My lame review of metzler m3 tires

Revlis , where did you find that calculator? What are the recommended pressures for my bike?
Hey Bent, It's just Metzler's Website. Metzler Tires guide

Select your tire, then your bike and it will take you to whats recommended. It defaults to the sportec M1 but I thin kit's just waiting to be updated.
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I have about 1600 miles on mine now and I really like them a lot. They will definitely outlast my Stockers. Metzelers site may have been a bit optimistic though in regard to extended lifespan. If I were to take a stab based on current wear I would say they'll go 4000+ miles. The profile change was marked and welcome but for whatever reason I cannot make a dent in the chicken strips on the front tire. I have worn most of the Elephants off the edges of the rear but the front is laughing at me. I am grinding my peg feelers (damn things are sharp!)to dust with these tires and loving it! To quote a local racer from wayback (Craig Trinder) "these things stick like sh!t on a blanket mate"! I don't do track days though It is on my list of things to do. The only negative I have is the slightly harsher ride than the Stones at the current pressures/damping settings. Haven't had much wet weather lately but what I have ridden in they have been great. Pretty sure the front will last 2:1 so my wife wont have a coronary when I buy another rear in a few months. Hope this helps somebody!
 
I've got a question for y'all... I see people are using Pilot Powers and the M3s. But, when I went to the Honda Hoot, I spoke with the Michelin folks since they were giving away swag and I use PPs on my CBR600F4i. I asked if I could use PPs on my 'busa and was told emphatically NO. Use only the HPX on the heavier bikes. I presently have a set of M1s on my 'busa and they feel "squishy" to me if that makes any sense. I did not purchase the "P" version that Metzler lists for the 'busa, I just grabbed a set at Cycle Gear and put them on (I have a NoMar changer which I love). Should I have bought the "P?" But then I note there is no "P" version shown for the M3s?
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Arrrrghhhhhh! WTF do I do? Any advice is welcome.
Thanks
Steve
 
Oh, absolutely not. No one EVER uses PP on Busas. ;) [sarcasm] Once again proof, that the "Experts" aren't really. TONS of people here use PP on their busas with no problem.

Is the PP 'Optimal' for the busa? no. Does it work? just fine.

I tried the HPX a few rubbers back and I thought they sucked. hard to heat up, lots of slip, inspired no condifence for me. I never found out if they WORE well since I ditched them halfway thru their life I hated them so bad. And Michelin recommends them....... sure, they were designed for heavier bikes, have more rubber, cost even more [hidden agenda?] but in the end compared to all the other tires I have used, they sucked.

I'm using non 'P' version of M3s on mine now. They are just fine. I don't know what else the 'P' would get me other than deeper tread [more rubber], more weight, lasting a little longer, more cost.

If you look at the tire selection of all the different riders here... man, I seen EVERRYTHING, and very little problems running any of them.

Funny thing... at track days I go to, michelin reps say dunlop sucks for reasons A, B and C, and next track day, Dunlop rep says michelin sucks for reasons D, E, and F. I'm tired fo them all:

ALL BEST OF BREED TIRES ARE ALL REALLY GOOD AND YOU CAN'T GO WRONG. Chances are we will never outride a tires abilities on the street anyway. MAYBE you could on a track, but it would take a lot

so, the answer is : don't sweat it! run what ya want



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I have a favor to ask of someone putting on a new set of M3's. I measured my tread depth yesterday and at 1600 miles I have about .12" (Roughly) of tread left in the middle of the rear tire. I neglected to measure it when new. Just trying to gauge rate of wear.
 
I have a favor to ask of someone putting on a new set of M3's. I measured my tread depth yesterday and at 1600 miles I have about .12" (Roughly) of tread left in the middle of the rear tire. I neglected to measure it when new. Just trying to gauge rate of wear.
I can do that for ya I'll measure mine when I get them Thursday.


Is yours .12 to the wear bar or total?

.12 = 4/32 , you are probably more like 3/32
if you did not measure to the wear bar.

BT015 and BT014 are 7/32nds new...
a few of the OEs are 6/32nds.

Sounds like your tire is about half gone?
 
I don't feel measuring tread depth vs milage is a valid test of wear. The surface type you are riding on can make a huge difference in wear. Not to mention rider weight, PSI, driving style, temperature, HP, sunspots... just my opinion
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I have a favor to ask of someone putting on a new set of M3's. I measured my tread depth yesterday and at 1600 miles I have about .12" (Roughly) of tread left in the middle of the rear tire. I neglected to measure it when new. Just trying to gauge rate of wear.
I can do that for ya I'll measure mine when I get them Thursday.


Is yours .12 to the wear bar or total?  

.12 = 4/32 , you are probably more like 3/32
if you did not measure to the wear bar.

BT015 and BT014 are 7/32nds new...
a few of the OEs are 6/32nds.

Sounds like your tire is about half gone?
Now I should be clear that my reading is "approximate"! I didn't have a tread depth gauge so I took a large set of calipers (no dial) and just measured flat across the grooves as close to center as possible at what appeared to be the deepest part of the tread not the wear indicator. If I think about it tonight I will post a pic of this and also measure to the wear indicator. I couldn't find anything on Metzelers site to give tread depth?

I would estimate that the tire is less than halfway gone. In my estimation It has much more tread left on it than my Bridgestone had at this mileage. My B-stone was flattening out markedly and the edges looked like I hit em with a cheese grater by now as well. I got right at 3000 (to the wear bars) out of it so I think it should go about 4000. I still can't figure out how guys are getting the mileage I see posted on here from time to time.
 
I've got a question for y'all... I see people are using Pilot Powers and the M3s.  But, when I went to the Honda Hoot, I spoke with the Michelin folks since they were giving away swag and I use PPs on my CBR600F4i.  I asked if I could use PPs on my 'busa and was told emphatically NO.  Use only the HPX on the heavier bikes.  I presently have a set of M1s on my 'busa and they feel "squishy" to me if that makes any sense.  I did not purchase the "P" version that Metzler lists for the 'busa, I just grabbed a set at Cycle Gear and put them on (I have a NoMar changer which I love).  Should I have bought the "P?"  But then I note there is no "P" version shown for the M3s?
rock.gif
 Arrrrghhhhhh!  WTF do I do?  Any advice is welcome.
Thanks
Steve
I've used Pilot Powers for over a year now. Not one problem.

I love the triangular profile because it makes the bike feel "lighter" to lean back and forth. I also run 180/55s.

I think I'm going to try conti's sport attacks 190/<span style='font-size:17pt;line-height:100%'>55</span>. More rubber/larger footprint at full lean angles makes me a happy busa guy
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Is yours .12 to the wear bar or total?

.12 = 4/32 , you are probably more like 3/32
if you did not measure to the wear bar.

BT015 and BT014 are 7/32nds new...
a few of the OEs are 6/32nds.

Sounds like your tire is about half gone?
Total tread depth was just over .120"
As measured to the wear bars about.105"-.110"

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I don't feel measuring tread depth vs milage is a valid test of wear.  The surface type you are riding on can make a huge difference in wear.  Not to mention rider weight, PSI, driving style, temperature, HP, sunspots...     just my opinion  
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Tread depth/mileage relation is a valid test to get an accurate overall expected avg IF you obtain various mile per 32nd records, plus recorded psi for the life of the tire to obtain accurate mileage life.

But again, this is avg. and the only number you should be concerned with is the tire mileage you are getting on your bike with the way you ride based on numerous variables.

If you get shorter than expected tire life from the first two tires you tried you will likely experience it again on all the future tires if all the riding factors like suspension, low/high psi, load weight, how aggressive you ride, etc. stay constant.
 
bigoltool , I measured my M3 some Pilot Powers and Qualifiers...all are about 6/32nd to the wear bars , 7/32nds total.

About an inch from the outside edge on each one was 4-5/32nds on each tire.

So overall , these tires have pretty much the same thickness of usable tread when new.
 
I am juuust about done with my M3 rear, and I will have about 2900 miles on it when it gets replaced. Now keep in mind, I never do burn outs or any squidly #### like that, mostly aggressive twistys and a little bit of commuting to work. No flat spot to speak of, just worn out. Pilot Powers are next, we'll see how they hold up.
 
bigoltool , I measured my M3 some Pilot Powers and Qualifiers...all are about 6/32nd to the wear bars , 7/32nds total.

About an inch from the outside edge on each one was 4-5/32nds on each tire.  

So overall , these tires have pretty much the same thickness of usable tread when new.
That about fits my best estimate. I figure these will be done at about 4000 miles. 33% improvement over my BT56 so not going to complain!
 
I am juuust about done with my M3 rear, and I will have about 2900 miles on it when it gets replaced. Now keep in mind, I never do burn outs or any squidly #### like that, mostly aggressive twistys and a little bit of commuting to work. No flat spot to speak of, just worn out. Pilot Powers are next, we'll see how they hold up.
That is some pretty darn respectable milage on a busa rear if you ask me. I thin the M3's will be finding their way onto my bike next... Assuming of course I keep riding.
 
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