so the starter can kick over without any problems even when hot... (see above)(Big Red @ Jun. 13 2007,10:31) Why do you need two batteries to begin with?
some guys running lots of extra electrical stuff run two batteries for the extra amps.
Second Battery
- Thread starter Mike.P175
- Start date
some guys running lots of extra electrical stuff run two batteries for the extra amps.
NCpanther01
Registered
My question is why not just go with a 235amp battery? Wouls that solve all problems? Please help!!!
NCpanther01
Registered
Mike P175, I'm having the same problem with my stock battery. It seesm when the bike is hot I have to use my choke a little and it's on. If I don't then it will start with a jump. I'm getting tird of this!!!!!!
NCpanther01
Registered
An 03 starter system? What kind of info so you have on it?
I'm running a 1558cc in the back of an off road car and I'm having trouble hot starting. Mines based on an 05 engine which has the 03 onwards start system on it. To be honest me and another guy are having similar problems and we are wondering if it's the later starter transfer system that's not helping. People with similar engines seem ok but many are earlier motors.
The 03 and later has a clutched cushion transfer mechanism to stop breakages if the motor kicks back - this was the reason for a lot of billet starter kits being made here in the UK for 02 and earlier bikes - but these can have smaller gears which is one possible answer, get the motor spinning over quicker.
I think I'm gonna try the 24v start route - I've got a pretty big Red Top 30 battery on the car (can't remember the CCA or other ratings but plenty), perfect when it's cold/cool but I'm lucky if I can get it to fire up just after it's been running hard. Maybe one attempt, if it doesn't fire that's me done for a while.
I know the any drawbacks question was asked before but before I try this - am I placng any extra load on the ECU with a 24v start system - doesn't cause any problems even if the motor maybe doesn't fire quickly and I'm cranking it over quite a long time?
The 03 and later has a clutched cushion transfer mechanism to stop breakages if the motor kicks back - this was the reason for a lot of billet starter kits being made here in the UK for 02 and earlier bikes - but these can have smaller gears which is one possible answer, get the motor spinning over quicker.
I think I'm gonna try the 24v start route - I've got a pretty big Red Top 30 battery on the car (can't remember the CCA or other ratings but plenty), perfect when it's cold/cool but I'm lucky if I can get it to fire up just after it's been running hard. Maybe one attempt, if it doesn't fire that's me done for a while.
I know the any drawbacks question was asked before but before I try this - am I placng any extra load on the ECU with a 24v start system - doesn't cause any problems even if the motor maybe doesn't fire quickly and I'm cranking it over quite a long time?
For the guys who have a hard time starting the bike when hot .... have you ever tried opening the gas cap?
I'm asking because I had this problem at the strip a while back and it was brought up here. I was told it could be "vapor lock" and that I should try opening the the cap to release the fumes.
I haven't had a problem since. It starts just as strong as it does on a cold start.
I'm asking because I had this problem at the strip a while back and it was brought up here. I was told it could be "vapor lock" and that I should try opening the the cap to release the fumes.
I haven't had a problem since. It starts just as strong as it does on a cold start.
NCpanther01
Registered
Hmmm, so you opened the tank once and you never had that problem AGAIN!
I constantly had a hard time starting my bike once it was hot. Since I was given that bit of info I always pop the tank open before I start the bike (when hot). I have yet to have it startup as if the battery was going dead since.
Thanks for the feedback, thought about it a bit more and realised only the starter gets the 24v! Cheers.
Certainly for me the tank cap isn't the issue, it's got a breather in it which should ensure no vapour locks - definately more to do with either it being too advanced on the ignition or detonating before it's had time to get any momentum going turning it over.
Certainly for me the tank cap isn't the issue, it's got a breather in it which should ensure no vapour locks - definately more to do with either it being too advanced on the ignition or detonating before it's had time to get any momentum going turning it over.
NCpanther01
Registered
Bruh, thanks! Wouldn't you figure when I have this info my bike hasn't acted up yet
Before switching to 24v start I had tried alot of single high amp batteries. It does help but for starting nothing else comes close to the 24v setup.
mike1180
Banned
Hey we have to stop meeting like this....
Here is a link for all the stuff you will need.
Battery Mount, Secondary, 12 volt, Suzuki Hayabusa 99-07 - Tiger * Schnitz Motorsports Inc
Ryan Schnitz is a sponsor here so you can also check with him.
It says it is for use with Tiger undertail only, but he would know what else you need to make it work.
If I am going to do it, I am going to use his harness.
If you don't want to here is the link of how he wires it:
Technical Corner (go about 1./2 way down.)
Good luck buddy!
Here is a link for all the stuff you will need.
Battery Mount, Secondary, 12 volt, Suzuki Hayabusa 99-07 - Tiger * Schnitz Motorsports Inc
Ryan Schnitz is a sponsor here so you can also check with him.
It says it is for use with Tiger undertail only, but he would know what else you need to make it work.
If I am going to do it, I am going to use his harness.
If you don't want to here is the link of how he wires it:
Technical Corner (go about 1./2 way down.)
Good luck buddy!
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