Piston rings failed to seat

Hayabusa Wannabe said:
Porsches are factory filled with the same Mobil 1 oil that we can buy, and Porsche even requires a fairly long break-in.

In that light I suggest that you follow @ColdBusa's advice and fill the engine with the high quality motorcycle oil that you use to maintain your bikes. Never again be distracted by the myth of "break-in oil."

Hopefully you identified the very specific reasons why the build did not work right, but those reasons do not include the oil selection. Oil cannot and will not prevent an engine from seating.
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I guess it depends..
For a road style, brand new, built/rebuilt engine, I would never, ever use full syn on initial run or first use. It’s too slippery to allow full bedding of engine components.
99% of new cars come filled with syn oil because the engine has had the initial break in at the factory before being fitted to the car.
 
ottafish said:
I guess it depends..
For a road style, brand new, built/rebuilt engine, I would never, ever use full syn on initial run or first use. It’s too slippery to allow full bedding of engine components.
99% of new cars come filled with syn oil because the engine has had the initial break in at the factory before being fitted to the car.
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My truck came with dino oil and I was told I could change to synthetic after the first oil change...which I did...

Same thing as my garden tractor, they recommended 2 dino oil changes before going to synthetic...
 
Do you have a leak-down tester as that really tells more of the story IMO.

Also, it's not the miles, it's the revs under load. Straight line, gradual high rev then off throttle so the piston cools a bit. Repeat that 4-6 times then ride the crap out of it. Rings are literally seated within minutes IMO/IME.
 
I found the problem.. I made a extension tube for my compression tester to fit in the busas narrow motor sparkplug hole. Problem was I didnt install a one-way valve, so basicly the extension tubes volume became a part of the combustion chamber volume... thats why the compression was low. I installed a shrader valve and compression went up to 235psi. Dont know if compression number will go even higher when the bike gets more milage, but for now after just 150kms I am happy with that number..

235psi.jpg
 
Does that mean that perhaps your rings were seated just fine previously and this has been the issue all along? I still recommend a leak-down tester for this motor and any other motor you ever want to get a bit of a story on for bore/valve. A compression test is great for a really quick "do I have a dead hole?" but that's it.

Leak-down is great for rings and valve to seat interface. 2-4% leak is about ideal. The nice part is that you can put your ear up to the exhaust or intake and know instantly where the "leak" is coming from or just a tablespoon of oil down the cylinder if it's not the valves as the oil will help "seal" the rings.

I always recommend a leak-down test after any competitive event. It's super easy and really does help tell the story as you're maximizing performance without tear-downs after each event.
 
jtwrace said:
Does that mean that perhaps your rings were seated just fine previously and this has been the issue all along? I still recommend a leak-down tester for this motor and any other motor you ever want to get a bit of a story on for bore/valve. A compression test is great for a really quick "do I have a dead hole?" but that's it.

Leak-down is great for rings and valve to seat interface. 2-4% leak is about ideal. The nice part is that you can put your ear up to the exhaust or intake and know instantly where the "leak" is coming from or just a tablespoon of oil down the cylinder if it's not the valves as the oil will help "seal" the rings.

I always recommend a leak-down test after any competitive event. It's super easy and really does help tell the story as you're maximizing performance without tear-downs after each event.
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Yes, I think the old rings where seated just fine.. I have placed an order for a leak-down tester. I dont think I have any leaks now, but I would be nice to be sure, and a good tool have available.
Mabye this scenario killed the piston ring break-in myth. First set of rings where broken in the worst possible way, second ring set "the right way" and compression ended up at 200(235)psi in both cases.
 
Leak the motor and if it’s between 2-4% on all cylinders, put it back on the dyno and see what u get. Maybe you’ll find your 5hp
 
I got the leak down tester. I shows 5% on all cylinders. You can hear small amount of air escaping through cranckcase evaq hose, but valves seems ok. I think the motor is fine, compression is up to 265psi on a cold engine, which is enough to make me happy.
 
jumjum01 said:
I found the problem.. I made a extension tube for my compression tester to fit in the busas narrow motor sparkplug hole. Problem was I didnt install a one-way valve, so basicly the extension tubes volume became a part of the combustion chamber volume... thats why the compression was low. I installed a shrader valve and compression went up to 235psi. Dont know if compression number will go even higher when the bike gets more milage, but for now after just 150kms I am happy with that number..

View attachment 1652740
Click to expand...
I have this one ends up being two pieces. With o rings holding them together. I always overtightened and the bottom piece stays in the head. How you get that out? Tighten stem more tightens piece in the head. Bad combo I need to fix
 
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