Got the cruise control working with the LEDs.
A little recap: Turns out that the CC grounds through the brake lights. When you apply the brakes, the power sent to the bulbs breaks the ground and turns it off. Well, with the LEDs, it cannot make the ground. Simple solution, or so I thought, is to put a resistor in parallel to the LEDs and trick the CC into thinking the light bulbs were still there.
First hurdle. The shop wired the undertail wrong. They grounded the tail lights and brake lights through the turn signals. So first order of business, rewire the undertail correctly.
With that done, time to figure out what resistor to put in there. Trusty multi meter shows the resistence through the factory unit to be 7.6 ohms and 10 watts. So off to the elecronics store I go. Of course there wasn't a 7.6 ohm resistor, so following normal convention, I got the closest larger size, 10 ohms 20 watt resistor. I made a test rig so I could plug in the resistor. Off I went down the road and...nothing. The cruise control does not work. ggggrrrrr. Turns out the CC is very sensitive to the resistance: 7.6 ohms works, but 10 ohms is too much.
So off I go to the electronics store again. This time I get a 5.1 ohm 10 watt resistor. Got home, unsoldered the 10 ohm resistor, soldered on the 5.1 ohm resistor into the test rig, plugged it into the connector, and took the bike out. Turned on the CC, pressed the set button, and wha-la. Cruise control working perfectly again. However, the resistor is getting getting very very hot, very very quickly. If I have time tomorrow it will be back to the electronics store again to see if I can find a higher wattage resistor in the ohm range I need. The higer wattage will run cooler, but I don't know if that will effect the operations of the cruise control. More to come.
Here's a picture of the working resistor in the test rig.
