OIL

[mountainmotor]

And I'm not trying to twist things around to get people to not use the Amsoil . It might be the end of all means for other people . Suggest quantifying your results with analysis from a CAT SOS Lab though .

I used it one time , the 10w-40 in my Daughters Ford Taurus for around 3.5 months and 4k miles in summer months. It thickened to a 50wt in just short time .

No fiction , just fact there .

 

[gsxr1100]

All I am saying was the your oil is low to start with. Mine was higer from the start and finish. Plus the price was pretty cheap!

The add pkg in Amsoil is one of the best ones out there for the money.

Next was that I complared my truck since, again, diesels are much harder on add pkg’s then a bike could ever be. That was my point.

And yes I know the depleation of ZDDP, Ca and others is NONE linear. And I know how they show up and why.

The TBN I say is low for what you got. Again my car with 4X the miles would be just as close in ZDDP and CA (TBN within <2 pts) and my truck was almost the same. My bike was higher.

TBN should be stated since that tells you what is left for fights some bad things. Most labs do it for free and others nickel and dime you.

I still would like to know how come up did not get a complete test. You are missing a lot of areas here, big time. Ex: you could have a TBN of 6.5 but TAN over the scale. Or your NOX and OXD like 30 to 40%. How about fuel, water, coolant, soot, etc?

I do not even look at Amsoil XL series since the price is about 5% of there real group 4/5 oils.

I also disagree on your statement, “. Gas engine oils don't need hi-starting TBN . If it's comes inherently with how it's additised so be it but don't beleive me , call Dave at Redline and ask him .“

My car (Lexus) if it did not have a high TBN number it would be a sludge engine, big time. I like Redline but I do not use there oils since there Moly is too high for my cars and the price is too high for what you get.Again TBN is integral to the add's.

Have a good weekend! My bike is all put away for the year...Now time to starting look for bike #2

PS. I am not trying to get people on Amsoil. I get it for 6.XX per qt so it is cheap!

<!--EDIT|gsxr1100
Reason for Edit: None given...|1129936157 -->

 

[TRICKBUSA]

I USE MOTUL FULL SYN I THINK ITS 3500 AND THEN ADD 1/4 OF A QT OF LUCAS OIL STABILIZER. I GET SMOOTH SHIFTS NO CLUTCH SLIP AND NO CHATTER FROM THE CAMS TRY IT. HOPE YOU LIKE IT

 

[mountainmotor]

I still would like to know how come up did not get a complete test. You are missing a lot of areas here, big time. Ex: you could have a TBN of 6.5 but TAN over the scale. Or your NOX and OXD like 30 to 40%. How about fuel, water, coolant, soot, etc?

I do not even look at Amsoil XL series since the price is about 5% of there real group 4/5 oils.

I also disagree on your statement, “. Gas engine oils don't need hi-starting TBN . If it's comes inherently with how it's additised so be it but don't beleive me , call Dave at Redline and ask him .“  

My car (Lexus) if it did not have a high TBN number it would be a sludge engine, big time. I like Redline but I do not use there oils since there Moly is too high for my cars and the price is too high for what you get.Again TBN is integral to the add's.

Have a good weekend! My bike is all put away for the year...Now time to starting look for bike #2

PS. I am not trying to get people on Amsoil. I get it for 6.XX per qt so it is cheap!

Funny that you are questioning why I don't list it nor use a lab that tests for TAN when I use a gasoline engine oil in a gasoline engine  

 

The Total Acid Number will measure the buildup of organic acids produced during oxidation of an oil . The derived number does not discriminate the type acids generated by oxidation from those that are ingested as contaminants or from certain types of additives , like anti-wear and corrosion inhibitors and can make making trending of oxidation by using TAN difficult . Effectively , we don't see what we need to see . Leave the TAN for the diesels using mineral oils

I could go on about the oxidative degradation and the role that different antioxidants play along with the formation of reactive (harmful) compounds known as free radicals, hydro peroxides and plain

peroxides and why the anti-oxidents are more important than your precious TBN in GASOLINE engine oils ... but why .

Yes I use the soot , nitration and other values to help guage what the possible remaining oil life might be , how well the engine is sealing and more but I'm not posting it for you . I only listed the TBN to show that the Silkolene must start pretty high to begin with .... as a result of the type additives used . I get the impression that you beleive TBN to be an additive of some type . It's not , I assure you

BTW , your Lexus and sludge , or lack of , or would have , if you did not use Amsoil as you say ..... has nothing to do with TBN  but I'm not going there .

 

[mountainmotor]

Has anyone tried Royal Purple?

To get back on track ,

Yes , the # 41 oil " Racing 41 " is like a 10w-40 and is built pretty nice . There are plenty of the type additives needed for long term street use in it .

Then they have the bike specific oil , whatever it's called . Even more anti-wear than the # 41 but not sure it's an absolute must for 4k mile or thereabout drains .

 

[crazybusa]

can a 5-40wt be used in the hayabusa? does a difference of 5wt really matter? how many miles can one expect to get out of a synthetic motor oil? thanks.

 

[gsxr1100]

I still would like to know how come up did not get a complete test. You are missing a lot of areas here, big time. Ex: you could have a TBN of 6.5 but TAN over the scale. Or your NOX and OXD like 30 to 40%. How about fuel, water, coolant, soot, etc?

I do not even look at Amsoil XL series since the price is about 5% of there real group 4/5 oils.

I also disagree on your statement, “. Gas engine oils don't need hi-starting TBN . If it's comes inherently with how it's additised so be it but don't beleive me , call Dave at Redline and ask him .“

My car (Lexus) if it did not have a high TBN number it would be a sludge engine, big time. I like Redline but I do not use there oils since there Moly is too high for my cars and the price is too high for what you get.Again TBN is integral to the add's.

Have a good weekend! My bike is all put away for the year...Now time to starting look for bike #2

PS. I am not trying to get people on Amsoil. I get it for 6.XX per qt so it is cheap!

Funny that you are questioning why I don't list it nor use a lab that tests for TAN when I use a gasoline engine oil in a gasoline engine

The Total Acid Number will measure the buildup of organic acids produced during oxidation of an oil . The derived number does not discriminate the type acids generated by oxidation from those that are ingested as contaminants or from certain types of additives , like anti-wear and corrosion inhibitors and can make making trending of oxidation by using TAN difficult . Effectively , we don't see what we need to see . Leave the TAN for the diesels using mineral oils

I could go on about the oxidative degradation and the role that different antioxidants play along with the formation of reactive (harmful) compounds known as free radicals, hydro peroxides and plain

peroxides and why the anti-oxidents are more important than your precious TBN in GASOLINE engine oils ... but why .

Yes I use the soot , nitration and other values to help guage what the possible remaining oil life might be , how well the engine is sealing and more but I'm not posting it for you . I only listed the TBN to show that the Silkolene must start pretty high to begin with .... as a result of the type additives used . I get the impression that you beleive TBN to be an additive of some type . It's not , I assure you

BTW , your Lexus and sludge , or lack of , or would have , if you did not use Amsoil as you say ..... has nothing to do with TBN but I'm not going there .

I guess you do not know about lexus and the sludge issue. Not going to go there since I have the car and know why I use and why.

So a high and maintaining TBN does not mean anything? Also oxd and NOx are integral to TBN as I am sure you know. As something goes up something goes down. Like Newtons Laws.

I know about TBN and it a high TBN does not mean a good oil but I do know many oil do not maintain these level for that long and drop like a rock.

For me I like to know TAN and TBN since it is an easy test per ASTM 664 and as you stated for example I like to know if my oil (gas or diesel) has acids and Potasium Hydroxide for example. AND most times if they do one the other is FREE!

But then again most labs test TBN per ASTM D-2896 which yields an incorrect # (too high) and they should be per ASTM D-4739 (more accurately reflects the level of neutralizing power left in the engine oil after use).

Then again you do not use TBN but you use "soot , nitration"..hmm Soot on a gas engine (ok) but you want to do not care about the TBN....???

Also TAn levels are in synthetic or diesels since diesels are most prone to soot then gasers.

But ha that is me.

<!--EDIT|gsxr1100
Reason for Edit: None given...|1130844941 -->

 

[1badasbusa]

AMSOIL all the way. I use it in everything. I love it all my buddies love it. Smooth shifting, friction modifiers for the clutch.

      http://www.puresynthetics.com

I'M W/ 1BADASBUSA ON THIS.  SOMEONE HAD RECOMMENDED THIS OIL FROM THIS SITE A FEW YEARS BACK AND I LIKE IT ALOT.  VERY SMOOTH AND NO PROBLEMS.  I STARTED USING THE OIL IN MY 01' AROUND 1K AND STILL USE IT TO THIS DAY @19K.

Thanx BABYBUSA01

 

[Johnnycheese]

everything you wanted to know about oil

 

[05 Busa LE]

My head hurts after reading this! You guys must be engineers.

 

[busafish]

Basically it said, don't really matter(synthetic/dino whatever) unless it's got friction modifiers/energy saving crap which makes wet clutches slip.

 

[Vic_E55_2001]

Mobil1 15-50, Not Motorcycle specific, motorcycle specific oil is waiste of money, it has been proven numerous times.
Mineral oil is crap by design (in comparison with syntetic oil)

 

[busafish]

anyone know who suppies suzuki oem oil?

 

[Tool]

i just did my break in oil change. the dealer did it for the first time. i will be doing it from now on. the dealer of course recommends suzuki motor oil. i was going to ask for recommendations here, but after reading this i am totally confused. i heard something about pudding and numbers and percentages that have my wondering should i even start my bike again. not speaking for everyone, but i would have to say that most guys and gals on the site are regular joes. lets keep it simple. i just would like type(motorcycle syn., etc..), grade, and brand oil. maybe a short testimony. not taking anything away from anyone. obviously some of you guys are extremely smart.

 

[JROCK]

MOBIL MX4T OR SHELL ROTELLA FULL SNY 5W-40.

 

[busafish]

now that I think about it. Bike did like the oem suzuki oil but somehow oem oil made my bike difficult to engage 1st from standing stop. Yeah I know, very weird.
Tried dino car oil for 40 miles wow big mistake BIG mistake even though it had no energy saving modifiers, bike ran rough, vibrations all over the place, drop in gas milege. after that I tried motul motorcycle oil, the "blend" kind. It was ok. I think suzuki oem oil was more slippery. I pour that motul blend out in 500 miles. Then I tried Motul FULL synthetic now the bike just purrs. No gear engaging problem like suzuki oem oil.

Now, in hind sight i see no reason to put down suzuki oem oil. It works great. So well infact it made my clutch slip and I had problem engaging 1st from neutral. I guess it's like spam. We'll never find out what's in it but for now. I know for sure my "Darlene" likes full synthetic in her diet.

 

[sportrider1296]

Hello, I know that when everyone gets on the oil topic it gets confusing. First off, Amsoil synthetics are simply the best thing you can put in your engine. Yes, I'm a dealer. The proof, my cummins dodge always ran rotella with summertime engine oil temps at 220 degrees. I switched to amsoil at 120,000 miles and the next day in the same temperature the truck ran 20 degrees cooler with the amsoil. Now back to motorcycles. I have had a 97' gsxr-750 and a 00' TL1000R and always have used amsoil. This was when it was 4-5 dollars a quart. Both the TL and gixxer had over 25,000 miles when I sold them and they ran just like they did when I got them. Now the oil has went up significantly since then. My busa's first oil change was on the suzuki's oil. Now after doing some research I am using diesel oil in my busa made by Castrol, called Tection Extra 15w-40. You can get it at advanced auto parts on sale for $5 a gallon, wow. Back to amsoil, although it is better, my experience with it is that it only last the 3,000 miles that regular oil last in these bikes. After the 3K mark it becomes difficult to shift then I drain it. So I'm not getting anymore service out of it than other oils. I ride a lot and oil changes are frequent, so it gets expensive. I use the Castrol 15w-40 for 1,500 miles and I drain it, leave the filter on, and refill with about 3.5 quarts. The next 1,500 do this again but change the filter also. I use hiflo-filtro HF-138 that is $6.25 each. Now, why the diesel oil in my busa. Diesel engine oils do not contain all the friction modifiers that are found in car oils and do great along with our wet clutches. They also contain more zinc and phosphorus levels like real motorcycle oil than automotive oils. If you are familiar with diesel engines, they have gear driven timing, which means they also have a lot of gears inside the engine beating on the oil. Motorcycle transmissions is the downfall to oils. The gears and high reving shear the viscosity of the oil, besides higher temperatures, this is the only difference between auto and motorcycle oils. Everyone else is also correct about the car oils slipping your clutch. Any oil that is 5w-30 or 10w-30, is labeled as a energy conserving oil that contains a lot of friction modifers to improve gas mileage in your car, this is killer for our clutch. DO NOT USE THESE!!! Your can however use any thing 5w-40 and up. Use the 40 weight all year long or if you live in a hot place you can use 50 weight in the hot months but not the winter. I use the diesel oils because their formulation closely matchs that of motorcycle specific oils a lot closer that car oils, synthetic or not. If you want synthetic use a syn. diesel oil like Mobil 1 Delvac or amsoil both in 15w-40. If you need any more help just get at me, and yes I research oil a lot, its my thing!

 

[JROCK]

Hello,  I know that when everyone gets on the oil topic it gets confusing.  First off, Amsoil synthetics are simply the best thing you can put in your engine.  Yes, I'm a dealer.  The proof, my cummins dodge always ran rotella with summertime engine oil temps at 220 degrees.  I switched to amsoil at 120,000 miles and the next day in the same temperature the truck ran 20 degrees cooler with the amsoil.  Now back to motorcycles.  I have had a 97' gsxr-750 and a 00' TL1000R and always have used amsoil.  This was when it was 4-5 dollars a quart.  Both the TL and gixxer had over 25,000 miles when I sold them and they ran just like they did when I got them.  Now the oil has went up significantly since then.  My busa's first oil change was on the suzuki's oil.  Now after doing some research I am using diesel oil in my busa made by Castrol, called Tection Extra 15w-40.  You can get it at advanced auto parts on sale for $5 a gallon, wow.  Back to amsoil,  although it is better, my experience with it is that it only last the 3,000 miles that regular oil last in these bikes.  After the 3K mark it becomes difficult to shift then I drain it.  So I'm not getting anymore service out of it than other oils.  I ride a lot and oil changes are frequent, so it gets expensive.  I use the Castrol 15w-40 for 1,500 miles and I drain it, leave the filter on, and refill with about 3.5 quarts.  The next 1,500 do this again but change the filter also.  I use hiflo-filtro HF-138 that is $6.25 each.  Now, why the diesel oil in my busa.  Diesel engine oils do not contain all the friction modifiers that are found in car oils and do great along with our wet clutches.  They also contain more zinc and phosphorus levels like real motorcycle oil than automotive oils.  If you are familiar with diesel engines, they have gear driven timing, which means they also have a lot of gears inside the engine beating on the oil. Motorcycle transmissions is the downfall to oils.  The gears and high reving shear the viscosity of the oil, besides higher temperatures, this is the only difference between auto and motorcycle oils.  Everyone else is also correct about the car oils slipping your clutch.  Any oil that is 5w-30 or 10w-30, is labeled as a energy conserving oil that contains a lot of friction modifers to improve gas mileage in your car,  this is killer for our clutch.  DO NOT USE THESE!!!  Your can however use any thing 5w-40 and up.  Use the 40 weight all year long or if you live in a hot place you can use 50 weight in the hot months but not the winter.  I use the diesel oils because their formulation closely matchs that of motorcycle specific oils a lot closer that car oils, synthetic or not.  If you want synthetic use a syn. diesel oil like Mobil 1 Delvac or amsoil both in 15w-40.  If you need any more help just get at me, and yes I research oil a lot, its my thing!

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT SHELL ROTELLA 5-W40 FULL SYN.

 

[sportrider1296]

hello, thanks for reading my rambling. Yes, it is all true without opinion, I won't mislead people by taking sides on brands. Now back to your question. First I must explain to you about the two kinds of synthetic oil. The first kind is what is called true synthetic oil that is formulated from a total sythetic base stocks (non-dino oil). The second kind is what the Shell Rotella T syn 5w-40 is, a hydro-cracked petroleum oil. The rotella is refined begining with dino oil stocks and then hydro-cracked to get the petroleum out. Then sythetic additives are added to the package. What does this mean? Rotella syn. is definately better than plain dino oil but will fall short of the benifits of a full synthetic. The only suppliers of full sythetic diesel oil that are readably available are Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40, available at truck stops, and Amsoil Heavy duty diesel and marine motor oil 15w-40, that I use in my cummins dodge. Both of these are around 20-25 bucks a gallon. In my opinion and based on studies I have read that is sent to me as a amsoil dealer, I believe the amsoil to be a much better product according to the wear scar measurements between the two. Check this link out for all you want to know about the true of motorcycle oil.
www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
Any thing you want to know about oil or filters I will be more that happy to help you and all the other guys.

*I'm a dealer for amsoil and will sell this stuff to you guys just a little over my cost. I think you could just paypal the money to me and I can order it for you and they will ship it to your door. email diesel59@iwon.com

*Tip of the Day* Don't use fram filters on anything. Want to know why? These use a paper end cap that holds the filtering media together at the end opposite the threaded end. With heat and saturation, the cardboard breaks down and gets distributed throughout your engine. nuff said!

 

[JROCK]

HOW MUCH FOR THE AMSOIL 10W-40 MOTORCYCLE OIL. FULL SYN OF COURSE

<!--EDIT|JROCK
Reason for Edit: None given...|1135354850 -->