Spark Plugs Changed

UncleSteve

Gear good - roadrash bad
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Mine is a Gen 2. Gen 1 is similar.
I am going to post a how to for those who have not changed their plugs and may want to. For me having pictures and a little instruction, makes the job easier.

I will try to list most of the steps, some of the not so obvious things to make the job go a little easier.

1. Silicon spray for rubber parts, cleans and lubricates the coil packs so they go back together easier
2. Anti seize for plug threads
3. Air compressor to blow out the sparks plug wells BEFORE removing the plug.
4. Rubber fuel line, for installing the new plugs. Helps prevent cross threading.
5. Magnet - to remove the old plug after it is loose.

To get started, I did not take pictures removing the seat, or raising the gas tank.

The first pic will show the tank up and how to remove the air cleaner box. No need to take the air cleaner apart. Leave the air box in one piece.

First picture is on the left side of the air box. Remove the electrical connector and loosen the clamp for the injector stacks. You need a 3mm allen T-handle. This loosens the two stacks on the left. Repeat on the right side.

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Next remove the hoses on the back side and right front of the airbox. Also remove the bolt on the front top center of the airbox. 10mm socket or wrench is needed.

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The electrical connector on the right rear of the airbox will slide off the holder.

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When you have all hoses/connectors loose, the top bolt out and the two clamps loose. You have to lift the air box off. It is not easy and can be a little frustrating. Work on lifting both sides, alternating back and forth.

After you remove the air box, COVER the intakes with a towel, shop rags or cloth fender cover. This may save you a major headache.

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You're just a few days late, changed mine out friday night, pretty easy job and took me about 1.5 hours. Wish i would have thought about the fuel tubing trick before. Went to drop my first plug in and it slipped right off the spark plug socket and fell into the cavity. Had to pull it out with my magnet and check the gap and everything, but it was still fine

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thanks for posting this man, I am waiting for my plugs/ air filter to arrive. and have never changed em yet so thank you !:thumbsup:
 
Good how to by the way. My plugs had about 8000 miles on them but i surprisingly noticed smoother idling and throttle response my first time out after the change

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Locate the coil packs and locate the electrical connector release tab (3rd pic). Push the tab to release the connector and slide it off. Now is a good time to blow dirt away from the top of the head around the spark plugs.
Turn the coil and gently pull it out.

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The 1st picture shows removing the old spark plug with a magnet. My socket was old - like me , and would not hold onto the spark plug.
Clean and lube the coil pack with silicon spray, lube the new plug with anti-seize (a little goes a long way)
Attach the fuel hose, screw in by hand until the plug hits bottom, then give it just enough to smash the crush washer and a little more. Do not over tighten them. I grab the ratchet and turn using only my wrist to prevent over tightening.
Again, the socket would not hold the plug during installation and dropping it down the well might change the gap setting. Not worth the risk and why make more work? The fuel line is cheap and most of us have some around the tool box.

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HAHAHAHAHA! Why didnt you post this 2 hours earlier...I changed the plugs on my BUSA for the first time around 5PM today. Pretty simple as long as you take your time and pay attention to what your doing. Step by step PICS are awesome for people like me...thanks for posting! :cheerleader:
 
Thanks for the write up. That fuel line trick works great for cars as well and really saves a lot of head aches.
 
When installing the coils push them down gently, when the engage the spark plug, continue to apply pressure until it bottoms out. Reconnect the electrical connector and go on to the next one.
Note: The left cylinder is the only one that the connector is pointed to the left. All others point to the rear. Check your work, it took you too long to get in here. Push on all four coil packs to be sure they are seated properly and recheck all 4 electrical connectors.

Install the air box and tighten. Be diligent checking the rubber boots on the intake stacks. They can be stubborn. Especially the 2 inside boots. The clamps tighten two at a time on the gen 2.

Attach all connectors and hoses.

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This is a fairly easy thing to do and can save you $$. However, it can turn into a major nightmare. Cross threading a plug, dropping a foreign object into a cylinder, or intake can turn fairly straight forward maintenance into a major headache and repair bill. Take your time and take precautions. Do not get distracted. It is not a race. You don't want to find out later on the road you did not connect something properly or forgot altogether. Check throttle linkage and be sure it returns properly. Make sure nothing was moved and not put back the way it should be. It is not easy to get back inside the Busa while sitting on the side of the road. :whistle:
 
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