Push Rod Wont Go In

[dave s]

Could it be sprocket cover dowels

 

[ROADTOAD1340]

Not quite sure if this will help now , and I'm definitely one of the non expert type , (maybe like Google mechanic???) but might be good to know anyway . When I bled up the Busa after Brembo clutch M/cyl swap over , I remove sprocket cover , and use an Irwin adjustable quick grip padded clamp , to compress the piston from outside of cover and using a blunt bolt / socket ( socket clamp end ) in place of push rod inside cover , and taking care , compress fully . Obviously the clutch reservoir level was monitored while bleeding the line , and once air free , the push rod and cover replaced and piston DE-compressed and fluid again monitored and topped up as piston slowly pumped pack into position . I know better equipment would of made this job easier , but I use what I got sometimes .... I think a genuine factory manual or the free download Arch mentioned is a very good investment . Good to do what you can , you learn and generally familiarize yourself with your pride and joy , and as the old saying goes , if I pay someone UP TO $120 ( in OZ ) an hour , I expect sexual favors ( at least advice ).... Sometimes though , good to acknowledge your limits , and suck it up and take to someone with a good reputation , motorcycle mechanic and get that tricky job done , and piece of mind .

 

[Mythos]

I just dropped it at the shop. When my mechanic buddy is available we will go back thru and he'll show me what I was doing wrong.

As long as you trust the shop, you can't go wrong there.

I very much doubt there could be anything broken if all you did was remove the cover and slave cylinder. Hope it was just the cylinder popping out which is probably all it is.

Here is what I mean. Pretty much the same technique ROADTOAD up there is describing but I don't have a padded clamp so I use a chunk of cardboard. This is my 14 with slave removed from the sprocket cover. You do not need to remove the slave unless the cover needs to be separated from the bike, you can just let the cover hang on the clutch line. If the slave is removed, I put a C lamp on it to hold the cylinder from pushing out of the back under the pressure in the system. It will push out a little as soon as the clamp is removed but it's not hard to push it right back in.

I don't know if the busa has a similar design but sounds like it does. Probably, if you would have left the slave on the sprocket cover, there is a ridge in the hole the slave goes in that would prevent the cylinder from popping all the way out....or if it came out a quarter inch, you just press it back in before bolting the sprocket cover in place.

Let us know how it turned out.

 

[Mythos]

Brake caliper pistons work the same way. You remove the caliper from the rotor, they often won't go back on the rotor because the pistons tend to extend under the pressure in the brake system. Pull the lever, the pistons may push right out if the brake pads are not in to stop them. Pry them apart with a piece of 1/4" plywood, bolt them on before they expand too much.

 

[Mythos]

Not that I'm an expert but the most impportant piece of advice I can give a beginner is, "DO NOT over-tighten bolts". If a bolt requires anything more than hand tight, use a torque wrench and take the time to check the calibration especially if it was a cheap torque wrench. It's amazing how not tight most bolts are. I often use aluminum bolts and torque them to 50~60% of spec for an OEM steel. They never come out. The only place I ever lost bolts on the busa is the front fender. A bit of locktite is all that takes. Over tightening leads to stetched threads, stripped threads, broken plastic and general nightmares the next time you need to remove it. I'm a "more is better" guy so I remind myself to go easy every time I tighten a bolt.

Also the material you are bolting. Is it plastic, aluminum (most of it is), steel, brass?? does it compress a gasket, o-ring? Hose clamp? Use all you already know about these materials and concentrate on being very sensitive with your hands. You gotta use tools but remember, they are between what you are working on with your own hands. It's like trying to work with boxing gloves on. You must use your brain to feel through the tool and that can be tricky for the most delicate situations so be extra careful there with your tools. Everyone gets fooled once in a great while. That's how you learn. I've had very few problems tightening looser than I think. Fairing bolts are the only ones likely to rattle loose and the busa is pretty bullet proof in that regard.

 

[ali123]

id gladly pay a good mechanic to get something perfect... I spent 20 years struggling with working on bikes/cars... and if anything ever goes wrong... I just bring it back to my builder/mechanic... personally I think frank at powerhouse knows things about the busa that even god doesn't know... and I cant even get him to even recommend any upgrades.. that's honesty.... the last thing I did to my old blue busa was a swingarm... it was such a pain in the ass.. I made my mind up right there... that was the last time I was gonna work on any motorcycle.... or car.

 

[ali123]

id gladly pay a good mechanic to get something perfect... I spent 20 years struggling with working on bikes/cars... and if anything ever goes wrong... I just bring it back to my builder/mechanic... personally I think frank at powerhouse knows things about the busa that even god doesn't know... and I cant even get him to even recommend any upgrades.. that's honesty.... the last thing I did to my old blue busa was a swingarm... it was such a pain in the ass.. I made my mind up right there... that was the last time I was gonna work on any motorcycle.... or car.