Running like piss after mods...

jeremy_283

jeremy_283

Registered
airbox mod, pair valve mod, full exhaust system, gear indicator with ATRE.... bike ran so rich it fouled out my plugs... sends out black smoke sometimes... sometimes white.... ran good before i touched it.. haha.. i know what i'm doing though i rebuild EFI engines on like my race quad and such...
 
Sounds like the MAP Sensor Hose Fell Off
That would send it Rich
Also check for vaccum hose off
after you took the pair valve off
 
The map sensor is what's attached to the airbox right? That hose then runs to a t with other hoses coming from the throttle body
 
Johnnycheese said:
I guess you answered your own question
after all you know what you are doing correct?
Click to expand...

careful Johnny, you might get called a jerk: https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/dyno-kings/139602-my-bike-runs-horrible-just-need-tune.html

dude, I will let you slide calling me that ONCE...and one time only! I understand you're frustrated that things are not going well with you're bike but that does not give you any excuse whatsoever to lash out at anyone.

My first instinct is to go TIT-FOR-TAT with you but I choose not to. Instead, I wish you good luck with your bike and hope you get it sorted out.
 
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I didn't call you a jerk, "don't be a jerk" was just simply stating that I didn't want you to be a "jerk".... I never directly stated you were the aforementioned.... I never said "quit being a jerk"... Or "your being a jerk"..... I guess in the end.. It's just interpretation
 
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I will make you a promise....after this one, I promise to NEVER post in a thread you start ever again.

However, because I am a genuine good guy (and NOT a jerk), thought I might do you this one favor: sit back and ask yourself why your threads are NOT getting the replies/posts you would want it to.

P.S. If you cannot figure it out, I might even give you a clue :thumbsup:
 
Maybe I am wrong, but could this be our friend Owen?
Actually I woulld bet money that Owen is BACK!!!
 
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kromdom said:
I will make you a promise....after this one, I promise to NEVER post in a thread you start ever again.

However, because I am a genuine good guy (and NOT a jerk), thought I might do you this one favor: sit back and ask yourself why your threads are NOT getting the replies/posts you would want it to.

P.S. If you cannot figure it out, I might even give you a clue :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Not getting answers cause no-one else knows either:whistle: ... Additionally, I don't care where you post.
 
Didn't you say you were gonna get it dynoed? If the problem is not the air/fuel ratio, a competent tuner should be able to pinpoint what's wrong. But it really sounds like that's your problem. How about tuning with ECU Editor($208 from Boostbysmith, and he'll send you any map from previous dyno runs and similiar applications) And there's always power commander, a base map from there should make it rideable again. I understand your frustration, but a better fuel map from something seems to be your best bet at this point.
 
yea, im prolly gunna mess something up.. ive been running a multimeter on stuff tonight making sure everything checks out, my manual said something about inserting a small copper wire through the back of a connector while the bike is running (not sure if you know what i'm talking about).... i had a tough time there and for some reason i though those little rubber boots around the the wire shoved down into the connector could be removed and slid down the wire, nearly ripped a boot and was like forget it and just shoved it back in and called it quits

once again, sorry, i may not be the best at explaining things

Going to a dyno this saturday.... tuner said to leave the side panels off and we'll figure it out there, i'll prolly need to change the oil after all this, prolly has gas in it :-/

I'm going to do a compression check tomorrow and then close it all up i do believe
 
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A couple of folks have said the map sensor, if that's so it should have a code. Check to see if you have any codes anyway, it can't hurt. It will display a "C" and a 2 digit number on the dash. You can find a code list here to find out what it is, should you have any.
Under the driver seat behind the battery there is a white plug with 4 wires in it, it has a white cap on it. Use a wire or paper clip to jump the red/white and black/white wires. The key must be on, and it doesn't matter if the bike is running or not. This is safe and will not harm anything, it's the same on gen 1 and 2 also. In the picture it shows the plug with the cap on, it'll work that way, but it's just easier acess to the wires if you remove it. If this has been mentioned in another thread, sorry for the repost.

wire%20jump.JPG
 
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