WildMonkey
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My 'Busa is an '05 model, and I need to identify a coil wire OR an engine rpm (tach) feed that I can tap into. Can any of my 'busa brothers help me out ? Thank's in advance....
Steve.
Steve.
Need a little Wiring help...
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listen to the professor
WildMonkey
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Thank's professor ! BTW... Nice pic in your avatar !
I assume that a coil feed wire would be the same as the tach feed wire, for the purpose of wiring this cruise control ? Also, could you tell me a good 12v switched wire to pull some juice from as well ?
Steve.
I assume that a coil feed wire would be the same as the tach feed wire, for the purpose of wiring this cruise control ? Also, could you tell me a good 12v switched wire to pull some juice from as well ?
Steve.
Which CC are you installing?
WildMonkey
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Hi BusaWhipped...
I'm installing the Audiovox model #CCS 100. I purchased it from a fellow board member (PipeFighter248) and am finally getting around to installing it after almost 2 years ! LoL...
Steve.
I'm installing the Audiovox model #CCS 100. I purchased it from a fellow board member (PipeFighter248) and am finally getting around to installing it after almost 2 years ! LoL...
Steve.
Cool. That's the same one I have. I don't have my bike, shop manual or the CC install guide with me here, but lets see if we can get through this.
I'm assuming you are going to install the vacuum canister on the right rear like pipefighter's install. The CC install has a power connection coming from the cannister that the manual says to connect to the hot side of the brake switch, and the disconnect wire that connects to the other side of the brake switch. Run both of them around the back of the trunk and connect them at bike side of the brake light connector. The power connects to the running light wire and the disconnect connects to the brake light. I can't help you with the wire colors without the books or bike for reference. The black/white wire is the ground. You can use a test light light to figure out which is the running light and which is the brake light wire on the bike.
Up front, it pulls less than 3 amps, so you can tap power from the high beam circuit. You want to make sure you are on the protected side of the fuse when you splice in. Once again, I can't help with the wire colors without the books. Maybe someone can help out with the wire color for this one.
I'm assuming you are going to install the vacuum canister on the right rear like pipefighter's install. The CC install has a power connection coming from the cannister that the manual says to connect to the hot side of the brake switch, and the disconnect wire that connects to the other side of the brake switch. Run both of them around the back of the trunk and connect them at bike side of the brake light connector. The power connects to the running light wire and the disconnect connects to the brake light. I can't help you with the wire colors without the books or bike for reference. The black/white wire is the ground. You can use a test light light to figure out which is the running light and which is the brake light wire on the bike.
Up front, it pulls less than 3 amps, so you can tap power from the high beam circuit. You want to make sure you are on the protected side of the fuse when you splice in. Once again, I can't help with the wire colors without the books. Maybe someone can help out with the wire color for this one.
Yes. And you can connect it at the CPU side if the wire with is much easier to access than the coil side.
WildMonkey
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Hey BW,
I should also mention that I have a custom undertail, with.. you guessed it, LED stop/tail/turn sigs. There was something mentioned in one of the threads started about this install mentioning an resistor which should be used ? I did actually use the search function on the board before I started this thread !
Steve.
I should also mention that I have a custom undertail, with.. you guessed it, LED stop/tail/turn sigs. There was something mentioned in one of the threads started about this install mentioning an resistor which should be used ? I did actually use the search function on the board before I started this thread !
Steve.
I just had an underdtail installed. The CC isn't working since I got the bike back from the shop that did the install. I suspected the LEDs, but haven't had time to check it out.
WildMonkey
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Just a bump for more info. !!!!!
Steve.
Steve.
On the bike side of the tail light connector, attach the wire that the manual says to attach to the hot side of the brake light to the Blue wire (driving light) for switched power. Attach the wire the manual says to attach the switched side of the brake switch to the Red wire (brake light) for the brake shut off. Make sure your brake light switches are adjusted so that the light comes on with light pressure on the brake pedal/lever.
Up front, pull your switched power from the yellow wire coming from the fuse block. There are 2 yellow wires there, one on the hot size, one on the fused side. The CC has an inline fuse, so you could use the hot wire, but I went with the fused side.
Up front, pull your switched power from the yellow wire coming from the fuse block. There are 2 yellow wires there, one on the hot size, one on the fused side. The CC has an inline fuse, so you could use the hot wire, but I went with the fused side.
You'll need to put a resistor between the blue wire on your C/Cand brakeline wire if you a have a LED brake light. I forget what size you'll need, For example (test puroposes), using a turn signal, connect all three wires together, the hot side of the turn signal wire to the brakeline and blue wire on the C/C. Then ground the negative side of the turn signal somwhere on the bike. WHen you press the brakelever the brake light and turn signal will light up (showing a load) which will cause the C/C to deactivate. For some reason theres not enough resistance when only using LED brakes light. Use a volt meter to determine the resistance on the turn signal you've used to determine what size you'll need.
Thanks Rhythm. Since I have LED turn signals out back too, I guess I can use the front turn signal to figure out the resistance.
WildMonkey
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Thank's Much Rythym & BusaWhipped ! I will be posting back in a couple of days to let you know how it turns out ! I can't wait to get this sorted out & be riding in a day or 2 !
Steve.
Steve.
I think I have the resistor figured out. I haven't had tome to install and test yet. I think a 10 ohm, 25 watt resistor should do the job. 25 watts is a bit overkill, but the overcapacity it should keep it cool. Hopefully my calculations are correct.
WildMonkey
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Thank's All ! I will be posting up the finished details in a couple days !
Steve.
Steve.
WildMonkey
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Just In Case anybody is following this thread, here is an update ! After taking the weekend off, and working on the bike the last 2 nights after my day gig, I have had to order a complete new AudioVox C/C assembly. I can't say if it was bad when I bought it or not, but as it stands right now, the vacum/servo unit is bad. I have ran through the wiring on this install about 50 times, and everything checks out right up to where the wiring plugs into the servo, where it appears the proper circuits are not being energized to open all 3 of the plungers which would allow full vacum to be applied to the cable which holds the throttle position at the set speed. I paid 40 bucks extra for 2nd day delivery, so maybe I will be able to get this project finished over the weekend...
Steve.
Steve.
Keep us updated.(WildMonkey @ Sep. 26 2007,17:42) Just In Case anybody is following this thread, here is an update ! After taking the weekend off, and working on the bike the last 2 nights after my day gig, I have had to order a complete new AudioVox C/C assembly. I can't say if it was bad when I bought it or not, but as it stands right now, the vacum/servo unit is bad. I have ran through the wiring on this install about 50 times, and everything checks out right up to where the wiring plugs into the servo, where it appears the proper circuits are not being energized to open all 3 of the plungers which would allow full vacum to be applied to the cable which holds the throttle position at the set speed. I paid 40 bucks extra for 2nd day delivery, so maybe I will be able to get this project finished over the weekend...
Steve.
Steve I guarantee that it was working when it was taken off of my bike and shipped to you.
Let us know if the new one works out.
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