Problem:
Brakes are fine when bike is not moving. After making couple of turns, manually pushing bike, then brake is lost pressure. I have to pump it couple of times to get brake bites again.
Noticed brake pads are 1mm tick, so has to be replaced.
Is it possible that bad brake pads (warn out) are making this kind of behavior?
Likely a bad brake line.
The turning of the bars moves the lines.
If a line has a small hole, that movement will help it leak.
Also, I had a Bking and the clutch would not stay bled. Long story short, it was the line.
There was no visible fluid leak at any time.
After a MC and slave cylinder rebuild, and still no pressure, I put a new ss line on...fixed.
So, hard as it is to belive, Yes, a brake line can have an air leak, yet no fluid escape, as the stock rubber lines are multi-layered.
I didn't belive it after until multiple bleeding attempts and finally the new line either.
If the brakes fade away and don't come back, with no lever pressure, and you've rebuilt the MC and bled it correctly, it's a brake line/hose.
If it's a bent rotor, the bend will push piston(s) back too far with each rotation, requiring the brakes to be pumped to push the piston back out(since the pads will not currently be contacting the rotor).
But, as soon as the bend contacts the pads again, the brakes fade as the piston was again pushed too far back into the caliper.
Lever pressure will always build back though.
So, if the wheel doesn't turn, and the brake lever feel is good, roll the bike a couple inches, and the brakes still bite good, the rotor(s) may be bent.
Remove the calipers, spin the wheel, and watch them. A dial indicator attached is the correct way to test.
If you simply lose lever pressure, it does not pump back up, the MC is rebuilt, and there is no visible fluid leaks anywhere, then it's the brake line(s).