Shock/spring recommendations for 72 wb gen 2

Dennis said:
Right lane, 72" stock motor Gen2 on a Shinko and stock shock with nitrous.

Click to expand...

Looks good! I'll be doing mostly 1/8th mile as well.

Is that really a stock shock? Or has it been revalved and the spring changed?
Also, how much nitrous?

Dennis said:
Hays Revolution hand slider. I wouldn’t be as consistent with a stock type hand clutch.
Click to expand...

I've been looking into that clutch. It looks really nice!
How is it driving under part throttle?
 
sicksixty said:
Looks good! I'll be doing mostly 1/8th mile as well.

Is that really a stock shock? Or has it been revalved and the spring changed?
Also, how much nitrous?



I've been looking into that clutch. It looks really nice!
How is it driving under part throttle?
Click to expand...
It really is stock shock, stock spring. Not my bike but I know it well. He sprayed everything from 40 to 70 and it didn't make any difference in ET or MPH so I can't say how much in that vid. I do know it was set for 50% in 1st gear so somewhere between 20 and 35 hp. He liked to run a LOT of gear, like 17/48 and the riders were light. A shock would have helped that bike as it did have trouble down track staying hooked.

The Hays Revolution clutch is fine for driving part throttle, but really light part throttle. It has adjustable static springs so your setting on that makes a noticeable difference. For sure they are good enough to ride the return road and the pits so no push bike is needed. I've never tried cranking down the static to really ride on the street. I don't think there would be enough to make it like a stock clutch on the street but you should be able to cruise to the local bike night or do a 30 mile cruise for a street bike race, just no messing around. Turbo guys seem to prefer the MTC Gen-2 but for nitrous the Hays seems hard to beat to me. I've run all season on my pink bike and the plates/fibers look like new.
 
Dennis said:
It really is stock shock, stock spring. Not my bike but I know it well. He sprayed everything from 40 to 70 and it didn't make any difference in ET or MPH so I can't say how much in that vid. I do know it was set for 50% in 1st gear so somewhere between 20 and 35 hp. He liked to run a LOT of gear, like 17/48 and the riders were light. A shock would have helped that bike as it did have trouble down track staying hooked.

The Hays Revolution clutch is fine for driving part throttle, but really light part throttle. It has adjustable static springs so your setting on that makes a noticeable difference. For sure they are good enough to ride the return road and the pits so no push bike is needed. I've never tried cranking down the static to really ride on the street. I don't think there would be enough to make it like a stock clutch on the street but you should be able to cruise to the local bike night or do a 30 mile cruise for a street bike race, just no messing around. Turbo guys seem to prefer the MTC Gen-2 but for nitrous the Hays seems hard to beat to me. I've run all season on my pink bike and the plates/fibers look like new.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks for the info. I'm planning on running 17/47 gearing on mine.

I'm surprised for sure. The stock shock/spring is working pretty well on that bike.

The Revolution definitely looks nice! I don't really do much street riding at all.
Just driving somewhere close to do some testing. Sounds like it will work.
 
Dennis said:
It really is stock shock, stock spring. Not my bike but I know it well. He sprayed everything from 40 to 70 and it didn't make any difference in ET or MPH so I can't say how much in that vid. I do know it was set for 50% in 1st gear so somewhere between 20 and 35 hp. He liked to run a LOT of gear, like 17/48 and the riders were light. A shock would have helped that bike as it did have trouble down track staying hooked.

The Hays Revolution clutch is fine for driving part throttle, but really light part throttle. It has adjustable static springs so your setting on that makes a noticeable difference. For sure they are good enough to ride the return road and the pits so no push bike is needed. I've never tried cranking down the static to really ride on the street. I don't think there would be enough to make it like a stock clutch on the street but you should be able to cruise to the local bike night or do a 30 mile cruise for a street bike race, just no messing around. Turbo guys seem to prefer the MTC Gen-2 but for nitrous the Hays seems hard to beat to me. I've run all season on my pink bike and the plates/fibers look like new.
Click to expand...
Good info here. I knew the rider was light, but surprised at how well it left with a stock shock at that length.
 
Mr Brown said:
Even spraying the full 80 out the gate you've got too much arm. At 72" you're in grudge bike territory, and those guys are 500+ hp.
As I said, if you're dead set on keeping it that long an aftermarket drag shock is your only option. You can't set up the stock shock to be effective at that length.
Click to expand...
I can't believe what I'm reading! You are so wrong, you're so so wrong. My bike is 8 ft long Tire to tire. 16" over swingarm; and why a 16" over, because that's what was available when I was building the bike. And why a 10" over taill; because that's what was available when I was building the bike. And I made it work on the racetrack. The normal upgrades power Commander, pipe, lowering links, front end strapped and gearing.
IMG_20190929_120154084.jpg




This Penske shock is set up for 300 horsepower 200lb Rider suited 1" from the ground.
Mr Brown said:
Yeah, 58 is commonly accepted as stock wheelbase but it's a fraction more. The op's bike has a long swingarm. With a stock motor, 14 over is pointless. Now if a guy likes the look of the arm, so be it, but it's counter productive if you're trying to race. The tire will unload and spin for days....
Click to expand...
July1 second day of DSE series 2012 Rob Hyabusa.jpg



You know you're going to say oh but you're using a drag slick there, but my swingarm to horsepower ratio on this bike was perfect for bracket racing and index racing. It was consistent! I would dump the clutch at 10,000 RPM because that's where the bell curve happened. Unfortunately this is one of my only close up photos I have that I can find. I can show you a lot of videos I won in rounds, 95% of my racing was done on a shinko hook up. And this bike was my daily driver. And I only slipped my very first time out until I learned the proper technique of heating a tire.
You can also use a person to help you and your burnout cuz when it starts screeching is when it's hot enough; but you can't hear that with your helmet on and the scream of the motor.
Mr Brown said:
Even spraying the full 80 out the gate you've got too much arm. At 72" you're in grudge bike territory, and those guys are 500+ hp.
As I said, if you're dead set on keeping it that long an aftermarket drag shock is your only option. You can't set up the stock shock to be effective at that length.
Click to expand...
Mr Brown said:
Yeah, 58 is commonly accepted as stock wheelbase but it's a fraction more. The op's bike has a long swingarm. With a stock motor, 14 over is pointless. Now if a guy likes the look of the arm, so be it, but it's counter productive if you're trying to race. The tire will unload and spin for days....
Click to expand...
 
I'm not wrong. You absolutely don't NEED a 16 over arm. You need to learn how to ride. An arm that long is going to unload and spin. Unless you're running low pressure, which as I've pointed out before slows you down. That doesn't matter in bracket racing, but some of us aren't only interested in consistent passes, we want fast.
Why do you insist on trying to prove me wrong? You make yourself look foolish every. single. time. Do you even read what you type before you post it? A bell curve? Are you in math class? If you mean a torque curve, the peak of that most certainly isn't 10k rpm. It's painfully obvious you're used to people thinking you're something special because of what you claim to do. Trust me when I tell you that nobody here is impressed with a 9.65 pass. There are members here running 7's, and a few in the 6's. And then there's the grudge crowd...
Do you, stop trying to impress anyone, you'll find people will like you more when you stop trying so hard.
 
Mr Brown said:
I'm not wrong. You absolutely don't NEED a 16 over arm. You need to learn how to ride. An arm that long is going to unload and spin. Unless you're running low pressure, which as I've pointed out before slows you down. That doesn't matter in bracket racing, but some of us aren't only interested in consistent passes, we want fast.
Why do you insist on trying to prove me wrong? You make yourself look foolish every. single. time. Do you even read what you type before you post it? A bell curve? Are you in math class? If you mean a torque curve, the peak of that most certainly isn't 10k rpm. It's painfully obvious you're used to people thinking you're something special because of what you claim to do. Trust me when I tell you that nobody here is impressed with a 9.65 pass. There are members here running 7's, and a few in the 6's. And then there's the grudge crowd...
Do you, stop trying to impress anyone, you'll find people will like you more when you stop trying so hard.
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm interested in going fast too that's why I built the angry bike 300 horsepower I got 4 x 4 four classes plus bracket racing take skill it's not just about heads up heads up smoke as boring as it can get there's not much skill there that's all in the horsepower or turbos
 
busakiller said:
Bracket racing is boring. The closest track for me all they do is bracket race. poop is boring. I can bracket race my bike but it’s not worth it. I want to go fast.
Click to expand...

If there are sand baggers, those who could Q under 10 seconds for example but actually Q around 10:50 and then run 10:50 bikes just to win I wouldn’t race either.
 
WuzzaCBXRider said:
If there are sand baggers, those who could Q under 10 seconds for example but actually Q around 10:50 and then run 10:50 bikes just to win I wouldn’t race either.
Click to expand...
HI. It is almost in brackets you race your self. You have to hit the light spot on as close to .000 all the time and not make a mistake at all. I do not care if the bike next to me can run 6.610 and set his to run 10.50 and if I tree him and run right on my 10.50 I win
 
Motonutz916 said:
Yeah I'm interested in going fast too that's why I built the angry bike 300 horsepower I got 4 x 4 four classes plus bracket racing take skill it's not just about heads up heads up smoke as boring as it can get there's not much skill there that's all in the horsepower or turbos
Click to expand...
Smh. Heads up doesn't take skill? But dumping the clutch on a 16 over stock motor busa does? Be for real.
300 hp isn't much at all, that's garden variety stage one turbo territory.
 
Motonutz916 said:
Yeah I'm interested in going fast too that's why I built the angry bike 300 horsepower I got 4 x 4 four classes plus bracket racing take skill it's not just about heads up heads up smoke as boring as it can get there's not much skill there that's all in the horsepower or turbos
Click to expand...
Heads up takes tuning skills, both motor and chassis. Then it takes skill to cut a light on a pro tree and keep the bike under control. Anybody can set up a mild bracket bike and be content with whatever boring ET's it puts up. The skill there is in cutting the light, and playing the finish line game. Choose what you like.
 
Dennis said:
Heads up takes tuning skills, both motor and chassis. Then it takes skill to cut a light on a pro tree and keep the bike under control. Anybody can set up a mild bracket bike and be content with whatever boring ET's it puts up. The skill there is in cutting the light, and playing the finish line game. Choose what you like.
Click to expand...
Will know s*** it takes to new skills etc it doesn't every class. And of course there's the tree. You got to work the tree on all classes. and bracket racing well dude I'm not going to have a pissing contest with you point as you said that with an overstretched arm you're going to spend 4 days. I showed you a still photo to prove you wrong. Even that didn't insignificant wheelie and I showed you a video of a perfect launch with a 16-inch arm. I I caught you in a false statement I'm sorry mr. Brown but you are wrong this time. As far as the 300 horsepower bike goes it was built for the heads up on me class. All motor class. But the next year they allowed $14,000 turbo bikes in I was going to put my beautiful piece against that anymore
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Gen 1 OEM shock spring?
Replies
2
Views
460
CoastToCoast2
C
r1d3on3
Rear shock setup
Replies
4
Views
8,670
Draco1340
Draco1340
D
Gen 2 Rear Shock advice please
Replies
1
Views
1,089
bikerboy2182
bikerboy2182
L
Gen 2 Rear Shock advice please
Replies
0
Views
1,008
lknosp
L
B
Will I have enough for an 8.80?
2
Replies
21
Views
2,804
Bankrupt
B
Back
Top