(Charlesbusa @ Jun. 08 2007,21:50) Downshifting as you brake is best. It can be hard to get out of 6th gear at a stop all the way to 1st and if you had accelerate to avoid an accident you would not have much pull in 6th.
) Ive started using the engine more and more. I've been told by several long time riders that a set of brake pads should outlast your bike. And the only way to achieve this is engine braking. Last season I was a pull the clutch and brake type guy. This season Im trying to refine my riding style to more and more engine braking. Not sure if it's the right method, but it seems to work.
Maximum braking comes from using the brakes. If you never practice using the brakes, you won't use them effectively when you need to. Engine braking can only slow you down so much at a time. You will also wear out your rear tire quicker. Extra $$ saved by longer brake pad life, versus extra $$$ spent on rear tires. Its probably just a wash. I need to replace my front pads about every 1 1/2 years now that I'm doing 7 trackdays a year. My stock pads lasted 30K miles and no trackdays. Brakes are like tires, a consumable.
The MSF course is actually going away from teaching engine braking. They say use both brakes till you slow or stop. Pull in the clutch smothly and downshift.
If your not stopping just shift to the gear thats appropriate the roll on the throttle (smoothly)
Maybe I am wrong but since we have wet clutches its harder to wear them out during normal riding isnt it?
I seriously don't even think about what I do, it's just autonomic.
Every scenario is different. My brain just makes my hands and feet
figure it out proficiently. Now you're gonna make me trip down the stairs dude...thanks....
(Kweave @ Jun. 10 2007,12:34) The MSF course is actually going away from teaching engine braking. They say use both brakes till you slow or stop. Pull in the clutch smothly and downshift.
If your not stopping just shift to the gear thats appropriate the roll on the throttle (smoothly)
Maybe I am wrong but since we have wet clutches its harder to wear them out during normal riding isnt it?
The MSF course is geared toward cruisers. I just took the Experience Rider course. Waste of money. They didn't cover anything that isn't in the Basic course. The guys on sportbikes (I used my sv650s) had a hard time doing the braking because they want you to use the rear brake. I was locking up every time. Good thing I didn't need the points for my license.
My technique:
From moderate to high speed, front brake and down shift. Let the clutch out smoothly and match rpm (still practicing that). The slow clutch part is to prevent the rear tire from slowing down faster than the bike. Just like locking your rear brake.
Once down under 20, just the rear brake. I can keep a little power on to maintain my distance to the car in front but manage the speed with the brake. The front brake is a little too abrupt for me at low speeds. And if there's any gravel or sand at the intersection, I'd rather lock my rear brake
Coming to a stop, rear brake. This I got from the MSF class and I like it. Stop and plant my left foot. 1st gear is assumed, ready to take off.
Once my rear is covered (a car is stopped behind me) I'll shift into neutral if it's a long light. But I won't be staring at the clouds. Had a moron almost clip me once cutting a left turn too tight in front of me. I honked at him and he woke up. The look on his face: priceless. The color of my shorts: brown.
YMMV but avoid reliance on the rear brake above 20mph.
I can't imagine coming to a stop and down shifting, it's hell. On my DL test had to do emergency braking and as normal for me I grabbed all the front and rear brake I could stand. If the azz starts kicking out, meaning locked up I adjust.
I think stopping your bike and a whole lot of other thing's is dependent on the rider and bike; and everyone of them is different.
I downshift, and if you get aggressive the azz will kick out down shifting.
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