Perfect Gearing

[Professor]

If I had to run one all the time it would be a 17/42-43.  The 18/42-43 would have an advantage of being a bit easier on the chain. But would perform almost identical to the 17/40.  The 18/43 would require a 114 link chain instead of the earlier 112 link.  

Professor - if you had to pick between 17/42 or 17/43 for both street and track which one would you pick and why?  Thanks.

Hmmm"¦.. One gear for both street or strip. I guess it would depend on how you ride it. If you put quite a few miles on the bike weekly on the highway I'd lean toward the 17/42. If the strip is more of a priority the 17/43. There really is not a bunch of different between the two however. The 17/42 is a 2.47 ratio, the 17/43 is a 2.53 ratio. A 16/40 will put you in the middle of the two with a 2.5 ratio. It would also be a good choice but might be a little harder on the chains. With a good quality chain it should not be a problem. It would also give you about ½-3/4 inch more wheelbase which would be an advantage at the track if you are running a stock swingarm.


I may have just made it more confusing to you. You really have to pick what fits best for you. Some do not mind the 5000 rpm 80 mph buzz going down the interstate a 16/43 will give you. I don't like it, and the 17/40 tames the hit in the tight stuff. May be a bandaid on my riding style in the curves, but it works for me.

 

[Professor]

i went with 16/42 but i'm being told now that i should have went with 16/45 is that true?  I use my busa for street and drag righ now, but i'm trying to get it setup for race only.  Then go buy another busa for the street or at least a new engine.

Depends"¦.. your MPH will be a factor, as well as the wheelbase and your riding style.

If you have a fairly stock bike and the mph is 138-140 a 16/45 will put you in 5th gear instead of the top of 4the. It is also going to launch a bit different from the adding gearing. It is also going to have to make an extra shift. A 16/45 might not fit the stock chain/arm. If your mph is in the 138-140 a 16/46 may be a better choice.

So it really depends on what you have and what you intend to update to.
What MPH are you running now?

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

I run 17/37.

Hey Professor,
IF I can pull the limiter tp 11,200, what mph will that net me?

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

I'm actually thinking of getting a 38 or a 37 (if I can find one) for the street.

Charles, at Street n Track can get what you need.

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

So where can I get a spare cush drive?

This cat right here can get you some aftermarket cush drive rubbers that will last!

http://boostbysmith.com/

 

[Professor]

I run 17/37.

Hey Professor,
IF I can pull the limiter tp 11,200, what mph will that net me?

222-225 tire growth and the HP to pull it will come into play.

I'm not sure but I think most guys running those kind of LSR speeds are running 8-12% over 6th gear ratios.

 

[Commuta_Busa]

I run 17/37.

Hey Professor,
IF I can pull the limiter tp 11,200, what mph will that net me?

222-225  tire growth and the HP to pull it will come into play.

I'm not sure but I think most guys running those kind of LSR speeds are running 8-12% over 6th gear ratios.

I only know of two guys running O.D. 6th or 5th & 6th. You need alot of power to pull those OD gears. If you're playing in the <240mph world you really don't need 'em.

Since you're at 17/37 you may be better off going up to an 18 front.

Tire growth/temp is very important at the >200 area. I just found a newer way to combat this but I'm still looking into the details and what sources/vendors there are. I can say one thing, you're better off with alu or mag wheels vs. CF on's when it comes down to controlling tire growth and heat. I'll post more once I know more details

 

[Commuta_Busa]

some how my post and quote got a little botched up and I can't edit it. My message was : I only know of two guys running O.D. 6th or 5th & 6th. You need alot of power to pull those OD gears. If you're playing in the <240mph world you really don't need 'em.

Since you're at 17/37 you may be better off going up to an 18 front.

Tire growth/temp is very important at the >200 area. I just found a newer way to combat this but I'm still looking into the details and what sources/vendors there are. I can say one thing, you're better off with alu or mag wheels vs. CF on's when it comes down to controlling tire growth and heat. I'll post more once I know more details. http://www.fia.com/public/mclaren.pdf

sorry prof.. I didn't intend to put words in your mouth.

 

[Professor]

sorry prof.. I didn't intend to put words in your mouth.  

No problem.... fixed it for you!

 

[Commuta_Busa]

oh sure now it looks like I'm doing double posts...  

thanks though  

 

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

AM -->

1250208[/ATTACH] AM]
So where can I get a spare cush drive?

This cat right here can get you some aftermarket cush drive rubbers that will last!

http://boostbysmith.com/

Here's the direct link.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forums/?act=ST;f=3;t=85695

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

I will be happy with anything over 200 in the mile.
I may not have enough power to pull the limiter with that gearing, especially in the mile.
I may have to grab that darn button.

 

[vin]

Running 17/38, but I had a different desire

I thought about a 17/38, but I was unsure how it would affect canyon runs.  I like the idea of a lower RPM at 90mph since most of my riding is hwy riding, but I do not want to sacrifice too much off the corners.  Do you canyon ride as well?  If so, what have you noticed from 17/38 performance?

 

[Commuta_Busa]

Running 17/38, but I had a different desire

I thought about a 17/38, but I was unsure how it would affect canyon runs.  I like the idea of a lower RPM at 90mph since most of my riding is hwy riding, but I do not want to sacrifice too much off the corners.  Do you canyon ride as well?  If so, what have you noticed from 17/38 performance?

for hwy it's good for loafing along, for corners you've got to carry alot of revs.

 

[topper]

16/44 ftw

 

[EvoMike]

a general rule I learned in my cager(stunting) days:

1 in the front = 2.5 in the rear

 

[Tourbusa1]

Guys, I have the 03 Anniversary Edition. I bought this bike with the PC3 and tre and a 16 in front. It was tuned for Hi elevation and when I got it down here I had a hard time keeping the front end down or roasting the tire. I was getting terrible mileage and the thing was acting like a 600 on roids. I spend 90% on the freeways so I went up to a JP 18 tooth in front and this one change smoothed out this bike to an unreal level. It takes off smooth, shifts at 4000 with out the Two Brothers exhaust getting obnoxious and my mileage is so much better. It feels as smooth now as my 1500 Goldwing was.

 

[Rocketman]

If I put a 42t on the back for now, can I use the stock chain or do I have to put on a brand new one due to the length? I can't wait to feel this new set up since I'm riding at 4k-5k feet asl.

 

[Rocketman]

16/44 ftw

what does ftw mean?

 

[fasttoys1]

I ride fairly hard with some long trips thrown in. I've tried 17/40,42,43 & 16/40,42,43 & 18/40. I like the 17/42 the best. I have a couple spare cush hubs so I keep a 40t mounted for longer rides. Sometimes I'll run the 40t till I get there and swap out for the 42t. Put the 40t bach on and ship the 42t hub back home in a flat rate $8.00 box. I know, seems like a lot of hassle for 02t. I've gone 17/40, than 16/40 there. but that is as big a pain. I just like the feel and response of the 17/42. It's just a little anoying if your doing 8-900 a day on the Interstate for a couple of days there and back. Seems to be a buzz spot in where I cruise. Wanted to try 18/39 on the I, then be able to switch to 17/42 but never did. Too much work. Just some thoughts.