Okay Folks...I have a question about "Oil Filters"
- Thread starter JINKSTER
- Start date
Holy shid, all I've used for over thirty years is Fram.(Deadeye @ Feb. 25 2007,17:19) I wouldn't run FRAM on anything ... especially a Busa. See the web links near the start of this thread for comparisons and pics ... Basically FRAM seems to make em as cheap as they can - I don't have test data but the pics seem to support lower quality. Hope it helps.
Need to check out that Purolator
There's nothing wrong with Fram. Don't believe the BS. I've ran them on everything i've ever owned and NEVER had a problem. Never.
Anytime you hear of a filter exploding it's usually caused by someone running a standard filter with a high performance high volume/high flow application or a bypass spring malfunction of some type. Then, of course parts can fail, even the high dollar stuff. Stuff happens.
Go ahead and run the Fram, K&N or any other name brand filter.
Anytime you hear of a filter exploding it's usually caused by someone running a standard filter with a high performance high volume/high flow application or a bypass spring malfunction of some type. Then, of course parts can fail, even the high dollar stuff. Stuff happens.
Go ahead and run the Fram, K&N or any other name brand filter.
Sorry GM...i'd challenge that...oh you may have been fortunate to not have suffered any filter related damage just like thousands upon thousands of others who have used fram filters but i stand behind the fact that they are built to the lowest standards as i was around the net back in '01 when many others weren't quite as fortunate.
The issue started back in '01 when more than just a couple GSXR1000 owners wound up with scored and scorched crank bearings...and they all had one thing in common...the use of Fram Oil Filters...and as it turned out?...cardboard fibers from the shiddyazz cardboard endcaps that are hot glued to the filter media liberated themselves and those fibers wound up inbetween bearing and cranl journals...scoring and scorching the bearing surfaces...in some cases?...to the point of catastrophic engine failure...to wit?...siezed cranks.
It's all BS until it happens to you....or someone you know...and then cut apart a fram filter and then ask yourself...wtf were you thinking...and?...how the he11 are they still in business?
It's all cool till it ain't cool....and then the shid hits the fan.....and fram filters are definantly...."shid".
True story and L8R, Bill.
I have always heard/read to stick with the Zuki filter to avoid media clogging and the resulting bypass? My understanding as it was explained to me that only the OEM filter was designed with the proper filtration to clean the oil yet not clog and go into "bypass mode" where NO filtering takes place. Has my previous information been found to be flawed? Somebody please splain to me as I have an oil change scheduled for this week and need to know if I gotta go get me the Pur ML 16818 or stick with the spare OEM on the shelf. BTW, I run Mobil1- 0 w 40 Fully Synthetic.
I'll just throw my $0.02 worth in here. Moose, if I were you, I'd go ahead and use what you got on the shelf, and then if you want to switch, go ahead.
I have heard these horror stories, and read the reviews and oil analysis results, and looked at the cut apart filters.
This discussion ranks right up there with "which oil is best". I know lots of guys who have used nothing but Fram filters forever, on every kind of equipment imagineable, who have never had a problem.
I personally prefer Purolator filters for my cages, based on the stuff I've seen, and I use the K&N, with it's $6 nut, on the Busa, 'cause it's easy to change, and does a good job of filtering.
When I hear of bypass valves failing, and media being sucked into engines - it sounds really bad, and naturally gives one pause. But what you don't usually hear in these stories is anything about other variables. How long between oil changes did the engine go? Was it low on oil? How old was the engine? Was it modified and/or raced and/or abused?
I have never been able to tell the difference between the performance of one filter vs another. Then again, I don't have oil analysis done. If you are taking care of your bike, and change the oil at the recommended interval, I suspect something non-oil / oil filter related will break before you sieze the engine.
If, on the other hand, you are like the guy posting earlier who was looking for help on changing his oil because his bike has 15K miles and it has been two years since the oil was changed - well, can he really expect to b!tch about how bad his oil filter performed when he spins a bearing?
I'm not saying bad stuff doesn't happen - even to guys who are diligent in their maintenance - I'm just saying that just because I read that a filter made by the same folks who manufacture the K&N had an issue, that isn't going to cause me to switch.
That said, if the nut (and the name) are the only reasons the thing costs twice as much as another filter that seems to be just as good, I will switch in a heartbeat.
In fact, that Purolator is looking really good to me - assuming I can find it in stock when I want it.
I'm not trying to discount anyone else's concerns, or call anyone out. But that's my thought process - feel free to reject it out of hand, and thanks for your attention.
Now, can we talk about tire pressure....?
Anybody have one of these?!?
It's only $107.99!
C'mon NitrousJunkie, fess up! Runeight, maybe?
Edit: Oops, sorry, didn't know the pic was THAT big!
Oil Filters:
The Finest Stainless Steel Micronic Oil Filter You Can Buy
* Why Scotts is the best: Setting the Industry Standard with Technological advancements in product design
* 10 Years of Engineering, manufacturing and testing
* Technical information and assistance available directly from the manufacturer
* 3 Pleat welded seam (best sealing and strongest
* Passes ASTMF316 Test for 35 Microns
* Certified "Bubble Point" testing on media
* Passes 24 hour chemical resistance test
* Custom woven media
* Able to withstand 600 degrees F.
* Full Flow bypass with progressive valving. No need to disassemble for cleaning.
* Magnetic pre-filtering (all spin-on models)
* Will Manufacture Custom Filters for Specialty and Vintage applications.
* Stocking orders filled WITHOUT waiting for overseas shipments.
* Sonic cleaning available from the manufacturer
* Used by the most factory backed riders
* Labeled "4-Stroke insurance" by MotoCross Action Magazine
* Rated "9" by Dirt Rider Magazine
* Given "Full Throttle" rating my Fast By Design
* Applications for just about everything that rolls, floats or glides across the snow.
* 100% In-House design and Manufactured in the USA
Superior Filtration:
This should be the last oil filter you will ever buy! Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200% more filter area in many cases. Most good paper filters will pass particles in the 90 to 95 micron range, and some tested, as much as 300 microns. Sand is about 125 microns and a white blood cell approximately 25 microns. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns "absolute", which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. The pleat seam is welded, able to withstand up to 600 degrees in our filter, not glued, like paper filters.
Cleanable and reusable:
Simply remove the filter, rinse in clean solvent and replace it, you're done. The filter can be cleaned with solvent, kerosene, aerosol carburetor cleaner, or any other degreasing agent, even common dish soap. You can even blow air through the filter from the inside out to remove any small particles or cleaning agent from the screen if you so desire.
Consistent flow under all conditions:
Stainless steel will stand up to the stress of heat, high pressure and physical handling much better than paper or brass. This filter maintains consistent flow under all conditions including cold start ups and or under extreme heat. A one inch square of this micron filter material will flow 1.9 gallons of 90 weight oil per minute at only 1 psi pump pressure (70 degrees F). Our typical filter size is 30 sq. in. which equals the flow of 57 gallons per minute. Standard paper filters do not flow well when the oil is cold, often causing the bypass valve to open allowing unfiltered oil to enter your engine, uhg!
Unaffected by Water, Heat and Pressure:
This filter is capable of withstanding extremely high pressure and flow rates. It is also unaffected by Water, Heat and Pressure, unlike standard paper filter material which swells in the presence of water, closing off filter pores and reducing flow.
Early Detection:
By allowing you to inspect the debris that is in the filter you can monitor your engines condition, avoiding minor and or catastrophic failures.
What is a Micron?
A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter. That's about .00003937 inches. Fine sand can be as small as 62 microns thick. Our filter will not allow any particle over 35 microns to pass through this filter, that's some pretty small stuff that's being caught.
So who uses this type of filtration?
This high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the Aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance.
Things to think about:
Next time you are fanning your clutch think about all that tiny debris that is created from the clutch and gears meshing together, spinning around in your motor's vital parts. If you really care about the life of your motor and consider the cost of loss of time associated with a current day 4-stroke motor, then you need one of these filters. It's even transferrable in some cases to your next bike. I used the same filter in my last three bikes, and it's still like brand new, there's simply nothing to wear out!
C'mon NitrousJunkie, fess up! Runeight, maybe?
Edit: Oops, sorry, didn't know the pic was THAT big!
Oil Filters:
The Finest Stainless Steel Micronic Oil Filter You Can Buy
* Why Scotts is the best: Setting the Industry Standard with Technological advancements in product design
* 10 Years of Engineering, manufacturing and testing
* Technical information and assistance available directly from the manufacturer
* 3 Pleat welded seam (best sealing and strongest
* Passes ASTMF316 Test for 35 Microns
* Certified "Bubble Point" testing on media
* Passes 24 hour chemical resistance test
* Custom woven media
* Able to withstand 600 degrees F.
* Full Flow bypass with progressive valving. No need to disassemble for cleaning.
* Magnetic pre-filtering (all spin-on models)
* Will Manufacture Custom Filters for Specialty and Vintage applications.
* Stocking orders filled WITHOUT waiting for overseas shipments.
* Sonic cleaning available from the manufacturer
* Used by the most factory backed riders
* Labeled "4-Stroke insurance" by MotoCross Action Magazine
* Rated "9" by Dirt Rider Magazine
* Given "Full Throttle" rating my Fast By Design
* Applications for just about everything that rolls, floats or glides across the snow.
* 100% In-House design and Manufactured in the USA
Superior Filtration:
This should be the last oil filter you will ever buy! Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200% more filter area in many cases. Most good paper filters will pass particles in the 90 to 95 micron range, and some tested, as much as 300 microns. Sand is about 125 microns and a white blood cell approximately 25 microns. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns "absolute", which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. The pleat seam is welded, able to withstand up to 600 degrees in our filter, not glued, like paper filters.
Cleanable and reusable:
Simply remove the filter, rinse in clean solvent and replace it, you're done. The filter can be cleaned with solvent, kerosene, aerosol carburetor cleaner, or any other degreasing agent, even common dish soap. You can even blow air through the filter from the inside out to remove any small particles or cleaning agent from the screen if you so desire.
Consistent flow under all conditions:
Stainless steel will stand up to the stress of heat, high pressure and physical handling much better than paper or brass. This filter maintains consistent flow under all conditions including cold start ups and or under extreme heat. A one inch square of this micron filter material will flow 1.9 gallons of 90 weight oil per minute at only 1 psi pump pressure (70 degrees F). Our typical filter size is 30 sq. in. which equals the flow of 57 gallons per minute. Standard paper filters do not flow well when the oil is cold, often causing the bypass valve to open allowing unfiltered oil to enter your engine, uhg!
Unaffected by Water, Heat and Pressure:
This filter is capable of withstanding extremely high pressure and flow rates. It is also unaffected by Water, Heat and Pressure, unlike standard paper filter material which swells in the presence of water, closing off filter pores and reducing flow.
Early Detection:
By allowing you to inspect the debris that is in the filter you can monitor your engines condition, avoiding minor and or catastrophic failures.
What is a Micron?
A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter. That's about .00003937 inches. Fine sand can be as small as 62 microns thick. Our filter will not allow any particle over 35 microns to pass through this filter, that's some pretty small stuff that's being caught.
So who uses this type of filtration?
This high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the Aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance.
Things to think about:
Next time you are fanning your clutch think about all that tiny debris that is created from the clutch and gears meshing together, spinning around in your motor's vital parts. If you really care about the life of your motor and consider the cost of loss of time associated with a current day 4-stroke motor, then you need one of these filters. It's even transferrable in some cases to your next bike. I used the same filter in my last three bikes, and it's still like brand new, there's simply nothing to wear out!
It seems like I read somewhere that to truely clean particles that small out of that filter you would have to use an ultrasonic cleaner plus at that price you would have to change the oil 10 to 20 times which for me equates to 5 to 10 years or more just to break even.
I also like to know that the particles that the filter are trapping are going in the trash not possibly still trapped in the filter element to "possibly" re-enter the engine, for my small piece of mind.
If I was still roadracing then I might think differently since I would be changing the oil every weekend.
I also like to know that the particles that the filter are trapping are going in the trash not possibly still trapped in the filter element to "possibly" re-enter the engine, for my small piece of mind.
If I was still roadracing then I might think differently since I would be changing the oil every weekend.
We used to run one very close to that many years ago on a oval track small block Chevy. I think the brand was System 1. Best I remember they were $75 20 years ago.(Shibumi @ Feb. 26 2007,22:16) Anybody have one of these?!?It's only $107.99!
No anti-drain back function in it's design = no Scotts filter for me . The price is same as 19 Purolaters . I use good synthetic and change annually . 19 years from now I doubt I'll have my Busa .
The larger particles never get to the filter anyway . The oil pick-up stops that from happening . Not filtering when cold due to bypass is non issue for me contrary to what Scott says about it .
Burned up clutches from drag racing and not dropping the oil pan is the demise of most the Busa engines in terms of bearings killed from lack of oil supply .
The larger particles never get to the filter anyway . The oil pick-up stops that from happening . Not filtering when cold due to bypass is non issue for me contrary to what Scott says about it .
Burned up clutches from drag racing and not dropping the oil pan is the demise of most the Busa engines in terms of bearings killed from lack of oil supply .
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