oil change and servicing the bike in general

[TheoDio Deus Ex Machina]

Good day!

Probably has been discussed several times in the past, but Ill give a try:

I'm new to the hayabusa, I have done some maintenance and service on my previous bike(Honda VTR1000 firestorm which has no fairings) but does it worth it having her serviced on the dealer?? Or try on my own: for example oil+filter change?

The bike is almost new shinny black and I dont want to scratch her o something. So can I do this by myself or I'll probably scratch her?? I'm concerned about the plastics the most. And will I be needing back wheel stand?>

 

[nosbig]

Do it yourself. No one is going to be as carefully with your baby as you are. You don't have to have a stand but it sure is nice. Look at it this way, because of the money you save by not taking it to the dealer your stand is free.

 

[E Zurcher]

So "new shiny black" I'm guessing it's a gen 2. There is a tutorial on how to remove the fairings on this board, make sure you watch and follow exactly. It's intimidating at first but not hard once you get the hang of it. As you remove things make sure to pay attention to how they come apart. First, make sure you remove all of the push pins there is a small one at the top back of the wheel well that's easy to miss. Remove the bottom sail fairing first, then the large fairing. Be careful with the sail fairing because the plastic tabs are easy to break. Hardest part is getting the leading edge of the fairing to separate from the rest of the bike. Work from the bottom up once you get the bottom apart and you'll be fine. Also remember that one of the post/grommet attachments at the top does not pull straight out, you have to pop it out vertically. Once all the attachments are removed you grab the fairing and pull down and back to get it off.

Reinstallation is just the opposite of removal, work from the top down. Put a dab of silicone grease inside the grommets to facilitate install. I also put a drop of superglue on the outside of the grommets where they install into the ram air tubes to prevent pushing them through. When working on the leading edge just snap it over the ridge from top to bottom. Make sure all of the push pins are installed and you're golden. Once complete, give everything a onceover to make sure all is in the right place and meshes together correctly.

First time for me took about 2 hours because I was afraid to break something. Now I can remove the right fairing in under 5 minutes.

Another tip if you're worried about scratching is to be sure your fairings and hands are clean. There will be some grit in the nooks and crannies so wipe them down before installation also.

Be careful when reinstalling the drain plug, it's easy to strip the aluminum oil pan threads so torque it to spec. Use a new crush washer.

Removing the airbox to do spark plug replacement is also pretty easy.

 

[Getn off]

Yea, it looks intimidating, but it really is pretty easy. It is very rewarding to wrench on your baby and get to know her secret spots! Just like E Zurcher said, follow that video, and nothing really can go wrong.
I would definitely get a good rear stand. You will use it way more than you think...chain lube etc!
Enjoy,
Troy

 

[TheoDio Deus Ex Machina]

Thank you all for yr replies!!
Actually shes a 07 black edition with 15000 km on the clock almost new!! I realy really enjoy wrenching but very afraid breaking something! But sure i dont like paying 170 euros just for oil change. And i change the oil every 3-4000 km's!!
I consider to buy a decent torque wrench facom maybe, and a stand

 

[E Zurcher]

Gen 1s are even easier than Gen 2s. Dive right in.

 

[TheoDio Deus Ex Machina]

Hi fellow Busa riders!

Just to keep you posted asnd to ask you a question.

Just did my oil change (10w40 Ipone semi-synth), removed right fairing (very very easy just put electrical tape one the edges not to scratch them) but could not find room for my filter wrench couz i used an adaptor 1/2 to 3/8', but anyway I had only 3500 kms on that oil and filter so changed only the oil with success! poured exactly 3100 ml and I discovered that the Suzuki dealer overfilled my motor above the F mark till the metal tip of the eye glass -both tyres on even ground.!! Imagine that!!

While I was in there I changed my plugs even though the ones installerd they were almost new denso also they came out easy. I installed the new ones finger tight and with my 1/2 wrench and the bike's plug wrench tightened just a 1/5 of a turn after it felt tightened. Should I be ok with this? I was very afraid of over tightening and considering how easy the previous ones were removed and also the 11 N.M spec of Suzy I wrench it just a little further just after it was beggining to get hard. In 2 plugs I felt the washer squashing but the other ones just hardered all the sadden.

Any comments?? I made it?? My first successful wnenching in my Busa??

 

[nosbig]

Not sure if I would have changed the plugs, but I have never heard of someone having problems because their plugs were too fresh. One thing I always do is put a small bit of anti-seize on each plug before I install them.

As far as your oil filter I always change mine. I have a large pair of chanel locks to twist it off with and just put the new one on hand tight.

 

[Getn off]

I would buy a torque wrench and tighten the plugs to spec. Too tight, and they will break coming out next time (and yes, anti seize is a must!). Too loose, and they will come out under a high load one day! Ask me how I know this little morsel of information!
Good job non the less!!!
Troy

 

[TheoDio Deus Ex Machina]

Thank you for your answers!

My main consern is not to damage the bike. Since I don't own a torque wrench I spent some time studying on the web. I red somewhere on NGK site that anti slip may act partialy as lubricant and torque may vary up to 20% more than your torque wrench pick! Also that the material is specialy designed as not to seize on the threads. And last, spark plugs were installed from the factory without anti seize. Don't know guys im still learning and I thank you for all the good info that I found on the .org!

Keep up the good work!

 

[dadofthree]

I change my filter every change as well. I hand tighten my filter, can usually get it off by hand but if I do have trouble , like Jeff I have a big pair of channel locks. Also you can try just opening up the bottom of the fairings next time. It's what i do instead of completely removing the fairing.

 

[E Zurcher]

I use anti seize and have found if you torque to spec you will not overtighten. I think the spec provided is conservative. In fact I have had plugs loosen up on me twice. So I torque to spec and give it a bit more by feel. Probably only about 1/8 turn. When I feel the washer is compressed fully, I stop. Have not had one loosen up since and they come out fine when it's time to change.

When changing the oil filter the manual says spin on until contact and then give it two full turns. This turns out to be when the metal lip of the filter just contacts the boss and no more. If you are using a Suzuki Filter you will see the o-ring is a bit different than a car oil filter. It's quite large and squishy. I only use the OEM filter so I follow their instructions exactly.

 

[TheoDio Deus Ex Machina]

Hi guys!

E Zurcher thank you for your valuable info. I bought today a decent Norbar torque wrench (8-50 N.m) and removed and installed again my sp plugs and I found out that they were way too loose!! Maybe 3 N.m instead of 11!!! OMG just realized how inacurate (maybe sound stupid but most of us do the same mistake) is the "hand feel"! So, I torqued the to spec and it feels so good! Click Click youre done!

I've been wrenching motors for about 5 years and even though I know the importence of torque specs I always worked by hand feel. From now on I'll always use my torque wrench for spark plugs, brake calipers, oil plug, everything!

Imagine the damage that would have taken place If i didn't use my torque wrench to torque em up! Well thanks again fellas!!