Ordered new cruise control today...
- Thread starter captain
- Start date
I did send Cap a PM about the directions and because the unit was discontinued, they did not do a write up. I asked if he could post a picture of the parts listed in my previous post since the unit is now available again.
I will be installing my CCS-100 next month during Christmas down time. I have had the CCS-100 in a box in my basement for almost a year now.
I will be installing my CCS-100 next month during Christmas down time. I have had the CCS-100 in a box in my basement for almost a year now.
lease:
It's been awhile but I can give you a pretty good overview....
This is how I did it, there will be a thousand others Im sure...
1. Pull the gas tank, seat and tail section.
2. Put the vacuum canister on the right side of the bike in the tail section in the light pod
3. Put the servo on the left side of the bike in the tail section in the light pod.
4. I used the 1st cylinder on the right side to connect the cruise to.
5. Mount the control head on the dash somewhere. Remember they are not water proof so try and get it under the windscreen.
6. There is a bolt hole on the frame on the left side of the bike, use this to mount the linkage adjustment bracket.
7. You connect the servo to the left side of the bike because the pull is on that side.
8. I used the L bracket and connced it to the factory linkage on the left, there is a screw you can take out to connect the bracket to.
9. install the vacuum canister and run a jumper vacuum hose from the servo to the canister, I ran it way back in the back of the storage area...
10. T Into a vacuum line and run it back to the vacuum canister, remember you can connect the vacuum up backwards.
11. You must install a relay that basically breaks ground so that you when you hit the brake the cruise shuts off. If you connect the cruise like the manual says and don't put a relay or a load resistor then the cruise will not shut off when you hit the brakes. The reason this has to be done is because of the low voltage pull on a Gen II with the LED lighs...
On the tail you will have to grind a little to get a good fit.
This is how I did it, there will be a thousand others Im sure...
1. Pull the gas tank, seat and tail section.
2. Put the vacuum canister on the right side of the bike in the tail section in the light pod
3. Put the servo on the left side of the bike in the tail section in the light pod.
4. I used the 1st cylinder on the right side to connect the cruise to.
5. Mount the control head on the dash somewhere. Remember they are not water proof so try and get it under the windscreen.
6. There is a bolt hole on the frame on the left side of the bike, use this to mount the linkage adjustment bracket.
7. You connect the servo to the left side of the bike because the pull is on that side.
8. I used the L bracket and connced it to the factory linkage on the left, there is a screw you can take out to connect the bracket to.
9. install the vacuum canister and run a jumper vacuum hose from the servo to the canister, I ran it way back in the back of the storage area...
10. T Into a vacuum line and run it back to the vacuum canister, remember you can connect the vacuum up backwards.
11. You must install a relay that basically breaks ground so that you when you hit the brake the cruise shuts off. If you connect the cruise like the manual says and don't put a relay or a load resistor then the cruise will not shut off when you hit the brakes. The reason this has to be done is because of the low voltage pull on a Gen II with the LED lighs...
On the tail you will have to grind a little to get a good fit.
Last edited:
Great post Captain, thanks a ton. I do have 2 quick questions though.
1. Do you have any pictures of the factory linkage that you could post up? I think this is where a few of us are concerned about safety and getting the install right.
2. Which color wire in the tail did you connect to to get a "brake on" signal to the relay, then to the servo?
1. Do you have any pictures of the factory linkage that you could post up? I think this is where a few of us are concerned about safety and getting the install right.
2. Which color wire in the tail did you connect to to get a "brake on" signal to the relay, then to the servo?
rusheriv
Registered
efiguero - I'm doing a GenI install, so I don't know that pics and notes from my install will help you. From what Cap posted above, the only difference I see is the servo unit is mounted on the left, inline with the GenII throttle linkage (GenI linkage is on the right).
I think I've read every post here about the CCS-100 and everyone has a slight veriation to accommodate other mods or mounting preferences, but the basics are all the same.
I haven't really gotten into it yet, but the kit from Murph looks like it has everything you'd need plus they have the vacuum canister and relay for an extra $15.
I think I've read every post here about the CCS-100 and everyone has a slight veriation to accommodate other mods or mounting preferences, but the basics are all the same.
I haven't really gotten into it yet, but the kit from Murph looks like it has everything you'd need plus they have the vacuum canister and relay for an extra $15.
SOMET POINTS I REMEMBER.
Make sure you set the dip switches correctly.
Remember this about testing the wiring on the CC.
DO NOT USE A TEST LAMP. YOU NEED A METER (LCD preferred)
All four coil wires have a gray wire and another color wire. You can use any of the coils, as long as it is not a gray wire.
Cut off and tape the VSS wires, you will not need them with the coil wire hook up.
Remember when you set the cruise in this configuration, the CC is using engine RPM not the speedometer. If you set the cruise in one gear and disable the cruise with the clutch or brake (when resume can be used) (prior speed set in memory) make sure you activate the resume function in the same gear!!! Setting CC in 3, 4, or 5th, and then you you shift to a higher gear...... the CC is looking for the RPM in the lower gear and your speed will go off the scale. Just turn off the CC and back on again in the higher or 6th gear. For most this is not a problem. But it something you should know.
The CC linkage must be adjusted with little or no slack. The more play slack in the beaded linkage will result in the CC taking longer to pick up and hold the desired speed.
When you test the CC, it has to tested on the road with a load on the drive train and the brake lamp shut off connected properly. Test on an open road with no traffic.
Use silicon to seal the CC switch buttons. There are examples on the internet.
Those are just a couple things I remember that might help. On a scale of one to ten on the difficulty scale, it can be a 4 to 10, depending on your level of research and if it is the first one you are installing. It is time consuming and cannot be rushed. Read all you can about it.
Make sure you set the dip switches correctly.
Remember this about testing the wiring on the CC.
DO NOT USE A TEST LAMP. YOU NEED A METER (LCD preferred)
All four coil wires have a gray wire and another color wire. You can use any of the coils, as long as it is not a gray wire.
Cut off and tape the VSS wires, you will not need them with the coil wire hook up.
Remember when you set the cruise in this configuration, the CC is using engine RPM not the speedometer. If you set the cruise in one gear and disable the cruise with the clutch or brake (when resume can be used) (prior speed set in memory) make sure you activate the resume function in the same gear!!! Setting CC in 3, 4, or 5th, and then you you shift to a higher gear...... the CC is looking for the RPM in the lower gear and your speed will go off the scale. Just turn off the CC and back on again in the higher or 6th gear. For most this is not a problem. But it something you should know.
The CC linkage must be adjusted with little or no slack. The more play slack in the beaded linkage will result in the CC taking longer to pick up and hold the desired speed.
When you test the CC, it has to tested on the road with a load on the drive train and the brake lamp shut off connected properly. Test on an open road with no traffic.
Use silicon to seal the CC switch buttons. There are examples on the internet.
Those are just a couple things I remember that might help. On a scale of one to ten on the difficulty scale, it can be a 4 to 10, depending on your level of research and if it is the first one you are installing. It is time consuming and cannot be rushed. Read all you can about it.
Last edited:
Thanks to both of you for posting info. Each time you guys provide us info, it gets that much easier. I will be doing this mod next month for sure. The CCS-100 has been in my basement for almost a year now.
Maybe some one else who has done the mod will chime in about a confirmation on the wire color for brake light and a picture of the OEM linkage.
Other than that, I plan to use the dip switch settings that were in the Gen I install and see how it goes.
Maybe some one else who has done the mod will chime in about a confirmation on the wire color for brake light and a picture of the OEM linkage.
Other than that, I plan to use the dip switch settings that were in the Gen I install and see how it goes.
On a Gen II if I am not mistaken there is a screw you can use right on the FI that will let you put the L bracket that comes with the kit right onto it. The Gen I you have to use something else. When we put Semi's on we used the loop connector and made a clip to keep it from sliding off.... The Gen II was much easier.
The plan was to get ours done and work out all the kinks then do a 3rd install on someone elses bike and do the write up with lots of pics and how long to cut wires. Just after we finished mine the news came out that the units were unavailable and that kept us from doing a full write up...
we can answer questions all day though....
Efiguero, it could be a while yet as the weather is still not too cold to ride in Georgia. Also, I have another certification to study for, but I will do one eventually.
In the mean time, I am hoping that we get a picture of the linkage and a clear idea of what color wire to tap into for the brake light.
My 120 mile round trip ride will be much easier with the CCS-100, that is for sure.
In the mean time, I am hoping that we get a picture of the linkage and a clear idea of what color wire to tap into for the brake light.
My 120 mile round trip ride will be much easier with the CCS-100, that is for sure.
rusheriv
Registered
Sous - I checked the wiring diagram for the GenII and the brake switch wire is the same as the GenI, that being White with Black stripe.
I didn't dawn on me when I replied above that the GenII doesn't have a fast idle (manual choke), so I don't know what those guys used to attach the servo to on the throttle linkage. Maybe that's what Cap was alluding to ...
I didn't dawn on me when I replied above that the GenII doesn't have a fast idle (manual choke), so I don't know what those guys used to attach the servo to on the throttle linkage. Maybe that's what Cap was alluding to ...
rusheriv
Registered
The holidays and my insatiable procrastinating has my cruise control still sitting in the box. But, believe it or not I am making some progress on the project.
For some reason I can't bring myself to hack/splice into the stock wiring so I'm looking to order these pigtail connectors to tap into the coil and brake light circuits.
I figure with these I can tap or splice and solder all I want.
Makes for a cleaner install and essentially a plug 'n play system. Then if it becomes necessary to take it off all I've gotta do is remove a couple bolts and unplug it.
For some reason I can't bring myself to hack/splice into the stock wiring so I'm looking to order these pigtail connectors to tap into the coil and brake light circuits.
I figure with these I can tap or splice and solder all I want.
Makes for a cleaner install and essentially a plug 'n play system. Then if it becomes necessary to take it off all I've gotta do is remove a couple bolts and unplug it.
Similar threads
