Scotts stainless oil filter
- Thread starter HAYABUSA1340
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A bit of googling found this;
Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters
"There's a new type of filter being marketed, the "laser cut stainless steel filter," which we're told is "good for the life of your vehicle."
These filters typically have 35-40 micron holes, which is really not acceptable. They typically have 30-40 square inches of filter material, which is really not acceptable. A paper based element is a 3 dimensional filter - when a particle gets stuck deep in the filter element, oil can still flow around it. The stainless steel elements are 2 dimensional - when a particle gets caught, one of the holes is clogged up.
I don't see how you can assure that all the holes get cleared out when you clean these. Certainly simply soaking the filter in kerosene is not going to release particles that have been jammed into a hole at 60psi. Blowing the filter out with air sounds good, but a motorcycle filter is too small to let an air hose inside.
These stainless steel filters cost about $120, about 25 times what I pay for a Pure One. Since I use my filters for about 8,000 miles, that means I have to go 200,000 miles to break even. I've never put more than 60,000 miles on a vehicle.
I don't think this technology is ready to use yet. When the holes get down to 20 microns, and the surface area up to about 100-150 square inches, then I think I'll consider using one. Meanwhile, "good for the life of your vehicle" is not an impressive claim if the device shortens the life of your vehicle."
Can anybody refute this gentleman's claims?
cheers
ken
Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters
"There's a new type of filter being marketed, the "laser cut stainless steel filter," which we're told is "good for the life of your vehicle."
These filters typically have 35-40 micron holes, which is really not acceptable. They typically have 30-40 square inches of filter material, which is really not acceptable. A paper based element is a 3 dimensional filter - when a particle gets stuck deep in the filter element, oil can still flow around it. The stainless steel elements are 2 dimensional - when a particle gets caught, one of the holes is clogged up.
I don't see how you can assure that all the holes get cleared out when you clean these. Certainly simply soaking the filter in kerosene is not going to release particles that have been jammed into a hole at 60psi. Blowing the filter out with air sounds good, but a motorcycle filter is too small to let an air hose inside.
These stainless steel filters cost about $120, about 25 times what I pay for a Pure One. Since I use my filters for about 8,000 miles, that means I have to go 200,000 miles to break even. I've never put more than 60,000 miles on a vehicle.
I don't think this technology is ready to use yet. When the holes get down to 20 microns, and the surface area up to about 100-150 square inches, then I think I'll consider using one. Meanwhile, "good for the life of your vehicle" is not an impressive claim if the device shortens the life of your vehicle."
Can anybody refute this gentleman's claims?
cheers
ken
HAYABUSA1340
Registered
I'm still trying to warp my head around the idea that oil doesn't go thru paper. How do paper oil filters work?
terrible
I don't really understand how terrible a paper filter that rarely makes 3k on my bike can be when I go 7500 on my diesel rig and my wife goes untold mileage without a failure twice the moving parts tons more cold starts, stop and go, wot highway passing. And etc and haven't ever heard of a filter failure once on a vehicle. Even vehicles with hv or hp pumps and the papers just keep working. Think this is right up there with miracle mod airbox tape.
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mike1180
Banned
Here from the K&P website:
Stainless Steel Cleanable and Reusable Oil Filters for your Motorcycle and ATV
We use ASTMF316 testing procedures which eliminate many of the user variables found in the SAE procedures. Basically, the filter media is pressurized from one side, and when the media starts passing particles, that is the micron rating. We sent filter media from several common brands of paper filters to the lab to be run through the ASTM test. We sent the media to the lab with no names, just numbers for identification so they wouldn't have any idea what brand filter they were testing. The results for the paper filters ranged from 48 microns for the best filter to over 300 microns for the worst filter. Our tests were right in line with other testing results we have researched that have paper media filters passing particles anywhere between 50 and 90 microns. What does this mean? Paper filters are rated on averages, percentages of efficiency (also known as beta ratios) and multiple passes, so a 10 micron rated paper filter (as advertised on the packaging) may be letting particles 50 microns and larger through. The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is consistent across the entire media surface and is rated at 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns should pass through the material. The bottom line is we meet or exceed the filtration performance of OEM filters, eliminating any warranty issues.
With a graph here:
Stainless Steel Cleanable and Reusable Oil Filters for your Motorcycle and ATV
So I think it is better than paper filters.
I also feel that it is best to blow it out from the inside.
Princess Auto (for Ken and I) the rest can probably get one at Harbor Freight will sell a air gun with attachments on a quick release system as illustrated.
I took one and put some tape over the end so I don't touch the filter screen, and blow mine out each time.
Works perfect.
been using the scott's since '00 and love it.
Guys, I work as a Medical Laboratory Scientist...Red Blood Cells are generally speaking around 15-18 microns and white blood cells are 30-50 microns. On a microscope at 500X they are still small...If you fanned your clutch and shaved off a little metal from the gears..believe me...they aren't getting through either paper or stainless mesh.
I was talking with Scott's Performance last night about this very subject. This comment is for Takeuon...I asked them about the clearance issue since I just put on Brocks CT pipes. So, yesterday I put a new oem filter in there to check out the wiggle room and it was pretty tight. I just got my Scott's damper and they forgot a security bolt with specialized tool...I asked them specifically about the dimensions of the stainless oil filter...They wouldn't give me a concrete answer...the best he could say was "about 1/8" longer than OEM"...I am still ruminating on that and will decide after regurgatation is finished. The agent at Scott's Performance claims, and he said it is undocumented, many people feel there is a HP increase due to less pressure build up behind the ss oil filter. The price quoted at Scotts was 135 dollars... 2hip
I was talking with Scott's Performance last night about this very subject. This comment is for Takeuon...I asked them about the clearance issue since I just put on Brocks CT pipes. So, yesterday I put a new oem filter in there to check out the wiggle room and it was pretty tight. I just got my Scott's damper and they forgot a security bolt with specialized tool...I asked them specifically about the dimensions of the stainless oil filter...They wouldn't give me a concrete answer...the best he could say was "about 1/8" longer than OEM"...I am still ruminating on that and will decide after regurgatation is finished. The agent at Scott's Performance claims, and he said it is undocumented, many people feel there is a HP increase due to less pressure build up behind the ss oil filter. The price quoted at Scotts was 135 dollars... 2hip
1340
Registered
Its not worth it in my opinion. You have guys here breaking 100k with a traditional filter. You have to break 40k miles to get your money's worth with that thing, that's if you're paying full price for an OEM filter
. I get my oil filters from PEP Boys for under 7 bucks, they have a motorcycle filter section. Its like buying an Iphone, you know you don't need it but you talk yourself in getting one coz you want it. Just my .02 take it with a grain of salt.
mike1180
Banned
Its not worth it in my opinion. You have guys here breaking 100k with a traditional filter. You have to break 40k miles to get your money's worth with that thing, that's if you're paying full price for an OEM filter
I don't have a Iphone, but I do have one of these. To me I can't compare it to paper, and I have waisted many more $ on this bike, than the $120 it costs.
There also may be something said about how many million paper filters are going to the dumps every day.
JMO too.
I've never heard of a hp increase, and if so, I would imagine it would be insignificant. Anyhow, I've considered these filters over the years, but wanted to wait to see long term results. My biggest question is what you're talking about too, clearance.
If it's already longer, and has to thread out of the adapter, I wonder how many aftermarket headers it will interfere with? Please post up what and when you find out more, thanks.
PaulCav
Registered
I think I can answer a few questions concerning these filters as I have been using one for drag racing about 3 years now.
Considering the cost, I would have to agree it is not probably the type of filter you would want to use for regular driving on the street. Most people replace their filters every 3K to 5K miles. So yes it would take awhile to break even on the price for a K&P or Scotts filter.
As for the issue of not being able to clean it out, I do not put much weight in that, it is very easy to do and not anywhere as messy as a comment made by an earlier poster may lead you to believe. I use a can of brake cleaner spraying from the inside out and use the exact same air nozzle as pictured above to dry it and blow any existing particles out.
Here is where these filters are worth their weight in gold... When drag racing, especially on a motorcycle that has 300hp or more, it is very comforting to take off the oil filter after every couple of passes or so to look for any metal. Both of these filters have very strong magnets on them and will pull anything out that may be an indicator you are about to have problems.
In my instance I have never seen anything on it to give me an indication I may be about to have a catastrophic failure but I can tell you some of the Pro Street guys who use these filters have. If they see any metal shavings on them from bearings they do not run the motor, tear it down in between rounds and fix it right then. For this reason alone they are much more cost effective than a paper filter which will not tell you anything unless you cut it in half, which some riders do.
As for it fitting behind a header or a turbo as I use, no problem. Johnny Dobrin of Exotocycles made a nice device to attach to your block which will angle the filter anyway you would like. Schnitz sells them and I posted the link below.
I hope this helps some of you in your decision as to whether or not you should use one of these filters.
Oil Filter Relocator, Suzuki Hayabusa - Exoticycle
Considering the cost, I would have to agree it is not probably the type of filter you would want to use for regular driving on the street. Most people replace their filters every 3K to 5K miles. So yes it would take awhile to break even on the price for a K&P or Scotts filter.
As for the issue of not being able to clean it out, I do not put much weight in that, it is very easy to do and not anywhere as messy as a comment made by an earlier poster may lead you to believe. I use a can of brake cleaner spraying from the inside out and use the exact same air nozzle as pictured above to dry it and blow any existing particles out.
Here is where these filters are worth their weight in gold... When drag racing, especially on a motorcycle that has 300hp or more, it is very comforting to take off the oil filter after every couple of passes or so to look for any metal. Both of these filters have very strong magnets on them and will pull anything out that may be an indicator you are about to have problems.
In my instance I have never seen anything on it to give me an indication I may be about to have a catastrophic failure but I can tell you some of the Pro Street guys who use these filters have. If they see any metal shavings on them from bearings they do not run the motor, tear it down in between rounds and fix it right then. For this reason alone they are much more cost effective than a paper filter which will not tell you anything unless you cut it in half, which some riders do.
As for it fitting behind a header or a turbo as I use, no problem. Johnny Dobrin of Exotocycles made a nice device to attach to your block which will angle the filter anyway you would like. Schnitz sells them and I posted the link below.
I hope this helps some of you in your decision as to whether or not you should use one of these filters.
Oil Filter Relocator, Suzuki Hayabusa - Exoticycle
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That's what I wanted to hear, I'll have to add it to the wish list. Good info, thanks.
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