Replace fork oil without removing forks
- Thread starter Flows
- Start date
Good luck with that lol. . .
What about the oil left in the cartridge?
How can you set the air gap with the spring still fitted on the cartridge and unable to be removed unless you remove the cartridge from the fork?
It’s only an extra hour to remove and reinstall the forks.. if that.
What about the oil left in the cartridge?
How can you set the air gap with the spring still fitted on the cartridge and unable to be removed unless you remove the cartridge from the fork?
It’s only an extra hour to remove and reinstall the forks.. if that.
Berlin Germany
Registered
Have you ever attempted it on the Busa Frank?
I knew immediately that you can never know for sure if you have the oil level/air gap correct… and I don’t know if it’s even possible to remove the compression adjuster valve to drain the oil?
Crazy idea…. Just remove the forks and do it right!
Ha! Well that sounds like a resounding no 
The thinking is to remove friction from replacing fork oil with the engine oil at around 4-5k marks which happens when one spends any time with Mr. Dave Moss... With regards setting the level just measure it or scope it before draining. Might try it on one side and see how much drains out vs the other side if I pull them off before replacing the forks.
The thinking is to remove friction from replacing fork oil with the engine oil at around 4-5k marks which happens when one spends any time with Mr. Dave Moss... With regards setting the level just measure it or scope it before draining. Might try it on one side and see how much drains out vs the other side if I pull them off before replacing the forks.
Well . . let us know how it works out for ya . . success, or . . . disaster?Ha! Well that sounds like a resounding no
Berlin Germany
Registered
@Kiwi Rider
let's be honest - who would commit such a sloppy act?
i think no one in his right mind would do so.
and
from a purely technical perspective,
i don't see any chance of getting the top plug out without dismantling the fork legs to be able to then emptying them .
let's be honest - who would commit such a sloppy act?
i think no one in his right mind would do so.
and
from a purely technical perspective,
i don't see any chance of getting the top plug out without dismantling the fork legs to be able to then emptying them .
jcornwell101
Registered
The compression and rebound adjusters are soft metal and damage pretty easily. If you are not changing seals or springs Dave Moss has a pump and dump that he calls it. Its where you take the fork leg off, open the rebound cap at the top, and pour the fork oil into a container. To empty the cartridge you put thread the fork cap back and use your body weight to pump the cartridge against the ground then open the cap again to let pour out the fluid. Then you do this until you feel like the dampening is gone and there is a very slight drip from when you pour it out. You then measure the amount of fluid that came out and pour in the new fluid matching the volume you measured.
I have done this without any issues and it saves heart ache of using a spring compressor if your seals are good and you are not changing springs or fork oil brand/weight.
I have done this without any issues and it saves heart ache of using a spring compressor if your seals are good and you are not changing springs or fork oil brand/weight.
I've changed fork oil like that for years.....basically up ending the fork and draining it then pumping it to remove the rest....
It was much easier on the old style forks though......
You need an Abba Skylift...flip the bike upside down
lol
lol
It certainly was a lot easier on the old ‘right way up’ forks… but as a working mechanic (ret.) I just buy the tools necessary and do it the way the manual instructs.
Other thing is, there’s often sludge at the base of the fork leg and in the case of USD forks, that sludge accumulates around the compression base valve and we DONT want that!
So removing the cartridge and cleaning all components thoroughly is really the way to go.
It’s nice knowing you have the oil level exact too.
Also, the seals don’t need to be removed and replaced (providing they’re NOT leaking or weeping) to clean it all out.
Honestly I've always sent in my inverted forks to be done....I've only had a couple bikes with them....most of my bikes had the old style forks.
The last time the forks were done on the Hayabusa I changed out the cartridges and springs.
Changed them with what?
Progressive springs and Race Tech Gold valves and 7w oil....the springs are by Hyper Pro
I was finding I was compressing the stock forks too much on hard deceleration as I weigh 210 without gear....
Last edited:
zeepopo2
Registered
Technically if you don't loose a drop of fluid and measure precisely it should work, but you still keep a lot of the metal sediments since you ain't pumping and cleaning the internals. Just take the extra 10 minutes and pull the forks off. Headstand comes handy for that.Ha! Well that sounds like a resounding no
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