer than std cr9e plugs , and cost lots more, i would put fresh plugs in and gapped to .018" for the dyno
I took the original fuel pump out and am using the original fuel feed T on the fuel rail for the return..
Im gonna take a look at this next weekend, I dont think its kinked fuel lines, I didnt put the fuel tank all the way down, its just a bit strange, cause the fuel pressure just drops in 0.1 sec, but the engine does not stall or die,, even though I keep it at 3000rpm...
Im gonna take a look at this next weekend, I dont think its kinked fuel lines, I didnt put the fuel tank all the way down, its just a bit strange, cause the fuel pressure just drops in 0.1 sec, but the engine does not stall or die,, even though I keep it at 3000rpm...
OZBooster
Registered
Ok
When i fit a turbo i put a outlet in the fuel well (kits like RCC and Velocity come out the bottom but i prefer the side so i can fit my pump underneath, just a personal preference )
and use the old supply as a return, the plastic fitting can be removed from the original fuel line and put into a 8mm/ hose so you have a quick release with swivel
Read your post again and you may be doing the same thing, initially thought you were T from one hose out of the tank
When i fit a turbo i put a outlet in the fuel well (kits like RCC and Velocity come out the bottom but i prefer the side so i can fit my pump underneath, just a personal preference )
and use the old supply as a return, the plastic fitting can be removed from the original fuel line and put into a 8mm/ hose so you have a quick release with swivel
Read your post again and you may be doing the same thing, initially thought you were T from one hose out of the tank
I was going to empty the fuel tank by putting the return hose to a fuel can, I switched the ignition on, and it pumped just for 2-3 sec.. then stopped, then I connected the fuel pump directly to the battery and then it pumped like a fuel station.. I connected the pump to the original wires that went to the in-tank fuel pump.. is there possibly a cut-out somewhere that cuts the current? (maybe I just connect the pump directly via relay..) ???
well,, dynoday today !!!!.... keeping my fingers crossed.. hopefully nothing will blow up...lease:
A set of heavy duty springs will suit your application just fine. There are springs that will hold 250-300 no problem, and there are even heavier springs that will support 400 rwhp by themselves . . .
