New Swingarm, rear suspension + Brakes

[jay21112]

21.) Organic Rear Brake pads for Brembo P4.24 Rear Caliper (2 pads needed). Again, these had to be shaved down to fit the caliper. If you take a look at later pictures, the rotor is scored a bit from the first unsuccessful shaving session. Again, if you want Brembo, here you go"¦.follow my lead"¦but there are easier ways to get a quality rear braking system"¦

 

[jay21112]

22.) Well if you are going to spend all this money upgrading the hardware, you better upgrade the fluid as well. So short of using Castrol SRF (I think that's the name), Motul RBF 600 Brake Fluid will suffice. Note that the rotor in the background is a Galfer Hayabusa Wave Rotor"¦which will NOT fit with the Brembo rear caliper and yoyodyne bracket. I had to trade this in for a GSXR 1000 Galfer Wave Rotor"¦and had to shave the pads. Buy a Brembo Narrow band and save yourself the trouble.

 

[jay21112]

23.) Here you can see the Yoyodyne Rear GSXR/Hayabusa/TL Caliper Mount. Again, it only fits the Brembo calipers and only fits aftermarket (Square) swingarms. It does, however, take away the rear brake torque arm. -Loss of a half pound. SCORE!

 

[jay21112]

24.) Well, to complete the Brembo Rear braking system, I figured I would buy a Brembo Master Cylinder. So here is the Brembo Rear 13mm bore Billet Brake Master Cylinder with Integral Reservoir. It's a little trick because it actually has the integral reservoir. So I was able to take out the hose and rear reservoir from behind the seat, and now just have this.

 

[jay21112]

25.) To get the master cylinder to hook up to the brake light, I had to purchase one of these: Stainless 10 x 1.00mm Banjo Bolt hydraulic single brake light switch. Again, not a cheap endeavor.

 

[jay21112]

26.) Now to get the master cylinder on the bike was another process. The bolts didn't line up to the bolts on the footpeg bracket, so the shop had to machine a custom bracket. Then they had to take the plunger out of the stock master cylinder and fab it up to the brembo one. In doing so, it lost the part that prevented the pushrod from falling out of the master cylinder if the brake pedal is raised too high. So if you look close you will see a "stopper"￾ above the brake pedal. This isn't ideal because I actually hit the stopper when I hit the brakes. HOWEVER, it actually makes me more conscious of how I modulate the rear brake, and I figure it's actually a good way to help me prevent from mashing on the brake and locking the rear tire"¦.which is never fun. Again, pricey endeavor for just a little added performance. There may be better ways to go, but I chose this.

 

[jay21112]

27.) Now to get the brembo rear brake to bolt up to the caliper I needed special bolts. Yoyodyne had these and had them in titanium (available only when you buy the caliper) so I said what the heck., it's only money right"¦. Yoyodyne M7x1.0x20 Taper Socket Cap Titanium 6Al-4V.

 

[jay21112]

28.) Here is a good shot of the master cylinder on the bike. You can see the brake fluid window here.

 

[jay21112]

29.) Now when you extend your swingarm, you need an extended brake line. I also needed different fitting because of the brembo parts. I decided to go with a Galfer stainless steel rear brake line with black coating and black fittings. You can see it routed through the swingarm here.

 

[jay21112]

30.) I mentioned before that the Hayabusa rotor won't fit with the brembo caliper and yoyodyne bracket. Therefore I had to buy a: Galfer Suzuki GSX-R 1000 220mm Rear Wave Rotor DF339. Looks tiny, doesn't it? Of course it's not THAT much smaller than the regular rotor (what are they 230, and in 08' 240 I think?).

 

[jay21112]

31.) Here is a good pic of the yoyodyne caliper bracket, again powdercoated black.

 

[jay21112]

32.) And a good pic of the Brembo caliper"¦.powdercoated black. I can remember last year when I posted all the mods I did to the front of the bike, and it was all painted red. A few people said it was too much red. I wonder if they will come back and say it's too much black. Oh well, some people just don't get the big picture"¦

 

[jay21112]

33.) So to lower the bike I got the Ohlins adjustable shock, but I figured I might as well help the process along with a pair of: Schnitzracing Stainless Steel fully adjustable lowering links.

 

[jay21112]

34.) Now changing the length of the swingarm also changes the weight transfer. The Ohlins shock can be used to correct the imbalance, but again, to help transfer the weight rearward I bought a: Linkpro Adjustable suspension linkage. This baby was fricken expensive (like most other things that went on the bike this time). Hopefully it was worth it.

 

[jay21112]

35.) Here is all the "Ride-height adjusters."￾ I didn't set them, so I couldn't tell you how they set them up to lower the ride height and transfer the weight rearward, but hopefully they did everything correctly.

 

[jay21112]

36.) A look from the other side. Man I would have loved to paint that ENTIRE Ohlins shock black. The shop wasn't having any of that. I wish Ohlins made a black shock"¦Ohlins are you out there?

 

[jay21112]

37.) YAY! I finally got rid of the ticking time bomb that was the stock kickstand! Say hello to the: SpencerCycle Billet Adjustable kickstand w/ Hayabusa logo engraved. "Billet"￾ means expensive, but "Adjustable"￾ means worth it. The bike still seems to sit a little too straight up, but I think it may just be my paranoia.

 

[jay21112]

38.) And there she is powedercoated"¦.black. Yup, black.

 

[jay21112]

39.) And here it is"¦in all it's glory: The Ohlins 46PRXLS rear shock. I can't be the only person in the world who has been trained to think that Ohlins is the end-all-be all in suspensions. Someone else out there must be paying homage to the Ohlins gods as well. Believe me, I was quite excited to put this on the bike. For those of you who lost your instruction booklet (like I did"¦or rather the shop did on me): To adjust this baby:
-Spring pre-load (Clockwise turns on remote hydraulic adjuster for harder adjustment).
-Rebound damper (Adjuster wheel on piston shaft above the end bracket: clockwise stiffens).
-Low speed compression damper (Slotted center screw on reservoir: clockwise stiffens).
-High speed compression damper (Hexagon screw on reservoir: clockwise stiffens).
-Ride height pretty self explanatory.

 

[jay21112]

40.) Here is a pic of the shock on the bike. Can you spot Waldo? He is right near the spring pre-load adjuster. Can you spot that?