Oil Changing
- Thread starter daoryder
- Start date
I use Suzuki filter and Maxim 20-50w fully Synthetic oil. On the rear stand, remove the right side fairing, place tin-foil over the header pipes, drain pan under the engine, remove oil drain plug (front center of the oil pan) drain oil, remove filter (located right above the drain plug), let drip as much as possible. Wipe off and replace plug, install new filter with a touch of oil smeared around the seal, hand tight (or 1/4 turn with filter wrench after hand snugged) and fill with new oil. Remove tin-foil and ensure any remaining oil residue is cleaned off as much as possible. Start, let run a minute or two, shut-off, let sit 3-5minutes, check oil level with bike straight up unloaded (top off if needed), replace right side of fairing.
If you dont have a rear stand, or something to keep the bike upright, remove the left fairing as well, since it will be the low side, and once draining, you can stand it upright yourself, sitting on it for a few minutes.
Hope this helps.
If you dont have a rear stand, or something to keep the bike upright, remove the left fairing as well, since it will be the low side, and once draining, you can stand it upright yourself, sitting on it for a few minutes.
Hope this helps.
Remove the right fairing. Once that is removed you can see the oil filter in front of the engine, between the headers. The drain bolt is under the engine. Look and you will see the oil pan. The bolt is protected by a "shield" that comes down off of the oil pan. You have enough miles on your bike to switch to a full synthetic oil if you wanted to. You can get Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 from Auto Zone at a good price. I think most people agree that a OEM filter is the way to go. You will need allen wrenches to get the right fairing off. A socket for the drain plug. A filter wrench for the filter. Take your time removing the fairing. Besides teh allen bolts holding it on there are some plastic clips in where the front wheel is. Use a small allen wrench to push the center of these pins in a little and then pull out the whole thing. There are some more of these small fasteners up by the handlebars. On the inner fairing by the handlebars there is also a large clip that needs to be removed. Take care removing the fairing at this point so that you dont scratch your nose fairing. Use extra extra care when replacing the same for the same reason. When you remove the side fairing, you need to pu up on the inner fairing. There is a "plug" that holds it to the frame.
Right fairing only, and if you leave it on the kickstand the oil drains between the pipes for a no mess change; you just need to break the filter and let it drain before completely and carefully removing it.
I always change mine with the engine hot. So pull the fairing, have all your stuff together and a short catch pan that will fit under the Busa, but holds 4 quarts. Crank her up and let her run a few minutes if possible. After two years it needs to be hot.
Has it been sitting for two years, or have you put 15K on it in the last two years
I always change mine with the engine hot. So pull the fairing, have all your stuff together and a short catch pan that will fit under the Busa, but holds 4 quarts. Crank her up and let her run a few minutes if possible. After two years it needs to be hot.
Has it been sitting for two years, or have you put 15K on it in the last two years
AYE THANKS GUYS FOR ALL THE HELP..i went to autozone and bought the mobil 1 racing 4t 10w 30 synthetic oil and k&n fliter...i think i rather give it a shot my self $85. i dont have a bike stand so i guess ill just have to have someone hold the bike plus my bike is lower in the front and back...thanks thanks thanks
"mobil 1 racing 4t 10w 30 synthetic oil"
Don't know anything about your oil but 'motorcycle specific' engine oil is what the wet clutch requires if you didn't know.
Don't know anything about your oil but 'motorcycle specific' engine oil is what the wet clutch requires if you didn't know.
I would suggest that you do THIS oil change with ordinary oil. Use 10-40 Change the filter too, of course.
Then, run it for about 200 miles and THEN change it with the synthetic AND a new filter. That will help to clean it out and keep the crud out of it longer.
You don't need anyone to hold it upright for you. Just let it lean on it's side while you change it and as the last of the oil drains, you can hold it upright for a minute or so and you're good to go. Then put it back on it's side stand and proceed.
K&N filters should be good. Make sure you remove the old crush washer and install a new one.
Make SURE you change the oil ever 3,000 miles if you use regular old oil but if you use synthetic, change it every 5 or 6 thousand miles.
--Wag--
Then, run it for about 200 miles and THEN change it with the synthetic AND a new filter. That will help to clean it out and keep the crud out of it longer.
You don't need anyone to hold it upright for you. Just let it lean on it's side while you change it and as the last of the oil drains, you can hold it upright for a minute or so and you're good to go. Then put it back on it's side stand and proceed.
K&N filters should be good. Make sure you remove the old crush washer and install a new one.
Make SURE you change the oil ever 3,000 miles if you use regular old oil but if you use synthetic, change it every 5 or 6 thousand miles.
--Wag--
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