Need help with a Voltage Regulator problem

[Sidebike]

I have a 2007 Hayabusa bought with less than 5,000 miles and currently has 24,836. About a month ago the starter relay fuse popped - traced the problem to an internal short in the voltage regulator. Because OEM new ones are pretty expensive, I bought a used OEM from eBay. Bike ran and charged well since, but yesterday while riding the battery went dead. Stopped and the bike just wouldn't start. I once again traced the problem to the voltage regulator but it wasn't the same problem as the first time - no blown starter relay fuse, This time it is just not charging the battery and tested bad using a multimeter. I know I bought used but wonder if the first and second failure (although the cause of the failure is different) might be a result of another component in the electrical system causing the voltage regulators to fail. Or was the second failure just a fluke and possibly attributed to buying used. Also, even though the price of the one offered at Powerhouse Motorcycles is very similar to OEM, is it still the consensus that the one from Powerhouse is the better choice?

 

[c10]

Buying used elect components is always a shoot in the dark . You have no idea the loads / millage it was used .
The Hayabusa is the most hacked on motorcycle for elect add on's . From LED"S to stereos , and so much other equipment not needed . Most are bubble gum , and elect tape jobs .

Buy new , and test other equipment before use of new regulator . Part may be expensive , but its cheaper than a new bike or payments .

 

[Dopey]

I have a 2007 Hayabusa bought with less than 5,000 miles and currently has 24,836. About a month ago the starter relay fuse popped - traced the problem to an internal short in the voltage regulator. Because OEM new ones are pretty expensive, I bought a used OEM from eBay. Bike ran and charged well since, but yesterday while riding the battery went dead. Stopped and the bike just wouldn't start. I once again traced the problem to the voltage regulator but it wasn't the same problem as the first time - no blown starter relay fuse, This time it is just not charging the battery and tested bad using a multimeter. I know I bought used but wonder if the first and second failure (although the cause of the failure is different) might be a result of another component in the electrical system causing the voltage regulators to fail. Or was the second failure just a fluke and possibly attributed to buying used. Also, even though the price of the one offered at Powerhouse Motorcycles is very similar to OEM, is it still the consensus that the one from Powerhouse is the better choice?

Be sure to test the stator before replacing it again, alot of times the stator will cause the regulator to fail. In the past 3 months I've had a gsxr600 and a zx10r that I ride with that had the stator fail but because they could see it charging when revved they didn't wanna believe me till I showed them it was grounded out.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

As said by the above esteemed members, you need to look at the electrical charging system as a whole, starting at the stator and ending at the battery.
Test the stator output as per the factory service manual, check all connectors and wiring up to the reg/rectifier, fit a new Powerhouse or OEM reg/rectifier, check voltage output and battery condition.
Get yourself a good quality battery tender and always connect it and run it while bike is parked up.
DO NOT over load the electrical system with gadgets and add ons etc, and when adding any extra load to the system, calculate the current draw when bike is running, and also when bike ignition is switched OFF.
Look after your electrical system and it will look after you.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Be sure to test the stator before replacing it again, alot of times the stator will cause the regulator to fail. In the past 3 months I've had a gsxr600 and a zx10r that I ride with that had the stator fail but because they could see it charging when revved they didn't wanna believe me till I showed them it was grounded out.

We had a SV1000 at work recently with damaged flywheel/rotor magnets.
One of the magnets had broken up and the bits were lying at the bottom of the cases and stuck to any steel or ferrous metals.
When initially tested, ( the bike came in because the battery was periodically going flat) the AC output from the stator was about 20% lower than spec, but the same on all 3 phases, so the technician thought nothing of it and just went ahead and ordered a new voltage reg/rectifier.
When he fitted the new reg, no change in the output, still no charging.
It was only when he removed the stator cover he discovered the broken magnet on the rotor.
Ooooops.
Lesson learned.

 

[Dopey]

We had a SV1000 at work recently with damaged flywheel/rotor magnets.
One of the magnets had broken up and the bits were lying at the bottom of the cases and stuck to any steel or ferrous metals.
When initially tested, ( the bike came in because the battery was periodically going flat) the AC output from the stator was about 20% lower than spec, but the same on all 3 phases, so the technician thought nothing of it and just went ahead and ordered a new voltage reg/rectifier.
When he fitted the new reg, no change in the output, still no charging.
It was only when he removed the stator cover he discovered the broken magnet on the rotor.
Ooooops.
Lesson learned.

The gixxer I just did was similar and in was in spec for output somehow but when I pulled it I found it burned up. The guy with the zx argued with me because by the book it said that at idle it had what it should o told him how to test ot fir being grounded because the battery was going dead on him and he's actually replacing it as I write this. And of course not so much as thanks fron him, normally I'd just go take the busa and cut him down a little but the bike he's running is built as far as it can go without turbo and showed 205 onthe dyno and it's 400 lube Lbs wet so I'll have to find a different approach for him

 

[Sidebike]

I am sure the voltage regulator needs to be replaced but on many of your recommendations I checked the stator. I have found that there are no shorts to ground which is great. What I did find is that when testing resistance all three wires registered 0.7 My Clymer Suzuki Shop manual says that resistance should be between 0.2 - 0.4 which seems like a very small variance. I watched a Rocky Mountain YouTube video on how to check stators and on their particular stator it had a variance of between 0.1 - 1.0 and it checked out at .6 This seems like a more reasonable variance compared to what is printed in my manual. Is it possible that the table on page 288 of my Clymer manual could be wrong? Or does my 0.7 readings mean that my stator is truly bad and needs replacing?

 

[Sidebike]

Just checked the stator while running. At idle it is putting out between 22-24 Volts and at 5,000 RPM it bounces around between 80-90 Volts. Seems good to me but still wondering about my last post where the resistance registered 0.7 So, what do you guys think? Is my stator fine and I just need a new voltage regulator or do you see something not right with my stator test results?