oil change

[OB_WARBIRD]

Now Im going to go put some miles on my busa and relax, since its about 70 degrees outside. Great break-in weather.

 

[OB_WARBIRD]

I would guess for breaking in, just like you said,but 600 miles is probably fine for changing over. The service manual says next oil change at 4000 miles. They probably figure that all the wearing in has occured and most of the metal that is going to wear off has already happened because they recomend going to the normal interval [aprox. 3500 miles] right after the 600 mile change. I really feel at that first change, the Mobil has some advantages to offer a new motor. I posted the results from an oil test a few weeks back where they tested Mobil 1,Castrol Syntec,Golden Spectro and Honda HP4.[a couple synthetics,a couple petroleums] and all but the Mobil had viscosity indexs close to half what they were when they were new by 800 to a 1000 miles. I think an engine is still relativly new from that 600 to 3000 mile range and that the MX4T offers some real advantages during that part of the engines life. We all want the best for our bikes, and it's just my opinion this is the way to go. Who knows,maybe I think too highly of my opinions on certain things to do with high peformance motorcycles,Ive always been relentless about using the best products and performing maintainence EXACTLY like it should be done. [My wife says I go to extremes] But Ive had a BUNCH of nice new bikes and they always seemed to perform better than others of the same model that were serviced differently with different products. I know that this is the most passionate group of people about their bikes Ive ever encountered,very unique. So when I pass on some info to other owners and it makes a difference in the way their bikes run,[hopefuly for the better]I feel like Ive done something good. Everbody is right though, these are just opinions,and as such you should evaluate all the info and opinions you can get and try to make the best decision for your own situation. Everones tastes are different.

 

[OB_NumbNuts]

Okay WARBIRD, I understand your POINT, and I did exactly that with Mobil 1 MX4T in my Busa over 8000 miles ago.
So, what is the point then of Suz. putting in anything but mobil 1 (or something of similar quality (like the R1's)) right from mile zero??

I'm not flaming ya, I'm just curious.....



[This message has been edited by NumbNuts (edited 22 July 2000).]

 

[OB_NumbNuts]

Warbird

I change it more regular at first, just to check more than anything else that bits of metal aren't falling off inside.

As regarding running in. Personnally, knowing what I do now, I would have just used the heat cycle method that someone was talking about quite a while back now, real hot, cool, real hot, cool, real hot, cool. Done!! (what, this would take about 100 miles??)
Mobil 1 after this.

as for time between changes, I either stick to the schedule now, or, if its beging to look manky in the sight glass I will change it early. I don't go more than the service milage thats for sure (just to be on the safe side. I realise you can now with these newer and more reliable anti shear oils but if she lasts, as you say 2,3,or even 4 times as long, the extra money is worth it.)

I tried your tip on friday, and used mobil 1 on my chain (I normally use a scottoiler chain oil) the difference is absolutely UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!!
Thanks for that one

I agree that the tolerences that are machined into the components these days are unbelievably small, thus running in to "mate gears and the such is not really needed. But then, its not the machined surface we have to worry about, look at the manufacturing tolerances on the camshafts sprocket. This is the problem. Because the bikes are mass produced, all the little things tend to be "a bit out here, a bit out there"

If these could be addressed then running in would not be so important. A case in point, the ZX12 and its extended run in because of the problems...

Are these your thoughts too??

Nuts

 

[OB_WARBIRD]

No flaming intended NumNuts. Do you think any of that makes sense? That most of the metal wearing has occured in the first 600 miles since the owners manual recomends going 3400 miles till the next oil change after the initial? Did you go to 4000 for your second change or did you change it early? How many miles does every one go between changes?

[This message has been edited by WARBIRD (edited 23 July 2000).]

 

[OB_WARBIRD]

Num Nuts, Yes,they are. I do change to Mobil at or a little before the first change, but I really baby my bikes for the first 1500 to 2000 miles or so. I feel it is VERY important. Case in point, my 2000 has 501 miles on it and has never seen over 4000 rpms. A lot of people like to run em in hard, stating they run better if you break em in like your gonna ride em! That may be true for the first part of an engines life, but youll get more consistant engine perfomance over a longer period of time by breaking them in easy. Boy, I'm just miserable. My 8 year old daughter just crashed her Mongoose trying to get around my neighbors car that was blocking the sidewalk.[he's a real jerk] She broke her beautiful little arm. Its really tramautic seeing your little girl get hurt. She has a brand new XR80 in the garage thats never been ridden and she told me in the emergency room she was scared to ride it now. I wont try to push her I guess, hopefuly her curiosity will get stronger than her fears. She see's her mother and I ride all the time so that should help. Well, talk at ya later Numb Nuts, gotta be the first to sign that cast on her arm. Hmmm, Dad or WARBIRD? I could just thrash my neighbor, but it wont fix my daughters arm, and Id just get in trouble. Thats no example I guess.

[This message has been edited by WARBIRD (edited 23 July 2000).]

 

[Guest]

warbird so sorry to hear about your daughters arm hope she gets better soon i have a 21 month old daughter so i can relate

 

[OB_WARBIRD]

Thanks Busa2, kids are something else are'nt they? I wrote to you on the sprocket change post. Hope the information helps. I'll say it again, SUPER sharp bike! You'll have to come down for a ride sometime,absolutly perfect roads for riding here. Latly there have'nt even been any bugs. [hate those damn things]

 

[OB_WARBIRD]

Sorry busa2, I wrote to you on the "IS only 87 pump octane really o.k.?" thread. ABOUT sprocket changes.

 

[Guest]

warbird saw your reply on gearing considered 1 tooth down on the front but i might wait because i'm lowering rear and tying front down next weekend so i dont want to make many changes right now. where do you live? theres 2 bike events back to back up hear for the next to weekends.

 

[OB_WARBIRD]

I live in Kentucky between Louisville and Frankfort. Ill talk to you on the Bike Nationals thread. That way we dont have to jump around.

 

[OB_NumbNuts]

Hope she is okay. Young'uns mend quicker than old 'uns!!

She'll be riding the XR80 quicker than you can say what plaster cast!

Just go dent your neighbours car with a 'runaway lawnmower'. He won't park it there much longer after a few scrapes.......

Nuts

 

[OB_Spider]

WARBIRD sorry to here about your little girl,hope she feels better soon.

I thought riding at low rpms caused excesive
carbon build up ... What I usually do is rev the engine every now and then to 7000 after 400 miles and after 500 or 600 miles up to 8500 while being very easy on the throttle
,ofcourse that's what I do. I also change oil and filter a bit more frequent,untill 3000 miles every 500 miles
,after that every 1000 miles. I believe this helps to the longevity of the engine more then anything...Well,what ever makes us happy,my bikes were,are and will always be more important then my cars and boats,so they deserve the extra treatment,that's that.

 

[OB_WARBIRD]

Spider, I change my oil about every 500 miles or so after the first one till about 3000 miles also. Then about 800 to 1000 miles depending how the oil looks like Num Nuts said. Ive always been exsesive on oil changes, and if your not running Mobil 1 MX4T the oil is about at half its original viscosity index at 800 miles anyway. Thats no good! With the fuel injection on the busa, running around with small throttle openings at low rpms during break in wont create any bad carbon build ups. Heck cruising at 65 mph at 3200 rpms or so is about as lean a condition as you can get. Wont build up any carbon that way! The best way to remove carbon deposits is JUST like you stated, a fairly high rpm with very small throttle openings. Itll burn it right off that way. It'll get run plenty hard when it gets broke in and when the turbo goes on I promise I wont let any carbon grow in there. Id say i've probably never had exessive carbon build up in anything I ever owned. Thanks for the kind thought about my daughter. You too Num Nuts! Later!

[This message has been edited by WARBIRD (edited 24 July 2000).]