Lifestudent
Registered
I'm going to start the work tomorrow on it. Thank you for the advice and help. I do a lot of work on bikes on a pretty regular basis but have never had the opportunity to break down a motor or front suspension, but I guess theres a first time for everything.If it was me,
1) I would support the bike on stands under the front area of the motor,
2) remove the front wheel,
3) refit the axle into the forks
4) remove the handlebar top plate, to gain access to the fork caps hex head.
5) unscrew the fork caps and get a light so you can see the oil level in the forks. The caps will not come away in your hand, they are connected to the dampening rod.
6) grab the axle and attempt to slide the fork stanchions up the sliders,
If the forks do NOT slide and are stuck, you most likely have a bent stanchion of damaged slider in the bush.
You could try to slide each fork leg with the axle removed, to find if it's one that is seized, or if it's both.
if the forks are NOT stuck and slide up freely, then the problem causing the rigidity is in the dampening cartridge . . . OR . . the spring is to heavy for the fork application.. . OR the oil level is too high causing hydraulic lock.
To accurately set the oil level, the spring needs to be removed and the fork compressed to the bottom. But with leaving the spring in place, you can get some idea of where the level is at. If it's close ( less than 2 inches,) to the top of the slider with the forks compressed, it's too high.
Try to remove some of the oil with a thin hose on a large syringe (get a syringe from a animal Vet practice, 60cc or larger) slide the hose down the side of the spring and start sucking it out.
The level should be 4 inches from the top, without the spring, so allow a little more for the area the spring displaces, maybe 1/4" or so.
Get both forks to the same level, screw the caps back in place and put the front wheel back on.
Take her off the stands and try the fork action, any movement??
Let us know how it goes. Good luck!