need opinions on this

For goodness sake, take it to your dealer and build a relationship with the folks you may need down the road. Sure it will cost a few more bucks but your dealer has all that stuff you may need like insurance in case the building burns down while your bike is inside and mechanics whom need to make a living as well. If your bike is stolen or damaged while at the dealership, you are covered. If it comes up missing while at some shade tree mechanic's place, you are on your own! Be Smart!

Don't take your bike to a guy you don't know who advertises on Graig's List and works out of his garage. Simply not a good idea! JMHO!
 
For goodness sake, take it to your dealer and build a relationship with the folks you may need down the road. Sure it will cost a few more bucks but your dealer has all that stuff you may need like insurance in case the building burns down while your bike is inside and mechanics whom need to make a living as well. If your bike is stolen or damaged while at the dealership, you are covered. If it comes up missing while at some shade tree mechanic's place, you are on your own! Be Smart!

Don't take your bike to a guy you don't know who advertises on Graig's List and works out of his garage. Simply not a good idea! JMHO!

OK Tuf is right, Just take it to a dealer or certified shop. Don't cut corners,
I know I said he's just trying to make a living....but is he insured, bonded, etc? that's important cause if anything happens It will be you holding the bag.
 
Why to adjust them?I will do that after 30k miles.Have you past that limit?Everyone here ho tried to do that before 30k, just found out that he was in the limits
 
Well I have 20k on it now. The one dealer who I would take it to said that the valves need to be looked at 17.5k. The shop also said that its rars for them to need any adj, but in some cases they do need it. This dealer has done me right in the past, so I have no reason to think otherwise.
 
Not everyone in this world is a crook. And in these economic times, everyone is just trying to get by. I would check the guy out, get a feel for him. It's a gut decision, but If everything feels OK, I wouldn't hesitate. There's lots of backyard mechanics out there that are far better qualified than some of the twits they have working in your local dealer. I would definately and politley let him know I knew the exact milage so he knew it wasn't OK for a joy ride.......I garauntee he won't be insured, but in the end, money in his pocket, and extra money in yours= good business.

Just my .02
 
I think only you will be able to decide on his character. It is your bike and how much you trust someone with it is totally up to you.
 
Are you sure the valves need to be shimmed? I have seen Busas go for 40,000 miles and up before a shim job needs to be done. I have also seen them needing work at 10,000 miles. Do you hear any rattling in the top of the motor when it is cold and goes away when the bike warms up? ----Just a little secret,the ZX11 and the Hayabusa use the same diameter shims if the Suzuki dealers doesnt have them in stock.
 
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Here is some pics of Busa shims. That is a ZX11 shim on the left. They are the same thickness at 230 but as you can see the ZX11 shim says 2.30.
MVC-003F-7.jpg

MVC-004F-3.jpg

MVC-005F-2.jpg



Also Suzuki uses what I call half thickness shims from the factory that cant be purchased. To give you an example

230
232
235
238
240
242
245
248
250

Here are shim sizes. You can buy

230
235
240
245
250.

You cannot get these sizes unless you have them in stock from doing mulitple shim jobs
232
238
242
248


Not have the half size shims is not a problem,just measure and make up the difference with the next size shim. **example-if the measurement requires a 238 size shim just use a 240. Also a good mechanic will measure the thickness of the shim to make sure it is within spec.
 
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Its hard to trust anyone with your bike I know I couldnt. Always go with your first gut feeling...........
 
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