Raised the rear now there's more tire slip

[sixpack577]

I'll own my part of the animosity, perceived or otherwise here. @sixpack577 I do apologize for the way I came back at you. I need to remember this isn't FB and we're all adults here. It was a combination of frustration with the bike damn near kicking me off and shortened attention span fueled by me wanting to figure it out now. I've forgotten how active forums actually work. So again I do apologize for my curt and unnecessary responses Thank you again @Flows and @sixpack577 as well as everyone else that's offered help.

Thank you sir, I appreciate that.
All is well.

 

[Cruising180]

I just put Road 6s on my bike and the front Road 6 is absolutely more V shaped than the stock S22 was. The front feels noticeably taller which I like. So I raised the rear and inch I also went from a 190/50-17 to a 190/55-17 rear. That with the taller feeling front makes the bike feel more level now and that "bucking horse, slipping" I was talking about is basically gone.

 

[Flows]

Nice one @Cruising180, when are you getting your Ohlins? I am getting the rear with a longer adjustable eye for more granular rear height adjustment.

 

[Cruising180]

Nice one @Cruising180, when are you getting your Ohlins? I am getting the rear with a longer adjustable eye for more granular rear height adjustment.

Not for a while. I'm good on weight for the rear but the front needs addressed first. That'll be next year most likely

 

[Cruising180]

I went back to the stock links in the rear. I'm still getting some slide but it feels more controllable. I did end up putting a 190/55-17 on the rear. I'm liking that a lot more. I know I'll lose rear height as the tire wears but it's all good. My battered wrists are much happier now. I've got the links up for sale if anyone wants them. $40 shipped, save ya about $15

 

[Flows]

Forgive the potentially obvious questions, did you try lowering the forks through the head stock (raising the front) by 6mm? Also assume you are only winding in throttle post max lean? As in none of this leaning and winding at the same time nonsence right?

 

[Cruising180]

Forgive the potentially obvious questions, did you try lowering the forks through the head stock (raising the front) by 6mm? Also assume you are only winding in throttle post max lean? As in none of this leaning and winding at the same time nonsence right?

I didn't lowering the forks in the triples. I'd raised the rear before on my 1998 VFR800 and 2002 Blackbird without lowering the forks and I was happy with the results but my wrists were 20 something years younger lol. No I'm not rolling on throttle at full lean I know better than that. I suppose the issue may be I'm not quite used to how early and how much torque comes on. I may be rolling on too early which I could do on my old FZ-10 but the way the CP-4 makes power is more consistent with it's crossplane crank vs the 180* flatplane crank. I haven't had a traditional Japanese I-4 in a long time.

 

[Flows]

Yeah, you are all over it @Cruising180, with the raised front set up (and rear via tire and preload) my CSS coach told me I was leaving black lines out of corners on the track when all I was feeling was a slight sense of greasiness but I had TC on 1 rather than off.. my sense is that weight distribution / transfer and squat tuning is more important than most on the nose heavy I-4 we are riding.

 

[Flows]

Again forgive the nut behind the bolt wonderings but this just came to me; We are so often told to loosen our grips on the bars but I have always found that to be a pointless comment without the precursor focus shift to core / back engagement and locking in the lower body's points of contact. Taking weight off the bars without doing that first just loads up the lower back and kind of misses the point. Either way, what I am getting at is, braking aside, I wonder if back of the seat, core engaged, calf raise into the tank, locked on lower down and loose as a goose on the bars makes a meaningful difference to the weight distribution / rear tire slip / wrist pain all in one?

 

[Cruising180]

Again forgive the nut behind the bolt wonderings but this just came to me; We are so often told to loosen our grips on the bars but I have always found that to be a pointless comment without the precursor focus shift to core / back engagement and locking in the lower body's points of contact. Taking weight off the bars without doing that first just loads up the lower back and kind of misses the point. Either way, what I am getting at is, braking aside, I wonder if back of the seat, core engaged, calf raise into the tank, locked on lower down and loose as a goose on the bars makes a meaningful difference to the weight distribution / rear tire slip / wrist pain all in one?

I'm guilty of the "sport bike pose" when I'm just cruising around. Straight back elbows almost locked but that's just bopping around town which is when my wrists really bothered me as well as when I'm slabbing it on the interstate. When I'm riding seriously I'm very aware of body position. I can "play the piano" when I'm cornering core tight not supporting my weight on my arms or my back. Weighting the outside peg etc. It may be just that the power delivery is different than what I rode for the last five years coupled with the extra 30ft/lbs of torque or so. It boils down to a throttle application issue. I may just need to wait another few second and get the bike stood up a bit more before I roll into it. I only have about 2,300 miles on the Busa since last October, weak I know lol.

 

[dcnblues]

Again forgive the nut behind the bolt wonderings but this just came to me; We are so often told to loosen our grips on the bars but I have always found that to be a pointless comment without the precursor focus shift to core / back engagement and locking in the lower body's points of contact. Taking weight off the bars without doing that first just loads up the lower back and kind of misses the point. Either way, what I am getting at is, braking aside, I wonder if back of the seat, core engaged, calf raise into the tank, locked on lower down and loose as a goose on the bars makes a meaningful difference to the weight distribution / rear tire slip / wrist pain all in one?

Maybe you simply get didn't get to it in your description, but you didn't mention having weight on the balls of your feet. Assuming you're still talking about riding in the twisties, the ass needs to be off the seat enough that you are feeling the bike moving beneath you as you transition from left to right. If you can do that with enough forward / backward balance to have a light grip on the bars, you can let the front tire choose its own angle when it's leaned over, which will be much more stable and provide much more grip. The last piece of the puzzle is getting your weight forward enough that at the Apex, you are perfectly balancing the suspension loads between front and rear. And that's the magic place where smooth becomes fast, and you feel totally in the groove. But you do have to lean forward to get there, and you do have to put in some work to get there. Once you do though, your wrists will not be the part that get tired.

I don't think it's that hard, most people can get there with the thought experiment of imagining yourself bombing down a twisty road on a mountain bike with front and rear suspension. Exact same thing, let the bike move beneath you but balanced enough that you are feeling (and needing) max grip from the tires.