My PIAA project

full

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ok, tomorrow i'll mount the total look PIAA on my busa  
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<u>H7 : PIAA Super White & White 4300K
H9 : PIAA Xtreme Force 4700K
LED : PIAA Xtreme White Quattro LED</u>


in pictures :

H7 :
mini-PIAA%20H7%20et%20LED3.jpg


H9 :
mini-PIAA%20H9%20003.jpg


LED :
mini-PIAA%20H7%20et%20LED2.jpg


see you for pictures on my busa  
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I usually add those to all my bikes. I ride with my brights on during the day. Really makes the cars move over on the interstate.
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I've seen a few time on the board here that PIAA's run a bit hot and cause melting issues in the light assymbly which is why people run silverstars if anything other than stock...
 
You aint seen nuffn' til you've own a HID. HID's run cooler,consume 20 watts less energy than stock halogen bulbs and are brighter.
The PIAA's would probably be my second choice if I were on a tight budget and didn't have the cheese for a HID kit. But knowing myself I would probably go down to my local salvage yard and pull a HID system from a car instead (hint hint). Where there's will, there's a way!
 
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120w bulb=melted connector/wirings/headlight
I agree, a 120w bulb would be extremely problematic (over time) using stock connectors/wiring.

Fortunately, full must know this, and that's why he did not install a "120-watt" H9, or the "110-watt" H7. Look closely, and you'll see these figures are the PIAA marketing hype; the actual power consumption is the typical 55-watt H7, and 65-watt H9 bulbs.

The reason they appear "brighter" is the way that PIAA designs these blue coated bulbs, which removes a certain frequency from the light emitted. In this case, the yellow-orange-red end of the spectrum is filtered, letting the white to blue color temps through. To get more light out of a filtered bulb, they have to pump a lot more light through the filter (this is known as being "over-driven": heating the filaments hotter than normal). This typically results in an abbreviated lifespan (compared to non-overdriven bulbs), particularly in motorcycle applications, as full will discover in the coming months.
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Osram Silverstars and the Philips (Germany) X-Treme Power H7's are not the same thing, they are not over-driven, and not blue filtered. They are very efficient, and put out near the maximum lumen level of a halogen bulb can physically produce. They look whiter than standard, but not as white as the PIAA bulbs, because they get their color purely from output level, not from filtering.

If I were going to stay with halogen technology (which I am not), there is only one brand of H7s I would consider using:

Philips X-Treme Power H7 from powerbulbs.com

Mind you, the above bulbs are not cheap; the Good $hit never is.....


<div class="iF-Passage"><div class="QUOTEHEAD">Quote:[/Quote]<div class="QUOTE clearfix"><span class="quoteBegin"> </span>
xenon/hid is today... i´ll go for 55W xenon/hid[/quote]

This statement may suggest a mis-understanding of the nature of true HID versus these marketing-speak "xenon/hid" bulbs. True H7-based HID systems (utilizing a DS2 bulb) typically consume 35-watts (once fully up to temp). There is no halogen bulb that is a true HID, regardless of what is printed on the package.

A true HID system is the only way to fly if the rider is seriously interested in being able to see far down the road at night, at speed. Halogen technology - even these over-driven bulbs - don't hold a candle to true HID. I have been using these HID conversion systems in all my LD Rally bikes for almost 10 years now, both in H4 and H7 applications. When done right, these are a staggering improvement over anything a halogen bulb can produce. The biggest single factor in a successful HID deployment is that the DS2 bulb MUST achieve the *exact*, *same* focal point as the stock setup. If the arcing "filament" in a HID bulb is not placed exactly so, the results are a horrible amount of "scatter and glare" that gives HID conversion kits the bad rap that they have among the NHTSA nannies, and it has the potential to eventfully result in adverse legislation.
 
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