GSXRme
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LOL... I'm thinking nope
Pair Valve mod
- Thread starter Kento-Moto
- Start date
Cookie
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(The Big Red One @ Jan. 14 2006,19:08)Yep they call it the sucker mod...no pun intendedI read about it somewhere..its suppose to give you negative crankcase pressure so the motor will spin up that much easier. The results seemed kind of debatable tho. Do a search on it and see what you can find...
Correct, Big Red One! The draw from the pump will create negative pressure and will actually "help" the pistons rotate downward and in turn help seal the rings and prevent flutter at higher speeds.
CLARIFICATION - There will always be this confusion attached to the PAIR VALVE; there are two options available!
There is is only one 'Pair Valve' MOD!
There is only one 'Pair Valve' BLOCK-OFF!
They are not the same. They are both truly modification's, however, THE 'MOD' is a modification and re-routing of lines increasing the efficiency of the pump in reverse order and the 'Block-Off' is merely a removal of the whole system. If you install and "aftermarket" exhaust and do not block off and remap,, you will develop improper back pressure and most likely blow flames on throttle down decelerations.
1) Pair Valve Removal and Block Off (which is NOT the mod. It is simply a removal and blockage) Removal of known horsepower.
Step one; Remove all of the 'Pair Valve' system and block the four ports into the head and block the intake lead into the airbox. Done! Remap and you are set.
2) Pair Valve Crankcase Sucker ('PCS MOD')
Step one; Remove the larger line that is coming FROM the 'pair valve' that goes to the bottom of the air box (recirculating spent gasses back INTO the air/fuel system)
Step Two; Connect a male-to-male joint from the larger line from PV to a none-collapsible hose that you will then
Step Three; connect to the Crankcase vent where single hose was to bottom of air box.
Step Four; block with plugs/cap the inlet on the bottom of the airbox that the crankcase went too!
Actually, re-mapping is not imperative for this MOD! Although, if you are like me, always staying on top of the curve is best,, so re-map away, but again and some may disagree, but not absolutely necessary.
Pair "mod" will pull about 4 to 7 inches of vac. Nothing like the pumps but enough to make a difference. Several people have done the dyno test and most say anywhere from 1 to 5 HP. I'm sure it helps with the ring sealing and cuts the "pumping loss" somewhat.
[/Quote]
I have seen the before and after dyno sheets on a 1397cc Hayabusa a few years back that showed increases of 5-6hp from hooking up the PCS MOD.
Back in early 2001 my friend Mark Feuerborn (Buster @ NorthWestDragBike ) while checking base numbers after a 1397 build had made his base run, ran the first set of numbers. While trying different maps, then thought it would be a good time to try routing the hoses from the 'Pair Valve' and to the Crankcase. While the dyno technician was out on a break,,, the tech returned and made another measured run, he was astounded and asked, "What did you do, Mark?!",,, "the numbers are notably higher!" Of course Mark showed him. He was totally surprised that the mere re-routing of hoses could yield suck increases!
After telling me this story, he helped me connect the lines up the way he had them to my,, then stock Hayabusa, and I could not believe the difference in performance. The front wheel came up with ease and the acceleration was much more crisp!
This is an 'Old Time Racer's' trick that has been around a long time, guys. No real science here. SchnitzRacing, for a while, sold a pump for about $235.00 that you can upgrade too and increase your hp gains. For whatever reason, they discontinued the sales.
Hmm, maybe people realized that they were selling what people already had on their bikes,,, for FREE!
Keep in mind - There is controversy associated with this MOD. Usually, those that choose to run with the PCS MOD usually keep to themselves and don't broadcast the fact that they DO run with it. The others,,, clearly do not.
I will be spending time on the dyno this Spring and plan to run base runs before the PCS hook up and after to have on paper showing the positive gains.
I will post the readings then for those who wish to see.
In the beginning of the Hayabusa when everyone was tweaking and going through the first discoveries this topic was exhausted on multiple boards. Time evolves, topics change, information gets lost.
The naysayers can say what they will, but the proof is there and has always been there. Throw away horsepower if you will. I refuse to give an edge away based off of fear!
I can walk anyone through the proper connections.
Expect 2-3 hp increase with stock - no matter what mods
Expect 4-6 hp increase with big-block
Well my cheap a55 well be having some fun in the garage with Medusa doing the GXstacy DIY block off, saving myself a couple of coins. Still waiting on Chris (Gxstacy) to tell me extactly what (materials gauge thickness) I need to do the job correctly.
C'mon Chris, I'm turning blue over here ?
C'mon Chris, I'm turning blue over here ?
For the crank vent, I'll be following the Man with the plan advice (Warbaby) and installing a K&N mini filter for the crankcase vent after PAIR removal.
Photo provided by Warbaby @Veltune.com
Photo provided by Warbaby @Veltune.com
E-RACER
Registered
Cookie is right!!
And I refer it to the PAIR Sucker mod so if thats the one You want theres no confusion....,I ran it on all My bike and they were above avarage in HP et mph ect..
a few extra cheap easy HP is always good!!!!!!!
so theres the>
Ball bearing mod
Pair removal mod
the crushing the pipes shut mod
Sucker mod
Just to clear a few up..
And I refer it to the PAIR Sucker mod so if thats the one You want theres no confusion....,I ran it on all My bike and they were above avarage in HP et mph ect..
a few extra cheap easy HP is always good!!!!!!!
so theres the>
Ball bearing mod
Pair removal mod
the crushing the pipes shut mod
Sucker mod
Just to clear a few up..
Cookie
Registered
Thanks Eddie, for your OG real world seat-of-the-pants opinion!(E-RACER @ Dec. 25 2006,00:02) Cookie is right!!
And I refer it to the PAIR Sucker mod so if thats the one You want theres no confusion....,I ran it on all My bike and they were above avarage in HP et mph ect..
a few extra cheap easy HP is always good!!!!!!!
so theres the>
Ball bearing mod
Pair removal mod
the crushing the pipes shut mod
Sucker mod
Just to clear a few up..
hayabusa99b/w
Registered
looks like work!
billb59
Registered
(Cookie @ Dec. 23 2006,20:39)great reading and want to try it on mine Crankcase evac from pair... just bought a FULL TITANIUM Racing exhaust SYSTEM with the SUMO Titanium Canister and have the bike ripped down. Also have the K&N race filter but all else is pretty much stock except for a FuelMoto TRE.... oh yeah... bought the APE block offs as well.Just a note to anyone interested, pcv will decrease pressure on the backside of the rings which will keep them from fluttering at high rev's (thus allowing them to keep a good seal) Sooo, quite possible letting the Pair setup evacuate the case may help do this.
I can walk anyone through the proper connections.
Expect 2-3 hp increase with stock - no matter what mods
Expect 4-6 hp increase with big-block
What's the plan Cookie... How do I do it? Any pics and stuff? Can you walk me through the proper connections?
Thanks a ton!
BillB
had my micron 4-1 with pcIII installed at dealer when purchased bike. the dealership is'nt allowed to remove PAIR valve system by law and would'nt. was going to remove myself but now i'm going to reroute as per your post cookie.
good info all [as usual].
thanks.
good info all [as usual].
thanks.
bump
bump
The "Pair Valve Mod" should not be confused with the "Pair Valve Removal", which is what you and I did.(Tango1300 @ Mar. 07 2007,10:46) When I bought my TiForce exhaust from Charles at Street & track... he included the PAIR block-offs. I did it strictly for the removal of weight and the backfiring I was getting after drilling the stock cans.
the mod is good the removal just helps with clearance
Cookie
Registered
Once again, someone didn't evidently read the whole thread.(thebbbusa @ Mar. 07 2007,08:34)The "Pair Valve Mod" should not be confused with the "Pair Valve Removal", which is what you and I did.(Tango1300 @ Mar. 07 2007,10:46) When I bought my TiForce exhaust from Charles at Street & track... he included the PAIR block-offs. I did it strictly for the removal of weight and the backfiring I was getting after drilling the stock cans.
(The Big Red One @ Jan. 14 2006,19:08)Yep they call it the sucker mod...no pun intendedI read about it somewhere..its suppose to give you negative crankcase pressure so the motor will spin up that much easier. The results seemed kind of debatable tho. Do a search on it and see what you can find...
Correct, Big Red One! The draw from the pump will create negative pressure and will actually "help" the pistons rotate downward and in turn help seal the rings and prevent flutter at higher speeds.
CLARIFICATION - There will always be this confusion attached to the PAIR VALVE; there are two options available!
There is is only one 'Pair Valve' MOD!
There is only one 'Pair Valve' BLOCK-OFF!
They are not the same. They are both truly modification's, however, THE 'MOD' is a modification and re-routing of lines increasing the efficiency of the pump in reverse order and the 'Block-Off' is merely a removal of the whole system. If you install and "aftermarket" exhaust and do not block off and remap,, you will develop improper back pressure and most likely blow flames on throttle down decelerations.
1) Pair Valve Removal and Block Off (which is NOT the mod. It is simply a removal and blockage) Removal of known horsepower.
Step one; Remove all of the 'Pair Valve' system and block the four ports into the head and block the intake lead into the airbox. Done! Remap and you are set.
2) Pair Valve Crankcase Sucker ('PCS MOD')
Step one; Remove the larger line that is coming FROM the 'pair valve' that goes to the bottom of the air box (recirculating spent gasses back INTO the air/fuel system)
Step Two; Connect a male-to-male joint from the larger line from PV to a none-collapsible hose that you will then
Step Three; connect to the Crankcase vent where single hose was to bottom of air box.
Step Four; block with plugs/cap the inlet on the bottom of the airbox that the crankcase went too!
Actually, re-mapping is not imperative for this MOD! Although, if you are like me, always staying on top of the curve is best,, so re-map away, but again and some may disagree, but not absolutely necessary.
Pair "mod" will pull about 4 to 7 inches of vac. Nothing like the pumps but enough to make a difference. Several people have done the dyno test and most say anywhere from 1 to 5 HP. I'm sure it helps with the ring sealing and cuts the "pumping loss" somewhat.
[/Quote]
I have seen the before and after dyno sheets on a 1397cc Hayabusa a few years back that showed increases of 5-6hp from hooking up the PCS MOD.
Back in early 2001 my friend Mark Feuerborn (Buster @ NorthWestDragBike ) while checking base numbers after a 1397 build had made his base run, ran the first set of numbers. While trying different maps, then thought it would be a good time to try routing the hoses from the 'Pair Valve' and to the Crankcase. While the dyno technician was out on a break,,, the tech returned and made another measured run, he was astounded and asked, "What did you do, Mark?!",,, "the numbers are notably higher!" Of course Mark showed him. He was totally surprised that the mere re-routing of hoses could yield suck increases!
After telling me this story, he helped me connect the lines up the way he had them to my,, then stock Hayabusa, and I could not believe the difference in performance. The front wheel came up with ease and the acceleration was much more crisp!
This is an 'Old Time Racer's' trick that has been around a long time, guys. No real science here. SchnitzRacing, for a while, sold a pump for about $235.00 that you can upgrade too and increase your hp gains. For whatever reason, they discontinued the sales.
Hmm, maybe people realized that they were selling what people already had on their bikes,,, for FREE!
Keep in mind - There is controversy associated with this MOD. Usually, those that choose to run with the PCS MOD usually keep to themselves and don't broadcast the fact that they DO run with it. The others,,, clearly do not.
I will be spending time on the dyno this Spring and plan to run base runs before the PCS hook up and after to have on paper showing the positive gains.
I will post the readings then for those who wish to see.
In the beginning of the Hayabusa when everyone was tweaking and going through the first discoveries this topic was exhausted on multiple boards. Time evolves, topics change, information gets lost.
The naysayers can say what they will, but the proof is there and has always been there. Throw away horsepower if you will. I refuse to give an edge away based off of fear!
I can walk anyone through the proper connections.
Expect 2-3 hp increase with stock - no matter what mods
Expect 4-6 hp increase with big-block
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