new 0mile busa - what to do now

Liquidous

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finally after months of searching and waiting, i got lucky and closed a deal on a 04 busa yesterday.

want to get some opinions on what kind of things to do right away.

first on my list

1) 0mile bike , uncranked taken to a dyno for power breakin method
2) remove tre restriction (what do i need to get? from where?)  
3) kickstand dremel deepre notches
4) replace stock chain with better chain (what chain? - this is going to be a street bike )
5) im eventually going to put on some yoshi's which means ill need a PC

figured it im going to be at the dyno to break in the bike, if i have a chance to put all this on before the break in, then ill be breaking in the bike from 0 miles with all that stuff on, with perfect opportunity to get it tuned on the dyno with the PC, and get some numbers.

as for break in ive read motomans power break i method, any advice on this. ive already found a harley davidson shop that is wililng to let me bring in this bike and another suzuki boulevard c50 to break in.  i didn't ask them if i can be the one to ride it on the dyno - so they probably expect they will. but how will they if they don't know what to do?  

anything else anyone can think of im overlooking.

what about changing the oil , i heard doing it 3 times in the first 50 miles after and during the break in is normal and preferred.

thanks all



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ps - do we have a page or location that shows the majority of our vendors?
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1) Not really sure about the power break in method
2)Save your money how often are you going to go over 186
3)Good one
4)Stock chain is good to 300+ hp save your money
5)By Yoshis do you mean slip ons if so save your money on the PC wont need it.

Next mods should be to remove the retard stickers and reflectors, then decide what youre gonna use the bike for drag racing, track work, just to putt putt around town, and then decide what to do next
 
1) 0mile bike , uncranked taken to a dyno for power breakin method
2) remove tre restriction (what do i need to get? from where?)  
3) kickstand dremel deepre notches
4) replace stock chain with better chain (what chain? - this is going to be a street bike )
5) im eventually going to put on some yoshi's which means ill need a PC
1) Power break-in doesn't require a dyno. Can't find the recent post that talks about it, but I'll keep checkin.
2) Varying opinions on the TRE, but if you don't plan on exceeding 186 probably not necessary. Also, if you plan to do a full exhaust with PC and custom map it's not needed.
3) Definitely mod that kickstand
4) Waste of money to replace the stock chain when it hasn't been used. It's good for lots of hp and miles
5) If only slip-ons, no PC is necessary. If full system then you will need it.

You may also think about a new windscreen.
 
yes doublebubble windscreen is on my list.
okay about the chain, ill keep it. the only reason i mentioned it was because i read a lot of people having problems with the chain and needing to tighten it. haven't heard about tensile strength problems tho. again that probably goes with higher hp machines.

as for the exhaust, i most likely will go with full exhaust so a PC is required.

bike is gonna be a street bike, weekend fun tourer.
who knows, i might get bigger balls as my experience increases with this. so i might test teh 186. i figured if i was going to be on the dyno to break in, i might as well get some hp numbers from it, and having the TRE would let me go pased that.. at the same time, im not sure (even after the power break in method) if its good to take a 0 mile bike and smack it up in the first 30 miles to 190+mph. dyno or not.

i still need to read up a little on the breakin method. motoman makes it seem like it will take 30 minutes and then you're done. only reason im going dyno is because i don't want to deal with it on the road right now (weather and lack of gear).

thanks for your opinions.
 
Glad you FINALLY found yourself a bike.
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Congrats
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(wasn't sure if you were serious this time, so I stayed out of it)

The chain stretching problems that I've read about on here have mostly been caused by people doing rolling burnouts. This causes a lot of chain stretch. Chains breaking are usually caused by severe launches, or rolling burnouts that end in the bike hooking up suddenly and the chain isn't designed for that.

You can still ride it hard without putting that kind of stress on the chain.
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hey stkr00. yes i was always serious, even the times i may not have seemed serious, i was. i just couldnt pull the deal together. its been a long journey. i kept reading of guys on the forums getting their bikes and people like you responding with those beer cheering smiley. now its my turn.
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thanks for your chain info.
 
I think you should RIDE IT
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Modify it as you see fit after you know what you've got
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Here's a link for the <a href="http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm">Mototune Break-In<a>:
 
Absolute first mods have to be taking off the reflectors and stickers and trimming the mud flap. Have to make sure she is looking beautiful first before anything else.
 
hey stkr00.  yes i was always serious, even the times i may not have seemed serious, i was. i just couldnt pull the deal together. its been a long journey.  i kept reading of guys on the forums getting their bikes and people like you responding with those beer cheering smiley. now its my turn.
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thanks for your chain info.
Like I said...Glad you finally got it.
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Sorry that I was skeptical, but it was like the "boy who cried wolf" this last time.

If you're ever gonna be in South-East Wisconsin, send me a PM. Always good to meet a fellow Busa "OWNER".
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sounds good guys. im with ya on the reflectors.. we need a throw up smiley. to use when talking about stickers and reflectors.
 
1) Not really sure about the power break in method
2)Save your money how often are you going to go over 186
3)Good one
4)Stock chain is good to 300+ hp save your money
5)By Yoshis do you mean slip ons if so save your money on the PC wont need it.

Next mods should be to remove the retard stickers and reflectors, then decide what youre gonna use the bike for drag racing, track work, just to putt putt around town, and then decide what to do next
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I agree with Him, except for the fact of having a PC3 for bolt on's.I have a Pc3 on elenor for a K&N and Yoshi Bolton.... I have run the bike before installing the PC3, but after the PC3... the power delivery is a lot smoother!

Dont know if it has added some HP or not, but it definetly feels a wee bit quicker and smoother. You can do without a PC3, but... I'd rather have one for the smoothness
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hey stkr00.  yes i was always serious, even the times i may not have seemed serious, i was. i just couldnt pull the deal together. its been a long journey.  i kept reading of guys on the forums getting their bikes and people like you responding with those beer cheering smiley. now its my turn.
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Congrads liq.
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As far as mods go, definitely do the kickstand, also get some handy stands if you don't have a stand already. I would recommend and HID kit (light mod) from Xenon King, especially since you are going to be touring. If you are going to be doing some touring you might want to get a rack. A member just got one and it looks good! Also a mod for just looks is the undertail! That mudflag is just plain fugly!

Welcome!

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