something is wrong w/ my clutch again

[mikeled86]

hey all I am having a problem with my clutch again. It was warm for the first time in a couple of weeks so I wanted to ride I let my bike warm up for a little bit then I was back out of the drive in neutral and as soon as I get to the the street I shifted to 1st with the clutch pulled in and the bike started to pull forward(not fast just inching) and I noticed my clutch felt a little loose so I pushed it back in the drive drive and was giving it a couple of test runs in the driveway and it got to where I couldn't get it out of neutral and the wouldn't engage at all. Last time something like this happened it was air in the clutch line I am hoping that this is it. so anyway I have a couple of questions about this problem. How do you bleed the clutch?(normally I just take it to the dealer but I won't have the trailer back for a while)Why would this keep happen? and it only happens after it sits for a couple weeks I am sure I need new mastercylinders(damaged from wreck) so I am going to replace those this winter.

 

[Aquaman]

Sounds to me you have a leak somewhere in the system

 

[DropBusa]

+1.

 

[mikeled86]

I am thinking it is leaking from the mastercylnder bc I didn't have this problem before the wreck and I didn't replace the cylnders afterward and they were damaged I will crop a pic and post of what they look like

 

[suzuki4life]

IMHO...change your clutch cylinder to an 08 gix1k unit. Replace the line with an ss line and get a mity vac. Only thing "better" than this is the cable conversion and the clutches are easier to pull hydraulic soooooooo that is an opinion and toss up.

 

[roadthing]

If your clutch was dragging, it could be something simple.

As previously suggested, you might have a leak. Check around the bleeder nipples, around the master cylinder gaskets and cover screws, and also around the banjo fittings.

If you are running a heavy weight oil and you let the bike sit for a few weeks, the clutch plates may be temporarily gummed up (goes away with use).

 

[mikeled86]

IMHO...change your clutch cylinder to an 08 gix1k unit. Replace the line with an ss line and get a mity vac. Only thing "better" than this is the cable conversion and the clutches are easier to pull hydraulic soooooooo that is an opinion and toss up.

is this a pretty easy change?

 

[suzuki4life]

is this a pretty easy change?

master cylinder bolts on using 2 bolts. Worst part is bleeding the line....so you'll need a mity vac either way


sears has them.

 

[mikeled86]

If your clutch was dragging, it could be something simple.

As previously suggested, you might have a leak. Check around the bleeder nipples, around the master cylinder gaskets and cover screws, and also around the banjo fittings.

If you are running a heavy weight oil and you let the bike sit for a few weeks, the clutch plates may be temporarily gummed up (goes away with use).

The clutch wont engage at all when I down shift (with the clutch compressed) it jumps and stalls and wont cycle through the gears. I have not noticed any fluids leaking. I don't want to sound stupid but where is the bleeder valve I normally just have the stealership do it

 

[suzuki4life]

The clutch wont engage at all when I down shift (with the clutch compressed) it jumps and stalls and wont cycle through the gears. I have not noticed any fluids leaking. I don't want to sound stupid but where is the bleeder valve I normally just have the stealership do it

problem sounds worse than just bleeding but the zerk fitting is located ont he clutch slave cylinder on the sprocket cover...just follow the line.

left side of the bike back at the chain.

 

[mikeled86]

problem sounds worse than just bleeding but the zerk fitting is located ont he clutch slave cylinder on the sprocket cover...just follow the line.

left side of the bike back at the chain.

thanks well thats what the problem was before( pretty much the same thing happened) and the stealership took apart the clutch and tranny last time to check it out and make sure everything was on the up and up and everything was fine until I let it sit for a couple of weeks again this happens when I don't ride it for a bit the last time it happened was during the rebuild after the wreck and it sat for about two or three weeks

 

[suzuki4life]

I'll look and see if I have any parts you can swap in. Pretty sure I have a clutch slave cylinder. Not sure on the master though.

 

[mikeled86]

I'll look and see if I have any parts you can swap in. Pretty sure I have a clutch slave cylinder. Not sure on the master though.

cool I have tomorrow and the next day off so I will get a vac and bleed it and see how it goes

 

[Mr Bogus]

Clutch is not disengaging and is due either to a mechanical clutch issue or the hydraulics have air in them. I see no reason to convert the clutch system to anything other than what it came with. The stuff they came with seems to work ok for most everyone.

When a hydraulic clutch system leaks, the almost never let air in, they just let fluid out, the top goes dry and lets air in the system.. if the slave is leaking, they typically just let fluid out as there is no vacuum to pull in air..

I would start by bleeding the clutch system first..

Get a piece of tubing to fit over the bleeder nipple at the clutch slave (that is the bottom piece), maybe 18" or so long
A fresh container of DOT4 fluid (12oz should be more than adequate)

Get a small container you can see through, set it on the ground and put the end of the hose in it and the other end over the bleeder top..
Open the top of the master cylinder (the part up top) make sure it is full
now open the bleeder down below where the hose is hooked up and let it run

Initially there will be some bubbles but they will go away.. continue to let the thing run (3 or 4 ounces).. close the bleeder and pull the clutch a couple times and see how it feels.. should be easy at first and then go pretty solid..

Then open the bleeder again and let maybe another 6 ounces or so of fluid run through.. there is a lot of line on these.. (you may or may not get any more bubbles)

if you get more bubbles, just let it run till there are no more..

close the bleeder, try the clutch... might have to do this a couple times if it is really bad.. DO NOT reuse any of the fluid you get out

 

[mikeled86]

Clutch is not disengaging and is due either to a mechanical clutch issue or the hydraulics have air in them. I see no reason to convert the clutch system to anything other than what it came with. The stuff they came with seems to work ok for most everyone.

When a hydraulic clutch system leaks, the almost never let air in, they just let fluid out, the top goes dry and lets air in the system.. if the slave is leaking, they typically just let fluid out as there is no vacuum to pull in air..

I would start by bleeding the clutch system first..

Get a piece of tubing to fit over the bleeder nipple at the clutch slave (that is the bottom piece), maybe 18" or so long
A fresh container of DOT4 fluid (12oz should be more than adequate)

Get a small container you can see through, set it on the ground and put the end of the hose in it and the other end over the bleeder top..
Open the top of the master cylinder (the part up top) make sure it is full
now open the bleeder down below where the hose is hooked up and let it run

Initially there will be some bubbles but they will go away.. continue to let the thing run (3 or 4 ounces).. close the bleeder and pull the clutch a couple times and see how it feels.. should be easy at first and then go pretty solid..

Then open the bleeder again and let maybe another 6 ounces or so of fluid run through.. there is a lot of line on these.. (you may or may not get any more bubbles)

if you get more bubbles, just let it run till there are no more..

close the bleeder, try the clutch... might have to do this a couple times if it is really bad.. DO NOT reuse any of the fluid you get out

Thanks for the write up do I fill as I go or fill after bleeding complete and do you know what the o.d. of the hose needed to do this or does it matter I will be sure to get this done tomorrow or wednesday.

 

[suzuki4life]

The clutch wont engage at all when I down shift (with the clutch compressed) it jumps and stalls and wont cycle through the gears. I have not noticed any fluids leaking. I don't want to sound stupid but where is the bleeder valve I normally just have the stealership do it

you do realize, that if a clutch won't "engage" then your bike is there just free revving....Bike can't really "jump" if its not in gear unless tis shutting off or extremely bad idle.

You disengage a clutch to shift and then re-engage it to go forward.

 

[suzuki4life]

tubing must securely fit over the nipple of the zerk fitting....

gravity bleeding (what is described) is okay....but clutch are notoriously hard to bleed...I still recommend getting a mity vac.

 

[mikeled86]

tubing must securely fit over the nipple of the zerk fitting....

gravity bleeding (what is described) is okay....but clutch are notoriously hard to bleed...I still recommend getting a mity vac.

mity vac it is I will bleed and let you guys know I will prob do an oil change as well I am going to try and it done tomorrow ( if I am not hung over to bad)

 

[suzuki4life]

these work fine.

Mity Vac Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit - Model 07000 at Sears.com