Poor performance from Gen1

[Berlin Germany]

I am looking at getting either a BMC or K&N but they are soooooo expensive here.

what is expensive in your thought ?

for the gen 1, e.g., here in germany the price for a k&n varies between 78 - 90 €, the gen2´s is between 74-85 € both incl. shipping

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

what is expensive in your thought ?

for the gen 1, e.g., here in germany the price for a k&n varies between 78 - 90 €, the gen2´s is between 74-85 € both incl. shipping

My guess would be that shipping is the biggest expense from wherever (any) parts originate to where he is in S. Africa.

 

[Berlin Germany]

I have 2 K&Ns and keep one clean at all times, when I change oil, I put a fresh K&N in and then clean the other one...

yo bee
this way you can be 99.999999999% sure that your air filter never can cause any problems.

but at least with the k&n your way of acting is comparable to using a suspender in addition to a belt.

because:
you can leave a k&n in there for 40,000 km with complete peace of mind until you blow him out with compressed air and then leave him alone for the next 40,000 km.
then at 80,000 km you should clean it with the cleaner from k & n and rewet it with their special filter oil, let it "dry off" and then reinstall it.

that's how i do it and I've never had any problems, no matter where a k&n has been used so far.

so much for reassurance for you and everyone else.

and to all those who fear with a standard! k&n the engine could become lean and thus get a combustion that is much too hot,
i can personally give the absolute all-clear,
because the amount of air that the filter (when clean) can let through (its flow-rate) is always bigger than the amount of air that can go through the ports and throttle valves (carburetors) at all.
(what about the racing - k&n, i have no clue)

the following:
years ago i saw a test setup where you could cover half of the k & n with your hand and still go through 70% of the intake air.

small exception regarding heavy soiling / clogging:
if you have for instance to go through a sandstorm (or similar) with the k&n, you should then blow out the filter with compressed air as a precaution.

regards
the ol´ man from across the pond

 

[Berlin Germany]

My guess would be that shipping is the biggest expense from wherever (any) parts originate to where he is in S. Africa.

yo
the shiping of a 2 kg package from germany to s.a. will cost 17 €
i checked it via a spec. calculator from DHL
plus the price of 72 at a internet shop will summarize to 89 €

but if i take the prices here in germany for papers (e.g. 4 busas) around 26-35 € per piece
and watch also the descripted intervall of 12(-14) 000 km
and the impossibility to clean them properly by compr. air
after the second replacement the permanent k&n (e.g.) price is reached
and afterwards the permanent will cost half an hour and a bit compr. air - both should be available for free, i guess.

so i pers. would allways recommend the k&n only and simply caused by the running costs
on the long(er) view the permanent filter is the cheapest solution - you only have to buy it once
and not every 12k km .

 

[Bumblebee]

yo bee
this way you can be 99.999999999% sure that your air filter never can cause any problems.

but at least with the k&n your way of acting is comparable to using a suspender in addition to a belt.

because:
you can leave a k&n in there for 40,000 km with complete peace of mind until you blow him out with compressed air and then leave him alone for the next 40,000 km.
then at 80,000 km you should clean it with the cleaner from k & n and rewet it with their special filter oil, let it "dry off" and then reinstall it.

that's how i do it and I've never had any problems, no matter where a k&n has been used so far.

so much for reassurance for you and everyone else.

and to all those who fear with a standard! k&n the engine could become lean and thus get a combustion that is much too hot,
i can personally give the absolute all-clear,
because the amount of air that the filter (when clean) can let through (its flow-rate) is always bigger than the amount of air that can go through the ports and throttle valves (carburetors) at all.
(what about the racing - k&n, i have no clue)

the following:
years ago i saw a test setup where you could cover half of the k & n with your hand and still go through 70% of the intake air.

small exception regarding heavy soiling / clogging:
if you have for instance to go through a sandstorm (or similar) with the k&n, you should then blow out the filter with compressed air as a precaution.

regards
the ol´ man from across the pond

I've got a K&N in my pick up truck and do the same...I bought a second filter to change them out. I like to let them sit for a day after I oil them.

The K&N rep who I met in Afghanistan said they actually work better when they get a little dirty..

 

[woodenmonster]

Zero map= OEM map
I would question the shop that built the motor,considering the condition of the basic OEM parts I would be wondering if they did any motor work at all.

also curious how the spark plugs looked............welcome to the board,look forward to seeing your Busa.

There are a lot of questions about the shop that worked on the bike these questions only surfaced after the money was handed over. Yes, I am aware that the Zero map is the OEM map. the guys tried to load a map on the power commander but failed a few times they then said the PC is faulty because they have to start the bike before they are able to load any maps. They did not know that you need external power to load maps, then then they did a few runs and tried to adjust the maps, their next excuse was that the power commander was faulty, and then the shifter caused the issue. long story short they did not want to push the bike over 8000rpm because of my chain having tight spots etc etc. bike started to get hot because they had a little mickey mouse fan. so I just loaded the zero map because with theirs the bike had no power.

 

[woodenmonster]

what is expensive in your thought ?

for the gen 1, e.g., here in germany the price for a k&n varies between 78 - 90 €, the gen2´s is between 74-85 € both incl. shipping

If I convert Rand to Euro it comes to about 170euro which equals the price of a Michelin Road 5 rear tire.

The problem ordering a part from the States / Europe is the shipping and then excise duty on the items and then the 6 to 8 weeks wait.

 

[woodenmonster]

So I took the old lady out for a ride today and I can say she is her old self again. The highway was a bit busy so couldn't really open up but we did 240km/h with very little effort. So the next step is to get the air filter replaced and then get the bike to a shop for a dyno.

 

[jellyrug]

There is a video somewhere from Brock where he says you can’t beat the OEM filter, before he started making money selling Sprint air filters.

Below is a video confirming my personal observations from helping a few friends working on their bikes.

 

[Bumblebee]

There is a video somewhere from Brock where he says you can’t beat the OEM filter, before he started making money selling Sprint air filters.

Below is a video confirming my personal observations from helping a few friends working on their bikes.

The air filter debate ranks up there with the tire debate...there are many advocates for and against...

 

[Vanishing Point]

Just step IN , Did you clean the ultra tiny Pressure valve screen on fuelpump .
99er got a brass pump

? still got the Injector filters in ?

Pictures for some info .
Greets from Tulpcountry , groeten uit Holland

 

[michael parris heuberger]

The air filter debate ranks up there with the tire debate...there are many advocates for and against...

Hi. If you are looking to get high mileage out of the motor go with stock and change it when it needs it more often than Suzuki says. If you want to go fast do not worry that you will not get 100000 out of the motor.

 

[jellyrug]

The air filter debate ranks up there with the tire debate...there are many advocates for and against...

And I guess the oil debate?

Some of us don’t shoot from the hip and form opinions based on gut feel.

I have my oil analyzed and can tell you exactly how Mobil 1 viscosity breaks down compared to something else.

Also, I can tell you exactly what a Busa air box looks like inside after a 10k usage with K&N from personal observation.

 

[Bumblebee]

Hi. If you are looking to get high mileage out of the motor go with stock and change it when it needs it more often than Suzuki says. If you want to go fast do not worry that you will not get 100000 out of the motor.

And I guess the oil debate?

Some of us don’t shoot from the hip and form opinions based on gut feel.

I have my oil analyzed and can tell you exactly how Mobil 1 viscosity breaks down compared to something else.

Also, I can tell you exactly what a Busa air box looks like inside after a 10k usage with K&N from personal observation.

I saw first hand how K&N filters handled the desert and that fine talcum like sand...I figure if it was good enough for our vehicles, it's good enough for mine.

I ride around 4000 kms a year (in a good year) so I change the oil once a year and over-maintain everything else.

 

[jellyrug]

I saw first hand how K&N filters handled the desert and that fine talcum like sand...I figure if it was good enough for our vehicles, it's good enough for mine.

I ride around 4000 kms a year (in a good year) so I change the oil once a year and over-maintain everything else.

What was the desert analysis source?

I had a buddy K&N oil filter disintegrate on his car, besides the dirty air box mentioned above. Two strikes and they are out.

 

[Bumblebee]

What was the desert analysis source?

"Desert Analysis source?"

Beats me, we were in Afghanistan... the trial was between our military techs and K&N techs and some independent lab...all I know is all the techs were using K&Ns when we came home.

 

[Berlin Germany]

View attachment 1632235

View attachment 1632236

and now I'm sneaking into the subject

especially caused by the pics of the so named (by suzuki originally castrated) fuel cock of the ´99 & ´00

try a look for the pics

at my super solution
yes, in deed, i pat myself on the shoulder I think this solution is so cool

at

the cock got its bo..... back / got a handle

I'm curious what you think about it

 

[Berlin Germany]

If I convert Rand to Euro it comes to about 170euro which equals the price of a Michelin Road 5 rear tire.

The problem ordering a part from the States / Europe is the shipping and then excise duty on the items and then the 6 to 8 weeks wait.

???
how that?

if you order the gen1 filter e.g. here at kojak´s shop (kojak = .org member)
the costs would be 80€ + 17 € DHL shiping = 97 € in summ
and the internet calc. say that this would be 1720 ZAR

what will a new paper filter cost ?

and don´t forget the paper is to be replaced every 12 000 km

 

[woodenmonster]

???
how that?

if you order the gen1 filter e.g. here at kojak´s shop (kojak = .org member)
the costs would be 80€ + 17 € DHL shiping = 97 € in summ
and the internet calc. say that this would be 1720 ZAR

what will a new paper filter cost ?

and don´t forget the paper is to be replaced every 12 000 km

That is waaaay cheaper than the stock available here but then I still need to pay excise duty on the item

 

[woodenmonster]

???
how that?

if you order the gen1 filter e.g. here at kojak´s shop (kojak = .org member)
the costs would be 80€ + 17 € DHL shiping = 97 € in summ
and the internet calc. say that this would be 1720 ZAR

what will a new paper filter cost ?

and don´t forget the paper is to be replaced every 12 000 km

There is no option to ship to South Africa, there are a few items he has that I am interested in nearly impossible to find here.