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RiBusa,
Once the temp gauge hits 1/2-2/3 the fan should come on and STAY on till it drops below 1/2 again. My busa comes on @ 1/2, and will stay on until the temp drops below 1/2. If you fan is NOT staying on after 1/2-2/3 then you have a problem with the thermo switch/fan relay system, low coolant level, or too much air in the system. You should NOT need to use a coolant additive to keep a stock bike cool @ idle, IMO.
There was a thread on this a few months ago, with similar symptoms. I listed a complete troubleshooting list for the thermo switch/ fan relay setup. Never heard back again from the guy so I guess he fixed it. Read this...
Dave
Once the temp gauge hits 1/2-2/3 the fan should come on and STAY on till it drops below 1/2 again. My busa comes on @ 1/2, and will stay on until the temp drops below 1/2. If you fan is NOT staying on after 1/2-2/3 then you have a problem with the thermo switch/fan relay system, low coolant level, or too much air in the system. You should NOT need to use a coolant additive to keep a stock bike cool @ idle, IMO.
There was a thread on this a few months ago, with similar symptoms. I listed a complete troubleshooting list for the thermo switch/ fan relay setup. Never heard back again from the guy so I guess he fixed it. Read this...
Dave
OB_SlowHand
Registered
This is not precisely on topic, but it's close. Someone mentioned using Prestone. That is a definite NO-NO with a motorcycle.
Automotive coolants contain a small amount of abrasive material in suspension to keep gunk from building up in the system. It works well in cars, and it's probably a good idea since cooling systems on cars are often neglected.
Some people thought that if it was a good idea for cars, it would work well for bikes.
The first bikes to have trouble were the Gold Wings, because of the high miles they stack up.Prestone was specifically mentioned. Then other bikes started having trouble.
It seems that the abrasive wipes out the water pump seals on bikes, which are much more delicate than those on cars.
This was first reported about 10 years ago.Motorcycle-specific coolants don't contain the abrasive. A low mileage sport bike might not have trouble, but I'm taking no chances. Besides, I put on a lot of miles.
Automotive coolants contain a small amount of abrasive material in suspension to keep gunk from building up in the system. It works well in cars, and it's probably a good idea since cooling systems on cars are often neglected.
Some people thought that if it was a good idea for cars, it would work well for bikes.
The first bikes to have trouble were the Gold Wings, because of the high miles they stack up.Prestone was specifically mentioned. Then other bikes started having trouble.
It seems that the abrasive wipes out the water pump seals on bikes, which are much more delicate than those on cars.
This was first reported about 10 years ago.Motorcycle-specific coolants don't contain the abrasive. A low mileage sport bike might not have trouble, but I'm taking no chances. Besides, I put on a lot of miles.
G
Guest
My bike runs with the needle about the width of the needle below half way mark. Fan kicks on about same distance above half way mark and back off at half way mark. Even in heavy traffic never been above 3/4. Running coolant it came with. Jack
OB_NumbNuts
Registered
Hey Tangram, I couldn't even see the keyboard last night let alone put a hand in my eye!!
Good ole'boy!! keep on Quaffing!!
Stay Pissed
NumbNuts
Good ole'boy!! keep on Quaffing!!
Stay Pissed
NumbNuts
OB_GSX1360R
Registered
To hell with the Evans... I'm glad I haven't installed it yet 'cause this stuff sounds like the only benefit is that it has a higher boiling point than antifreeze. I'm looking for a coolant that will keep operating temps to a minimum not run well at 300 degrees...
OB_Fast_Eddie
Registered
I think there are more benefits than just that Gixxer, and your missing the point of this stuff.
The bike fan is set to come on at a predetermined range on the bike, so it's a moot point where the boiling point is. Your cooling system is still going to maintain its current operating temp.
One good thing I can see about this stuff is that if the bike does overheat, it won't blow it's load all over the street because it wont boil over until almost 370 degrees (187 C).
The kicker about this stuff, IMHO, is that it is a lifetime coolant, requires no mixing, contains no abrasives, and requires no coolant system pressure. There is no water in the stuff, therfore there will be no vapor in the system making the coolant have constant contact with the metal in the water jackets of the motor. It's more efficient thats all.
As far as the other poster in the boards that claimed "a friend" using it got 38 degree's higher temps with the evans...sounds like he didn't burp the system and has air in it somewhere.
If you want a better opinion of this stuff, ask Don Smith on these boards.
A bitchin' pic' of his bike is here:
http://www.evanscooling.com/main27.htm
The bike fan is set to come on at a predetermined range on the bike, so it's a moot point where the boiling point is. Your cooling system is still going to maintain its current operating temp.
One good thing I can see about this stuff is that if the bike does overheat, it won't blow it's load all over the street because it wont boil over until almost 370 degrees (187 C).
The kicker about this stuff, IMHO, is that it is a lifetime coolant, requires no mixing, contains no abrasives, and requires no coolant system pressure. There is no water in the stuff, therfore there will be no vapor in the system making the coolant have constant contact with the metal in the water jackets of the motor. It's more efficient thats all.
As far as the other poster in the boards that claimed "a friend" using it got 38 degree's higher temps with the evans...sounds like he didn't burp the system and has air in it somewhere.
If you want a better opinion of this stuff, ask Don Smith on these boards.
A bitchin' pic' of his bike is here:
http://www.evanscooling.com/main27.htm
Dave O,
I think that was my thread you were referring to a couple months back, "Dillema in Daytona". All of the suggestions I received were much appreciated. Factory reps handled the whole situation very professionally and assured me the bike would be fixed regardless of the problem. They did take their time, 3 weeks, but all bases were covered.
Turns out the main computer was bad. Affected fuel system mainly, which in turn screwed up many other things. Changed thermostat, thermoswitch and flushed system just to be sure and new plugs. Runs great now but bought the ext. warr. just to cover myself.
Sorry I never responded but by the time it was fixed I was sure no one would remember.
GP
I think that was my thread you were referring to a couple months back, "Dillema in Daytona". All of the suggestions I received were much appreciated. Factory reps handled the whole situation very professionally and assured me the bike would be fixed regardless of the problem. They did take their time, 3 weeks, but all bases were covered.
Turns out the main computer was bad. Affected fuel system mainly, which in turn screwed up many other things. Changed thermostat, thermoswitch and flushed system just to be sure and new plugs. Runs great now but bought the ext. warr. just to cover myself.
Sorry I never responded but by the time it was fixed I was sure no one would remember.
GP
G
Guest
Tried restricting by-pass hose today. Got a piece of brass about 1" long that had a 3/16" orifice in it. Took down the OD to about 5/16" so I could slip it inside my by-pass hose. Thought I was on to something because the temp gage seemed to stay centered longer. But then it started to "ratchet" its temperature up to the point the temp light came on. I completely agree with everyone that says it sounds like air in the system. I just can't seem to find it. The fan is cycling on and off but not staying on long enough for temp to drop back to middle of gage. Wonder if its a case of the right hand not knowing what the left is doing, meaning is the temp gage reading off the temp sender on the back of the block and the fan reading off the cooling fan thermo switch in the radiator? What do you think? For now I just ran to radio shack and installed a switch so I can override the fan switch and keep it on constantly when the gage is above halfway.
OB_NumbNuts
Registered
I think you got air in your rad (or sh1t) around the fan switch. If it keeps cycling on and off and the temp rises, this is where I would look. Don't know about bikes but many many years experience with cars..............
Just a thought here (maybe JC would like to comment) all that white sh1t that we are all seeming to get in the expansion bottle, if this was to somehow get lodged in the rad..........
Maybe take hoses off rad and backflush. That should do the trick. Might be inclined to do the whole system backflush if it were me and I had the hoses off the rad anyway...
Hope this helps.
Stay Safe
NumbNuts
Just a thought here (maybe JC would like to comment) all that white sh1t that we are all seeming to get in the expansion bottle, if this was to somehow get lodged in the rad..........
Maybe take hoses off rad and backflush. That should do the trick. Might be inclined to do the whole system backflush if it were me and I had the hoses off the rad anyway...
Hope this helps.
Stay Safe
NumbNuts
OB_Hayawiz
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Always trust Johnny,Frank & Motorhead. The best people ive seen so far for Facts not guess work!
OB_sporttourer
Registered
I would test the temperature sensor that switches the fan on and off, and any other component related to that electrical circuit to verify the fan consistantly operates in the specified temperature range.
OB_THE MOTORHEAD
Registered
I REMOVED MY THERMASTAT THE OTHER DAY ON MINE.REMEMBER IF EVANS DOES NOT STEAM POCKET IT WILL PICK UP MORE HEAT FROM YOUR MOTOR AND HENCE THE HIGHER COOLANT READINGS.I GOT INTO THE RED TWICE IN ABOUT 15 MIN OF NON MOVING TRAFFIC.BUT NEVER DID IT GO DEEP INTO THE RED.DID YOU RUN THE EVANS IN YOUR SYSTEM THE DUMP AND REINSTALL AS DIRECTED?YOU NEEDED 1 1/2 GALLONS TO DO IT
[This message has been edited by THE MOTORHEAD (edited 18 June 2000).]
[This message has been edited by THE MOTORHEAD (edited 18 June 2000).]
As soon as I got my new 750 I drained it and added Evans. After a few days of riding I noticed that the bike was running in the 195 range (the 750 has a digital guage so it is a lot more accurate and easier to compare than the busa dial guage) while running down the road. Yes I flushed it twice, burped it etc etc. No the blades are not melted so I am strictly comparing Evans to stock.
So after a days ride and running on the hwy at 70 mph (189-191 running temp)I came home cooled the bike and drained it, flushed it and added Prestone extended life ( which is silica, phosphate free) at 50/50.Then I ran on the same road at the same speed etc. The bike now runs 171-174 temp. Outside temp the same. Same day same road same everything. And the bike was warmed fully before I began the test ride too.
That is a BIG difference. The only thing I can figure is that the viscosity of the Evans is higher resulting in less pumping VOLUME by the water pump.
Any other ideas anyone?
don
roaddog
So after a days ride and running on the hwy at 70 mph (189-191 running temp)I came home cooled the bike and drained it, flushed it and added Prestone extended life ( which is silica, phosphate free) at 50/50.Then I ran on the same road at the same speed etc. The bike now runs 171-174 temp. Outside temp the same. Same day same road same everything. And the bike was warmed fully before I began the test ride too.
That is a BIG difference. The only thing I can figure is that the viscosity of the Evans is higher resulting in less pumping VOLUME by the water pump.
Any other ideas anyone?
don
roaddog
OB_Johnnycheese
Registered
This is my .02.
(thanks for the report Don)
I agree with Motorhead the stuff is not make to boil over. the best stuff to keep you bike cool is Distilled water and waterpump lubercant,But it can get so hot in traffic that it will boil out,
I think it is a trade off it runs a little hotter but no boil over VS. runs cooler and runs the risk of boil over.
(thanks for the report Don)
I agree with Motorhead the stuff is not make to boil over. the best stuff to keep you bike cool is Distilled water and waterpump lubercant,But it can get so hot in traffic that it will boil out,
I think it is a trade off it runs a little hotter but no boil over VS. runs cooler and runs the risk of boil over.
OB_THE MOTORHEAD
Registered
but is it that evans does not disipate as efficiently or does evans absorb more heat from the motor therefore show more coolant temp?you need to install an oil temp guage to find the real truth as to which is true.the oil temp is what really matters!!!
OB_THE MOTORHEAD
Registered
with the water wetter min showed cooler temp but i realy don't think it realy ran cooler.it would puke coolant on the dyno and not show an elevated temperature.this tells me this is going to be another debateable topic till someone installs an oil temp guage.oil temp is what count a lot guys
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