sprockets chains and cush...oh my!

[chrisjp]

got down and dirty last night and decided to tackle replaceing the chain and sprockets and cush drive... im not sure how to add pics and comments after each so bear with me as i load and comment


ok for the cheap ones in the group (me especialy) here is my $20 bike lift (yes i can do rear and front by lifting this way) ok here is the list of tools to cheaply (and safely) lift your bike to work on. 3/8 steel bar, 2 car jacks, 4"x6"x4" wood bases, car jack, 2 2x4's

 

[chrisjp]

put one 2x4 on floor and drive bike up on it and stop. (this gives enough clearance to put jack under bike) and then put another 2x4 infront of front tire to keep from rollling. put 3/8 steel rod through swingarm piviot.

 

[chrisjp]

grab a cute willing assistant...

 

[chrisjp]

position blocks and jack stands infront of where the 3/8 steel bar goes through the swingarm piviot nut.

 

[chrisjp]

now even if you are just going to stand it vertical just tip upright off kick stand and slide jack stands under bar on both ends and raise to meet bar...bike will then just rest on jack stands but upright.

 

[chrisjp]

position the car jack under where the belly wing and ferring split bolts are (also with mine the exhaust sits just above that also...

 

[chrisjp]

now gently lift the bike up with the jack...have your assistant help you hold it vertical while you jack it up.. (honestly the bike balances well and i can jack it up and controll it by holding the seat and guiding it if it starts to go off balance. once bike is jacked up high enough use one hand to slide over the block and set your jack stand on top of it under the 3/8 bar. (now once one stand is locked you can keep weight on that side as you move around to other side to repeat) assistant can do this at same time..get both jack stands same height. then lower the jack slowly to rest on the jack stands and remove the 2x4 under the rear wheel (keep it around so when you take bike down off stands it again goes under wheel so you can get jack out from under bike)

 

[chrisjp]

now if you are doing front end work...simply have someone push down on back end or sit on the seat to lift the front wheel...stack some 2x4s under there the pipes come down...and you have both wheels off ground (can store this way too to keep forks from being compressed all winter)

 

[chrisjp]

ok now getting ready to replace the front sprocket i removed the 2 phillips head bolts and simply swung the coolant tank out of way.

 

[chrisjp]

then i loosend the 14mm bold holding the kick stand switch, took the gear shift off (one 10mm bolt to loosen it and remember/mark where you have it adjusted at..mine was about the 5 o'clock position for the pinch slot) the 4 , 7mm bolts holding on the sprocket cover..(remember the short bolt is the left bottom one) and swing the sprocket cover out of the way (i used some twine to tye it to the side)

 

[chrisjp]

next i took my handy dandy dremmel and grinded the one link flush on the old master link, and used my 9$ harbor freight chain breaker to push out the old pin and the removed the chain.

 

[chrisjp]

oh here is the dremmel

 

[chrisjp]

now remove the rear wheel by first loosening the rear break piviot nut (14mm front and back) remove the cotter pin,and a 35mm socket and breaker bar to remove the axel nut. use a rubber mallet to push out the axel and then pull it the rest of the way out by holding the tire up and pulling

 

[chrisjp]

my cush drive rubbers were so wore my sprocket assembly fell right out...here is couple pics of the old sprocket and cush drive rubbers. then i replaced the cush drives with sensi's stiffer set of rubbers

 

[chrisjp]

i then removed the 6 nuts holding the rear sprocket to the assembly (14mm nut)

 

[chrisjp]

next remove the allen head bolt holding the speed nut. and remove, then useing i think a 36-37mm wich i didnt have but my 1 1/4 star fit perfectly and with a rubber mallet break it loose.. (just trying to turn it only turned the motor)

 

[chrisjp]

i generously greased the wheel bearings and re assembled the new rear sprocket and torqued to 43.5 ft-lbs the 14mm nuts

 

[chrisjp]

replace with new front sprocket and torque to 105. ft lbs (my torque wrench only went up to 70 so i snuged it a bit more with rubber mallet and breaker bar) and replace the speed sensor nut and allen head bolt (think 30 ft lbs)

 

[chrisjp]

time to feed the new chain through the front sprocket then remount the rear wheel.

 

[chrisjp]

useing my harbor freight chain breaker i pushed the master link plate over the pins (i made a special plate but i found it was difficult to line up..if you take it slowly you can use the push pin to squeeze it on to the right width) .860-.870 make sure plenty of grease on the o rings both sides. (take the open nut on bottom of chain breaker (on left) out to give flat back to push against)