Race Railz

While I like the concept I'm not sure about the function. They will definitely do better in a slow slide or tip over. I'm not sure if those would get in the way when I ride (knee position).
 
BTW suzuki4life, Frame Sliders are named that for a reason. They have never been intended to save the plastics. They are here to absorb impact that could cause frame damage. Frame sliders and plastics will do an outstanding job in protecting the frame and engine as long as it doesn't hit an immovable object.
 
While I like the concept I'm not sure about the function. They will definitely do better in a slow slide or tip over. I'm not sure if those would get in the way when I ride (knee position).

So was I, but no they don't get in the way while riding. The only time I've hit em is when I'm walkin the bike around I've hit em a couple times, but it's not a big issue.
 
Does the 1999-2007 railz fit the 2008?

Can't really tell you. If the frame is the same, then yes, but if it's not I don't know. I know some guys on here have them on their 08's, so I guess they do, but I don't know for sure.
 
Oh, and if anyone is planning to get a set of these, MAKE SURE you CHECK THE LENGTH OF THE SPACER. It was too long on mine and I didn't realise it and the bolt broke. And no, you won't just go to your local hardware store, lowes, home depot, nut/bolt store, or anything like that to get em. You'll have to order more from Powers Stunt Worx. Just make sure that the bar sits evenly. Install the front bolt all the way and see if the back sits all the way against the frame. If not then measure the distance from the frame to the rail and cut that much off of the spacer. Mine was about 3/4" too long. . .
 
The slider is also meant to give you some time to get your leg out from under the bike. So what if it bends that little extra time will give you time for your leg to get out of the way and you won't travel down the road with your leg pinned underneath the bike.
 
I posted already in a similar thread...but relevant here as well...

My Black and Grey K8 would still be on the road if I had ran with a "race rail type system"...while sliders most likely would not have improved her chances of survival...

Lady pulled out in front of me, with my speed around ~30-35mph? Locked the front, and while going down, and tagged her SUV with my headlight assy...then smacked the pavement.

Munchie's Down

My fairing bolt on the right side actually broke the head of the bolt - with no slider attached - stock bike. If I had a slider, it would have increased the leverage at the impact point, breaking off the slider rendering it useless. I don't believe this would happen will a rail system.

Reasons to go with both systems...but in my particular case, the rails would have saved her...:down:


Nice writeup Zoinks...preciate the pics!
 
Great illustrations. Good idea, for installing standard frame sliders. That pointed frame bolt, looks like the trick to mark the farring, for proper hole alignment.

Good job!
 
Just to share i emailed powerstuntsworks regarding on the modifications needed to fit onto my gen 1 that was already a few days back till date no reply.

I am considering do i still want to cut another hole to fit the race railz since i already got one for both sides of my fairing sliders.

The prize is more expensive compared to the sliders,replacement wise too.
 
Hi Everyone.

Just for anyone thinking about mounting these Railz or any sliders that require drilling through the fairings a better (and quicker) way to "line things up" would be to use a laser level. Place the laser on a table at the height of the bolt that will mount the slider, then line up the laser with the center of the bolt. Then without moving the bike or the laser, replace the fairing on the bike. The laser will point the the exact spot that needs to be drilled. I think this is more accurate than the method mentioned here as the sharpened bolt will bend the fairing before the fairing can seat all the way and not mark the true location of the hole that needs to be drilled ( although it should be close enough).
Hope this helps.

Rumble.
 
LOL! Nothing like reading vitriol from 3 years ago!

I like the RaceRailz look and think they'd be a lot better than sliders. But does anybody know if they still make them for the Busa? Last time I searched for them, there were a lot of links for them, but then the Busa is never listed as one of the bikes available? Are they still available? Who has the best price?
 
to be honest, i think it looks good, you did an amazing job on the cut and im sure it will protect much more than asphalt on fairing. to hell with the haters, id be the proud owner of that bike and if i had the cabbage in hand right now, id do the same thing. GG on your project!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Hi Everyone.

Just for anyone thinking about mounting these Railz or any sliders that require drilling through the fairings a better (and quicker) way to "line things up" would be to use a laser level. Place the laser on a table at the height of the bolt that will mount the slider, then line up the laser with the center of the bolt. Then without moving the bike or the laser, replace the fairing on the bike. The laser will point the the exact spot that needs to be drilled. I think this is more accurate than the method mentioned here as the sharpened bolt will bend the fairing before the fairing can seat all the way and not mark the true location of the hole that needs to be drilled ( although it should be close enough).
Hope this helps.

Rumble.

The laser level would be a good way to do it as well. As long as nothing accidentally got moved. The bending of the fairing really isn't an issue. As long as you cut the bolt down enough, it just barely contacts the fairing until you hit it with the mallet.

Power Stuntworx is out of business so no longer available. But you can go to Racing 905 and get some. Here is a link of where I got mine Racing 905 Suzuki Race Armor

This really doesn't surprise me at all. They were horrible to deal with. I would never do business with them again. Also, they had no torque specs with them. Because of this, the rear mount got put on too tight (I used the factory spec in the service manual) and it wound up snapping the flange on the left rail in half. After talking to some other people about it I found out they're only supposed to have about 15 or 20 ftlbs or so. The extra torque, plus engine vibration broke it. Talk about unhappy... I'm sure I could get someone to weld it up for me, I just never did. I still have them, and might do it someday, but probably no time soon. Oh, and it was only a matter of weeks before it broke. So I'm not entirely sure it wasn't a manufacturing error. But after all the problems I had with the company it just wasn't worth the trouble to try to get a new set.
 
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