Questions on lowering the bike

[SANDFLEA85]

Thanks to everyone for welcoming me I know I have a lot of questions but I have nobody to ask in person about this. You guys are my best source.



Why would it be a bad idea? I meant like a smooth, thin sheet of metal or anything that would keep the tire from either burning a hole through the tail or something that wouldn't hurt the tire.

I also understand the idea of needing a stronger spring when creating such leverage. But what exactly is it to revalve?



I pretty much considered the straps because they are affordable, some people I know have them, and I know you can drop the front end pretty good with those. As far as the negative effects go, I really have no idea and I'm glad you can point some out for me. How low exactly can the triple trees go?

From what I have read on these forums, the adjustable turning dog bones are the preferred kind. I'm not sure why but yeah, that's what I was going for. I will look for them on ebay, thanks.



I won't be speeding through twisties or anything. Just casual driving to where I'm going or maybe some 1/4 mile runs.

Thanks to everyone that has helped and welcomed me.

You cant strap it down then, straps are only for the track man, no casual riding with straps

 

[JMB]

You cant strap it down then, straps are only for the track man, no casual riding with straps

Ok, so triple tree is what I need for my kind of riding. Could you explain to me a little more as to why it's good for drag? Just curious.

 

[SANDFLEA85]

I had straps on my 02, +4 over and slammed, when you pull the straps tight to lower the front, just think about what is happening for a sec???? you will be hard pressed to be able to move the front freely as needed to navigate highways and streets.its tight as a banjo, while you can make slight adjustments while running straight to stay straight,thats about it.

the tripple tree will give you what it is your looking for and will perform as the stock tree does, when you lower the bike you will notice turning radius will change for you and when you stretch it,even more.I myself liked the stretched and lowered ride. my 08 is stock height and length presently,it is a totally different ride for sure but I do intend to stretch and slam it before the spring. goodluck,be safe

 

[JMB]

Yeah that makes sense. I know the ride will be much different when lowered and stretched but I'm willing to deal with it.

Also, how low can you go with the triple tree setup?

 

[Zoinks!]

Yeah that makes sense. I know the ride will be much different when lowered and stretched but I'm willing to deal with it.

Also, how low can you go with the triple tree setup?

Basically as far as you can shove the fork through it. I'll put it this way. . . As far as I know, you can lower it enough to make it sit on the ground if you felt like it. If I'm wrong about that, someone will chime in and correct me.

 

[Zoinks!]

Oh, and don't feel bad about playing 20 questions. That's what we're here for!

 

[JMB]

Well I definitely don't want to ride it on the floor haha but if it can get close enough, I'll be happy

And yeah, I have more questions but I'll wait to see if most of my previous ones get answered first lol.

 

[twotonevert]

I would not lower the bike more than 2 inches. If you resprung the rear shock, you will be ok on the stretch and lowering, however, really think about the front, more than 2 inches and you will be hitting your header on stuff, speed bumps, driveways, etc. That is if you plan to ride her. For show you can always go lower. The best answer though is to lower it to what is comfortable for you. Mine was lowered 2 inches when I bought her and I hated it, others like it. Good luck, and welcome to the oRg.

 

[JMB]

The thing to me is that I've always liked to do what others don't want/like to do. That way I can set myself apart from the more common look, which was the same case with my car. Most people (on a different forum) that owned the same car would tell me not ot drop the car __" or don't put __ size wheels on it because of the modifications that it required and the damage that could be done etc etc. Regardless I did it and yes, it does come with some sacrifices. I can't drive just anywhere, I have to know the roads and be able to know where the potholes are and all that stuff. But, for 5 years I drove careful, slow (for the most part) and turned out ok. I did bottom out several times, and the paint underneath my lip kit is pretty much gone. But I like it! lol. If I can take care of the bike as I did with my car being so low, I would be happy. I appreciate everyone's warnings and advice. That way I know what to expect but most likely I will be doing a very low setup. Let me post some pics of other members bikes I have seen around. These are pretty much what I want mine to look like with the drop, but I will most likely put a 240/300 kit on it.

ImageShack Links Do Not Work
^To me, that's like a perfect drop. I just like more of a stretch and a bigger rear wheel.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
^I really like how it's sitting in the front, the back though seems a bit unreasonable if I had a 240/300 tire. But it looks gorgeous to me that low.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
^I know BigRod has air ride in the back but the way it's sitting right there in the pic is perfect to me. When I sit on the bike I think it would lower down just enough to where I want it to be at. I would probably lower the front maybe 0.5-1" but you guys get the idea.

BigRods bike is pretty much what I want mine to look like. Extended 8-9", big tire kit, tucked in dual exhaust, pretty low.. Overall what i want to do. I have spoken to him a few times and he doesn't seem to have a problem riding it that low (as shown in the pic).

 

[BigRod1300]

The thing to me is that I've always liked to do what others don't want/like to do. That way I can set myself apart from the more common look, which was the same case with my car. Most people (on a different forum) that owned the same car would tell me not ot drop the car __" or don't put __ size wheels on it because of the modifications that it required and the damage that could be done etc etc. Regardless I did it and yes, it does come with some sacrifices. I can't drive just anywhere, I have to know the roads and be able to know where the potholes are and all that stuff. But, for 5 years I drove careful, slow (for the most part) and turned out ok. I did bottom out several times, and the paint underneath my lip kit is pretty much gone. But I like it! lol. If I can take care of the bike as I did with my car being so low, I would be happy. I appreciate everyone's warnings and advice. That way I know what to expect but most likely I will be doing a very low setup. Let me post some pics of other members bikes I have seen around. These are pretty much what I want mine to look like with the drop, but I will most likely put a 240/300 kit on it.

ImageShack Links Do Not Work
^To me, that's like a perfect drop. I just like more of a stretch and a bigger rear wheel.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
^I really like how it's sitting in the front, the back though seems a bit unreasonable if I had a 240/300 tire. But it looks gorgeous to me that low.
ImageShack Links Do Not Work
^I know BigRod has air ride in the back but the way it's sitting right there in the pic is perfect to me. When I sit on the bike I think it would lower down just enough to where I want it to be at. I would probably lower the front maybe 0.5-1" but you guys get the idea.

BigRods bike is pretty much what I want mine to look like. Extended 8-9", big tire kit, tucked in dual exhaust, pretty low.. Overall what i want to do. I have spoken to him a few times and he doesn't seem to have a problem riding it that low (as shown in the pic).

That pic is at ride stance: Lowered in the front 1-3/4 to 2inch drop ( use of a new trip tree that lets the fork slide up thru the tree)...I now have a one peice tree with clip-ons. The rear is yes air-ride....advantage is to slam it when parked, photo shoot, thu can be rode slammed with ZERO air, but then can raise it up to ride hieght= heigher in the tail for me that helps with cut ins for corners ( a big must for rolling the 330 on the back ) When slammed, stretched and rolling a big fatty..it wants to steam roll straight.

If you ride and I mean RIDE IT...you DONT want to keep the tail down with a fatty in the corner!
Other options is a heavier spring and of course thread adjustable links a must.
STRAPS in the front....is a big NO NO when riding. They have the suspension almost bottomed out and street riding will blow a fork seal or break something. I ONLY strap my front down when at the drag track and photo shoots. Here is a pic with min lowered 2 in the front and then strapped further for the pic. **2 inch down in the front is low enough for street riding....I here my fender scrap ever so often.
The second pic is at ride stance before I get on it @ 200pounds.

 

[SANDFLEA85]

I was 2" front and slammed in the rear, had shock rebuilt to compensate for my weight and 6"stretch (1200lb rating). it definately looks sweet. but my custom $300 front fender took a beating with the nose sitting 1" off it. it bottomed out all the time(highly reccomend getting your forks done also). you will have to take your time learning how to corner,it is definately a different feel but at high speed it feels more stable then stock height.

so a short list for you would be
lowering tree $200+
extended swingarm $1000+
upgraded rear shock $300 if you send it out,otherwise $1000 for name brand
longer chain $200+
longer rear brake line $50
fully adj lowering links $100
front forks rebuilt with heavier spring/oil $300- $1200+

these are just rough est and prices vary greatly depending on what you buy,but you get the idea.it adds up quick just slam and stretch your bike

 

[JMB]

That pic is at ride stance: Lowered in the front 1-3/4 to 2inch drop ( use of a new trip tree that lets the fork slide up thru the tree)...I now have a one peice tree with clip-ons. The rear is yes air-ride....advantage is to slam it when parked, photo shoot, thu can be rode slammed with ZERO air, but then can raise it up to ride hieght= heigher in the tail for me that helps with cut ins for corners ( a big must for rolling the 330 on the back ) When slammed, stretched and rolling a big fatty..it wants to steam roll straight.

If you ride and I mean RIDE IT...you DONT want to keep the tail down with a fatty in the corner!
Other options is a heavier spring and of course thread adjustable links a must.
STRAPS in the front....is a big NO NO when riding. They have the suspension almost bottomed out and street riding will blow a fork seal or break something. I ONLY strap my front down when at the drag track and photo shoots. Here is a pic with min lowered 2 in the front and then strapped further for the pic. **2 inch down in the front is low enough for street riding....I here my fender scrap ever so often.
The second pic is at ride stance before I get on it @ 200pounds.

As always very informative

I'm pretty set on the triple tree setup now and thankfully have a guess as to how low I will need the front (2"). Trip tree with adjustable links in the back and I'm set for the drop. It's all down to actually test driving it with that setup and with my weight.

Where can I get the one piece tree with clip ons?

 

[BigRod1300]

I was 2" front and slammed in the rear, had shock rebuilt to compensate for my weight and 6"stretch (1200lb rating). it definately looks sweet. but my custom $300 front fender took a beating with the nose sitting 1" off it. it bottomed out all the time(highly reccomend getting your forks done also). you will have to take your time learning how to corner,it is definately a different feel but at high speed it feels more stable then stock height.

so a short list for you would be
lowering tree $200+
extended swingarm $1000+
upgraded rear shock $300 if you send it out,otherwise $1000 for name brand
longer chain $200+
longer rear brake line $50
fully adj lowering links $100
front forks rebuilt with heavier spring/oil $300- $1200+

these are just rough est and prices vary greatly depending on what you buy,but you get the idea.it adds up quick just slam and stretch your bike

He could just swap to a heavier spring vs a hole new shock...cheaper.

 

[JMB]

I was 2" front and slammed in the rear, had shock rebuilt to compensate for my weight and 6"stretch (1200lb rating). it definately looks sweet. but my custom $300 front fender took a beating with the nose sitting 1" off it. it bottomed out all the time(highly reccomend getting your forks done also). you will have to take your time learning how to corner,it is definately a different feel but at high speed it feels more stable then stock height.

so a short list for you would be
lowering tree $200+
extended swingarm $1000+
upgraded rear shock $300 if you send it out,otherwise $1000 for name brand
longer chain $200+
longer rear brake line $50
fully adj lowering links $100
front forks rebuilt with heavier spring/oil $300- $1200+

these are just rough est and prices vary greatly depending on what you buy,but you get the idea.it adds up quick just slam and stretch your bike

What exactly do they do to the front forks? Where can I go to ask about that?

That's actually not bad. It all comes out cheaper than purchasing just a 300-330 kit from Roaring Toyz or ATC. The swingarm kit I want comes from SB Customs and they actually widen the stock rear rim. I don't actually care for aftermarket rims and all the chrome. I would like to keep the stock look with a wider tire. Their 240 kits come out to $1500 and 300 kits $2500. I' still debating whether to get a 240 or 300. With the 240 I wouldn't have to worry about the "crapshaft" as BigRod likes to call it lol. that comes with the 300+ kits. But I do like the big 300 series tires.

 

[BigRod1300]

What exactly do they do to the front forks? Where can I go to ask about that?

That's actually not bad. It all comes out cheaper than purchasing just a 300-330 kit from Roaring Toyz or ATC. The swingarm kit I want comes from SB Customs and they actually widen the stock rear rim. I don't actually care for aftermarket rims and all the chrome. I would like to keep the stock look with a wider tire. Their 240 kits come out to $1500 and 300 kits $2500. I' still debating whether to get a 240 or 300. With the 240 I wouldn't have to worry about the "crapshaft" as BigRod likes to call it lol. that comes with the 300+ kits. But I do like the big 300 series tires.

Stay 240 if you are a hard knee dragger type rider, or if you want the look and love the fatties.....300 is good, but 330 is FATT and still very ride able on the street. 360s are over rated and just a show block in my opinion. A 330 you could do an OSD vs the crapshafts? Widening the stock rear wheel is a + way to go. Its cheaper not having to get a matching front and I think they are lighter than the chrome custom rims.
The front fork question.....they are internally cut and some times even resprung to match your weight? I like my lower front but realy need to adjust the compression and rebound settings.

 

[JMB]

Stay 240 if you are a hard knee dragger type rider, or if you want the look and love the fatties.....300 is good, but 330 is FATT and still very ride able on the street. 360s are over rated and just a show block in my opinion. A 330 you could do an OSD vs the crapshafts? Widening the stock rear wheel is a + way to go. Its cheaper not having to get a matching front and I think they are lighter than the chrome custom rims.
The front fork question.....they are internally cut and some times even resprung to match your weight? I like my lower front but realy need to adjust the compression and rebound settings.

Definitely not the knee dragger type rider. Reason why I would do 300 is because I've only seen 240-300 size widened stock wheels, nothing bigger than that. My fav look is the 330 but like I said, I prefer the stock look. If I find someone that does a 330 widened wheel I may just go for that. The OSD upgrade is definitely worth it seeing from the thread you made. Until then though, I will be babying the crapshaft haha.

I really doubt it would be worth the trouble to do the front forks. Doesn't Catalyst Racing sell some lowered front fender that may give better clearance?

 

[ibified]

It's been my experience that a lowered bike LOOKS great, but riding them isnt so hot. While I love the look of a lowered Busa, I can tell you from my experience riding mine that it was a pain in the arse. Your front scrapes on stuff all the time, the rear tire bottoms out on the undertail, it doesnt corner anywhere NEAR as well as it does at stock ride height, etc. I had mine dropped 1 1/2" in the front and a little over 2" in the rear. After having it like that for a whi,e, I went back to stock ride height.

I'm not saying you SHOULDN'T lower your bike, but if you do, realize that you are going to compromise some of the rideability and some of the handling characteristics. If the look is more important to you than being able to corner and go over bumps in the road, go for it!

 

[JMB]

Definitely appreciate all the input. I am now well aware of the negative effects it has on the ride quality. I am willing to give it a go since I put up with almost the exact same problems with my car for 5+ years being slammed and running low offset wheels with a fixed spring/strut setup, no air ride. It's all about the looks for me

 

[SANDFLEA85]

It's been my experience that a lowered bike LOOKS great, but riding them isnt so hot. While I love the look of a lowered Busa, I can tell you from my experience riding mine that it was a pain in the arse. Your front scrapes on stuff all the time, the rear tire bottoms out on the undertail, it doesnt corner anywhere NEAR as well as it does at stock ride height, etc. I had mine dropped 1 1/2" in the front and a little over 2" in the rear. After having it like that for a whi,e, I went back to stock ride height.

I'm not saying you SHOULDN'T lower your bike, but if you do, realize that you are going to compromise some of the rideability and some of the handling characteristics. If the look is more important to you than being able to corner and go over bumps in the road, go for it!

an upgraded rear shock would take care of the bottoming out and hadling issues but you are right about stock bike handeling better. its nite and day but not being a kneedragger, I like the stretched and slammed ride,busa just looks better that way in my opinion

 

[ogre]

you could run a tiger tail and extended tail. you'd be able to rock a 240 mm tire as low as you want. or throw a gen 2 tail on it, they are a little more conducive to super wide tires at excessively low altitudes