slip on /bolt on's & power commander?
- Thread starter kflagg
- Start date
Without more information I would say no. But information is needed....what kind of cans? Does 5-6 hp matter to you for the cost of a PC? What do you plan to use the Busa for, track/dragstrip/street? How much money do you have to burn?? I have a Yoshi full system exhaust and I don't need a PC. But if I wanted to spend the money for a few horses I probably would never feel, I could buy one. Hope I helped
Thanks charles,Just street riding not looking for any performance gain but thats cool if i pick up a couple extra.Just want a better sound all my other bikes have been carbs.with slip on i didnt need to re-jet.This is my first fuel injected bike and not up on the power commander info to much.Thanks again
kf
kf
Mikey D
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I just put on a 4-1 2Bros exhaust. Noticable midrange improvement w/o P/C. Cant tell bout the top end cause I'm hangingon for dear life anyway.
Plan on getting it mapped & dynoed in the future just cause it'll be interesting to see the HP differences w/o the P/C and with the P/C.
Plan on getting it mapped & dynoed in the future just cause it'll be interesting to see the HP differences w/o the P/C and with the P/C.
DarkerThanNight1300
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Am i the only guy in here that has had my bike run like CRAP with just the bolt ons?? I keep seeing (what seems like) everyone say you dont need a PC for bolt ons but I ended up with terrible stuttering at low rpms while cruising in traffic, sucky throttle response, and the god awful backfiring before the PCIIIusb and pair mod. Thought it was my imagination but the initial bolt-on-only dyno run indicated lost power and a TERRIBLE change in the power curve compared to stock, which confirmed my suspicions!
This bike is soooo night-and-day different after the dyno tune with its throttle response and smoothness, its scary. So to hear others say they didnt need it makes me wonder why my bike reacted so poorly to the cans alone or maybe these other people dont know what theyre missing without it! Also, it would seem to me a full exhaust system with larger diameter piping would need a PC re-map even MORE than a bolt on?? But i read other peoples posts that they didnt "need" it either! Just curious...any thoughts?
This bike is soooo night-and-day different after the dyno tune with its throttle response and smoothness, its scary. So to hear others say they didnt need it makes me wonder why my bike reacted so poorly to the cans alone or maybe these other people dont know what theyre missing without it! Also, it would seem to me a full exhaust system with larger diameter piping would need a PC re-map even MORE than a bolt on?? But i read other peoples posts that they didnt "need" it either! Just curious...any thoughts?
DarkerThanNight1300
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Also, just in case anyone was wondering what i meant by lost power (not that peak hp means a ton anyway) and power curve changes, heres what the dyno runs showed for numbers as well as my observations while riding:
stock - 156hp, 99lb ft, stock curve and throttle response
D and D bolt-on only - 155hp, 98lb ft, power curve with more dips and peaks than the rocky mountains, very poor throttle response, and backfiring that was getting worse by the day! Can you say "embarassing"?
D and D bolt-on, pair mod, PCIIIusb - 162hp, 102lb ft, power curve ridiculously smooth with more power than stock over the whole rev range, instant throttle response, and not a single backfire since the install!
BTW, all dyno runs done back-to-back-to-back the same afternoon with no signifigant changes in temp/weather so the "different day, different result" explanation is pretty unlikely! As you can see i got about 6 horses over stock which is cool, but a pretty surprising 7 hp over just the bolt ons.
Anyone out here run the D and D bolt ons with the specific D and D map from powercommander as opposed to a custom map like mine? Im interested in what they think of it versus just cans alone. Im tempted to run the 2 maps back to back at the next dyno shootout day at the dealer just to see if the custom job is worth it!
Aint technology fun?!
stock - 156hp, 99lb ft, stock curve and throttle response
D and D bolt-on only - 155hp, 98lb ft, power curve with more dips and peaks than the rocky mountains, very poor throttle response, and backfiring that was getting worse by the day! Can you say "embarassing"?
D and D bolt-on, pair mod, PCIIIusb - 162hp, 102lb ft, power curve ridiculously smooth with more power than stock over the whole rev range, instant throttle response, and not a single backfire since the install!
BTW, all dyno runs done back-to-back-to-back the same afternoon with no signifigant changes in temp/weather so the "different day, different result" explanation is pretty unlikely! As you can see i got about 6 horses over stock which is cool, but a pretty surprising 7 hp over just the bolt ons.
Anyone out here run the D and D bolt ons with the specific D and D map from powercommander as opposed to a custom map like mine? Im interested in what they think of it versus just cans alone. Im tempted to run the 2 maps back to back at the next dyno shootout day at the dealer just to see if the custom job is worth it!
Aint technology fun?!
MeltDownZ
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Even with bolt-on's only, you're going to run richer than stock. If you notice it, it's going to be in the 4k and below range. You'll probably have a surgy low end. You really can't compare your experience with a carbed engine with an EFI. The amount of fuel flow with an EFI is not dependant on the air flowing through like a carb. The EFI jets spray whatever amount of fuel they're programmed for whether or not it matches the airflow.
BRUDEH
Registered
I have bolt on Yosh's and even bought the PCIII usb and I still have the studder problems. Now they say a custom map, yeah just more money. Has anyone had the problem of the PCIII not connecting to the PC. My laptop recognizes the PCIII but when I start the bike and program it shows RPM for a second then says No Connection. I have played and played with it and cant keep a connection. I was able to keep a connection long enough last week to download a map to it but it still has not cured my studdering problems.
MeltDownZ
Registered
Are you sure you've got a good cable? Also, you may try using it with a different computer just to make sure you don't have any conflicts with yours. If you try it with a new computer and cable and that fails, you may have a bad unit.
You know a lot of things affect the fuel/air mix. If your map is off, you're going to sputter at low rpms no doubt about it. That would be especially true with a modded exhaust. While it's pricey, I would definetly recommend the custom map to ensure your setup right or it's going to drive you crazy to you do.
Also, are you sure that your sputter is not the common surge? Trying a TRE may help. But, if you're going to get a custom map, I would recommend you get the TRE first so that you can have the bike mapped with the TRE if you like it. This way, if the TRE is helping, you can be sure that you have the proper fuel mix while you have it attached. If you find that TRE isn't helping, you can unload it on eBay in 2 seconds.
DarkerThanNight1300
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hmmm, never had that problem BRUDEH...BTW, where are the stutter points in the rev range? mine had a few between 3000 and 5000 rpm...made it look like i didnt know how to ride a bike in slower city type traffic!!!
gaw
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I have d & d slip-ons. Removed the pair valve, added a K&N filter, and no backfire problems, a bit rough at slow idle, under 1000 rpm, but good response, the PCIII is a good chunk of change if not needed. I was told no PCIII if no full system.
I have no problems.
I did have the TRE on and had to remove it, it really ran rough with the TRE.
Good Luck
I have no problems.
I did have the TRE on and had to remove it, it really ran rough with the TRE.
Good Luck
BRUDEH
Registered
1500 RPM's in first around parking lots, then at speed limit between 3000 - 4500 you can feel the sputter. Especially in you are in a higher gear with RPM's up you can feel it. I have tried to maps from commander site and no difference. As far as connecting it is still a problem and it should not be the PC (Laptop) it is running XP Pro. I hope maybe its the cable. I have E-mail tech support and they came back with some crap like are your sure it was plugged in BS. I wonder if the dealer will take it back and replace it.
busa_boy_69
Registered
I bought some yoshi rs3 race baffle cans and put a K and N filter on. I noticed in high revs I would backfire every now and then. I thought maybe it just needed to be remapped with the extra airflow and cans so I bought a pc3. After installing it I haven't had a backfire since. Also I had a problem with the bike consistently dropping it's idle rpm down to as low as 875 when I first had it. After the pc3 I retwisted the throttle screw and set it to 1100 rpms and it has held it there consistantly since with a nice smooth idle. Also the reason I decided to try the pc3 was I found a hayabusa shop in NC that is a authorized dynojet tuning center so he gets mad discounts on power commanders. I only paid 210$ for mine in the original brand new packaging. The guy was really good to work with also. He told me he works on hayabusas mostly and i asked him with just slip ons would I need one. He told me " Well with just slip ons no I would say you don't but of all the busas I dynoed with slip ons there wasn't one I didn't squeeze about at least 3to4 extra ponies out of" . So that was from a dynojet tuning center. So basically it may help your bike run a little smoother plus some extra muscle. I'd pay a couple hundred for that but thats just me.
Johnnycheese
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210.00 is not a new PC3R period becuase even dist cost (not dealer) is way more than that. I bet it was a used one in a new box.
busa_boy_69
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It was new I am positive of it. It was still in the HARD plastic case that has to be cut to get into. All the paperwork and everything hadn't even been touched. I can give you the info if you wanna see for yourself.
busa_boy_69
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Oh by the way it wasn't a pc3r it was a usb version. So yes it would be cheaper then.
Johnnycheese
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they still lost money on the usb dist cost is still more than they sold it to you for. but what did they charge you for the dyno tune map?
busa_boy_69
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I didn't dyno tune it. I only have a set of yoshi slip ons and a k and n filter so I just downloaded a map from power commanders website set up for that combo.
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