So, you think you know how to tighten your chain, do you?

[MisterGDBusa]

36mm and the torque is 73 ft/lb. Or 100 n/m

Thank you sir.

 

[mjl3truck]

If you are having trouble with the chain adjustment moving when torqueing the axle nut try this. After I get my adjuster bolts set I wedge a junk small screwdriver handle between the rear scrocket and chain and roll the wheel. That way all the slack goes out of the chain and the axle adjuster blocks sit firmly on the bolts. While holding the wheel I snug up the axle nut as tight as I can then check the torque.

 

[MisterGDBusa]

So whats best.
To adjust it while on side stand?

 

[caspernz]

Have always done my bikes on the side stand. Never done them up with minimal slack either. But I've run a Scottoiler for years which not only makes sprockets and chain last longer, you go further between slack adjustments as well. Best option short of going for a shaft drive bike I reckon.

 

[MisterGDBusa]

How much horses we would loose with drive shaft instead if chain?

 

[manstersr]

You must find the tight spot in the chain, and they all have one, while on the side stand. Harbor freight tools sells a roller set up just for adjusting the chain tension. You just roll the rear wheel up the ramp and let it settle between the rollers and set the bike on the side stand then in neutral roll the rear wheel until you find the tight spot of the chain. It's not a bad idea to push down on the rear seat a couple times to settle the suspension too before you start adjusting. I adjusted my chain without finding the tight spot, now my output shaft of the engine has a bearing noise that isn't going away. I may have to change it soon. They also sell a large vernier caliper that can be used to check the chain stretch. You know, where you measure so many links and if it's over spec it means the chain is stretched/worn too far and could pop. Don't forget to loosen up the Rr caliper rod bolt to alow it to pivot when you move the wheel back and forth. Good luck. Hey, why don't you clean and lube it while you are at it?

 

[jellyrug]

When I did this the first time, I put the bike on a rear stand and used a strap to pull the back wheel up, compressing the rear shock. I found the spot where the swing-arm moves the chain into its tightest spot (center of front counter sprocket aligns with center of rear sprocket and center-line of swing-arm) and adjusted the chain so there is almost no slack, turning the back wheel to make sure there are no tight spots. Put the bike back on its side stand and the measurement was 22mm, or slightly North of 0.8 of an inch which is basically what the service manual says.

So, I believe the SM is fine provided the bike has stock suspension, swing-arms and has not been lowered.

 

[sixpack577]

I've always adjusted chains with ME, the rider, sitting on the bike, bike upright off of the stand.
Reach down, check slack, adjust, snug bolts, re-check, tighten, check again, done. An extra set of hands helps if you haven't done it this way before.
If you adjust it on the side stand, and according to the owners manual; that means that the chain is set correctly for the 150lb rider, and the 250lb rider...until they get on the bike. Then everything changes.
Too loose, chain rattles, wears out faster, can come off, causing damage and/or a crash.
Too tight, chain pops, wears out faster, can break, causing damage and/or crash. Not to mention the rear suspension cannot function correctly. And, if the rear suspension can't work right, it's going to throw off the front and overall handling also.

 

[proud dad]

How much horses we would loose with drive shaft instead if chain?

5-7% more power loss over the chain