Sounds correct, but at 850 km/month average (= 528 miles) I see myself doing 3 maintenance every two years... So far good to buy first quality synthetics when prices drop.
That would be over 12,000 miles.
Sounds correct, but at 850 km/month average (= 528 miles) I see myself doing 3 maintenance every two years... So far good to buy first quality synthetics when prices drop.
Lab? Interesting, I like measurements, let's see where and how much...
My bike stays outside but under a waterproof cover, protected also from the salt they throw against black ice.
What is the relation with the oil quality?
and a good opportunity to remember the periodic system!!!Below is the last oil anyalysis, I guess the last time I changed the oil was 7 years ago. Bike is due for its 15,000 mile service, I will have the oil analysed again this time, but it looks pretty clean in the sight glass.
In short the analysis says no problem with oil sitting in the bike for a long time and suggests I try a 6,000 mile oil change next time.
When your bike sleeps outside and a hot engnine cools down, it breaths and once it has cooled down to a low temperature you will get condensation, which means water in the oil. After a year it will actually show, as the oil in site glass will become cloudy.
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Good stuff sir. Is that slightly elevated Si due to a dusty conditions or free flow filter perhaps?Below is the last oil anyalysis, I guess the last time I changed the oil was 7 years ago. Bike is due for its 15,000 mile service, I will have the oil analysed again this time, but it looks pretty clean in the sight glass.
In short the analysis says no problem with oil sitting in the bike for a long time and suggests I try a 6,000 mile oil change next time.
When your bike sleeps outside and a hot engnine cools down, it breaths and once it has cooled down to a low temperature you will get condensation, which means water in the oil. After a year it will actually show, as the oil in site glass will become cloudy.
BTW, I tried Agip, now ENI and then Mobil 1. Both lost their viscosity below rating pretty fast, within 500 miles, the Sylkolene seems to work just fine, so I will stick with it.
Also BTW, there is no such thing as a true full Synthetic oil, crude oil is still the origin where it starts. The regulations here in the US are a bit more slack than Europe, regarding how extenstively what is called "Synthetic" is processed and the quality of the base oil.
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Bike is bone stock, OEM filters.Good stuff sir. Is that slightly elevated Si due to a dusty conditions or free flow filter perhaps?
You are correct, I misread that as silver instead of Silicon.I believe Si is usually attributed to external contaminants, basically dirt, getting past filters etc. Loads more to oil analysis. I use it for aircraft maintenance tracking and there is far more I don't know than do at this point. Thanks for sharing.
Yes I have. If you read a few posts up, I was not satisfied with Mobil 1 and ENI /Agip.Have you ever changed anything with your bikes oil because of oil analysis?
Lots of Gen1’s with transmission issues.These are state of the art motors that run fine on the OEM oil for decades, if the OEM oil is used and changed at least at the regular intervals, why look at used oil?
For your reference here is a photo 60 miles (Somehow if the weather is nice it alway take longer to get back home...) after the very first oil change:Hello,
My gen3 busa has already 5600 km and I usually spend around four hours per week doing u-turn drills at 1st gear of course.
The picture below of the engine oil window was taken just in the middle of my exercise with the bike very slightly bent to the right, to lean on some fixed obstacle with side-stand stretched out of course ;-)
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The first maintenance was properly done at about 1200 km, if not mistaken.
Now, is the oil too dark? ... meaning need to change asap?
Another question concerns quick shifting: it frequently blinks when operating the clutch to change gears down (approaching lights and so on).
Ignore it or does it mean something?
thank you for your time
I use Suzuki Ecstar R9000 full synthetic so it would be nice to see an oil analysis on it. Sometimes when manufacturers of oil say it meats could also mean it has the minimum required. I don’t ring the life out of my bike so most any quality oil should get me 100,000 miles which I’ll never reach.Has anyone done analysis on Suzuki Oil?
I don’t think anyone else does oil analysis here, regret not sending a sample when I did the first change with the oil the factory put in the bike.I use Suzuki Ecstar R9000 full synthetic so it would be nice to see an oil analysis on it. Sometimes when manufacturers of oil say it meats could also mean it has the minimum required. I don’t ring the life out of my bike so most any quality oil should get me 100,000 miles which I’ll never reach.
That was on a 100k motor. was it not?I don’t think anyone else does oil analysis here, regret not sending a sample when I did the first change with the oil the factory put in the bike.
Will be interesting to see the makeup of the ecstar oil. Send a sample to Blackstone, it is not expensive.
I know there was a member here, long time ago who had high mileage using only Suzuki oil, and when he checked valve clearances he posted pictures of pitting on the camshafts. Think it was a Gen2. I’ll see if I can find the post.
Yep, some got it at 70kThat was on a 100k motor. was it not?
Yours well expected, whereas mine was just 5600-1300=4300 km after previous oil change (1000 km first maintenance)For your reference here is a photo 60 miles (Somehow if the weather is nice it alway take longer to get back home...) after the very first oil change:
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