New Suzuki branded synthetic oil

Synthetic oils won't make your clutch slip.

I've had experience with car oils that have moly in them causing the clutch on my oil-cooled GS750 to slip.

But now it and and 'busa both have full synthetics and I don't have a problem at all.
 
(mountainmotor @ Nov. 14 2006,06:40) 502SCS,


I think Suzuki recommends 10w-40 and maybe some 10w-50's but most of them to include the Amsoil and Mobil 10w-40 synthetic shears down to a high 30wt in as little as 2k miles . Using 15w-50 synthetics makes for less shear and better shifting over the course of the oil interval .

I  don't subscribe to the theory/rumors of waiting X amount of miles until using synthetic in these bike engines using nikasil bores . I have filled with fresh engine builds and with as little as 200 miles on stock engines without creating oil burners many times now .

I also don't subscribe to that Motomans method of break-in because in the nikasil bores theres not as much of the high honing ledges that can lay over if not scrubbed off which can cause glazing vs iron bores and honing of days past .

Got off topic there but was on my mind  
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Thank you for the reply.
I know it is old hat to most of you but only have one time to get it correct on my new toy. Really want this bike to stay perfect as long as I can.
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(Haelo @ Nov. 14 2006,12:35) Synthetic oils won't make your clutch slip.

I've had experience with car oils that have moly in them causing the clutch on my oil-cooled GS750 to slip.

But now it and and 'busa both have full synthetics and I don't have a problem at all.
+1 I changed to full synthetic AMSOIL after my 600mi service and the dealer said it was recomended since it is a high performance bike. Never once hade any problems and it shiffs alot smoother....06 LE with 4400miles on it now....and I use the OEM Suzuki oil filter.
 
(mountainmotor @ Oct. 31 2006,07:40) I will pick up a quart today and send a sample off if the MSDS shows it's primarily comprised of 1-Decene Homopolymer or has the CAS number noting same .

Here's a donation to this website . It's intended for Hayabusa.org only and I personally don't care to see it lifted and taken elsewhere . This is for our members benefit only as I see it . Whats seen here should stay here IMO . Feel free to take it to suzukihayabusa.org though  
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No 1 decene or dodocene for that matter but I got a sample sent to the lab .

Here you go and I'm not gonna make too much comment in public on this . Private messages like friends talking in the shop yes maybe .

Suzuki 10w-40 Synthetic = about 6 bucks a quart - Made by Sopus products -Shell/Pennzoil

Sodium 2 - trace from another component
Boron 2 - trace from another component
Magnesium 6
Calcium 2142
Phosphorus 868
Zinc 912
Silicone 2
Viscosity @ 100c 14.00

The better the base oils used , the less additive pack thats needed basicaly . Now some companies use the best base oil blends along with the huge additive packs " Maxima is one example ". Need to remember alot of the functional additives cannot be seen through analysis . These would include non multi functional anti-oxidents , anti-corrosion additives and alot more to include either of the two main friction modifiers used in car and racing oils . Of course a bike specific oil will have neither of the two friction modifiers so it does not matter if it's unseen in this one or not since it won't contain them .


Now I don't know who makes this one but it uses some group I and probably it is group I+ along with a larger part group II base oil .

Suzuki 10w-40 mineral oil

Boron 192
Magnesium 22
Calcium 1719
Phosphorus 1123
Zinc 1224
Silicone 22
Viscosity @ 100c 14.03

I have to finish later
 
(mountainmotor @ Nov. 14 2006,09:40) 502SCS,


I think Suzuki recommends 10w-40 and maybe some 10w-50's but most of them to include the Amsoil and Mobil 10w-40 synthetic shears down to a high 30wt in as little as 2k miles . Using 15w-50 synthetics makes for less shear and better shifting over the course of the oil interval .

I  don't subscribe to the theory/rumors of waiting X amount of miles until using synthetic in these bike engines using nikasil bores . I have filled with fresh engine builds and with as little as 200 miles on stock engines without creating oil burners many times now .

I also don't subscribe to that Motomans method of break-in because in the nikasil bores theres not as much of the high honing ledges that can lay over if not scrubbed off which can cause glazing vs iron bores and honing of days past .

Got off topic there but was on my mind  
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Your answer is here
 
So whats the bottem line here? Suzuki syn. any good? should I use it and if so what weight?
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(DR1300R @ Mar. 02 2007,11:29) So whats the bottem line here? Suzuki syn. any good? should I use it and if so what weight?
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Yeah, no kidding. Some of us speak english here! LOL
 
Being a big fan of Mobil1, I had second thoughts but I tried the Suzuki synthetic (15-50) at 6K and so far, it hasn't grenaded  
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I was at a local independant shop today and they were taking in a shipment of this in a 55 gallon drum. Its cheap, about $5.50/quart, and meets JASO MA and API SG in a semi-synthetic formula.

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I was going to finish and talk about base stocks they might be using and such but it would have been another book .

With oils sometimes you get what you pay for , sometimes you don't . To me and in my opinion I think there are better for same price or a tad bit more but fact is some don't ride hard enough , long enough to tear up the cheap oils and what I mean by that is much depends on usage as to what tier oil a guy needs .

Wants a different deal . Want to treat it to the best cause the bikes your pal ... cool too .

With the Suzuki oil you know Zuki engineers put their approval on it so it's not junk . How it works will only be known through analysis .

I am not as big on analysis as some might think . It just drives up operational costs for the typical owner and just tells how the oil is holding up for the most part . So if doing short drains , no need for spending the 12 bucks on a analysis kit .

When a new oil comes out though , one thats not been seen before  , one look at the used oil of one bike with known wear /metalurgical DNA can help many . This oil will need be looked at least once even though trending is the true way . Crazy to analize oil every time though .

The 10w-40 is probably not for the hard ran Busa . 15w-50 for it and warmer climates .

Red05 ,
If I send you a kit , when you drain your oil can you catch a sample and mail it in ?

Thats what it boils down to . A look at it in action and I use Maxima only . Not willing to try this oil myself . Not afraid of the oil , just I know what the Maxima does for me and ain't changing from it ever .

This Zuki oil might be the ticket for many though . Low cost and really easy to find . Right there's a good reason to have it tested after being ran for some time and the offer has been put out for the taker .
 
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