im getting the ohlins and the gpr. my stabilizer will be stable 
stabilizer ?
- Thread starter kennym4
- Start date
kennym4
Registered
That was a BOLD statement
I know a few people that can take their bike to it's limits......see them on T.V. all the time
Having fun is what life is all about. A good attitude and good humor will make you live a longer healthier life! I intend to live to 110 and get shot by a jealous husband!
Or someone pi$$ed off about you talking about their Dampner
Or someone pi$$ed off about you talking about their Dampner
Kenny, DAMPER not dampner! Doyle
kennym4
Registered
See, I keep learning
Just goes to show you how much I know about it, can't even say it correctly !!
Does anyone know a GPR regional manager?
Yep! ME!
Send that GPR unit to me and I'll see to it that it's serviced properly with 90wt and get R back to you in 5 working days!
You do know 90w is the proper mod for any damper!
Munchie
Registered
Tuf, a question for you - and anyone else that would like to respond...
With regard to rake/trail and your reference to Raydogs "busa in heat" stance, I am curious about your opinion on what happens - generally speaking - with a slight change in stock setups.
I would like to lower my front end 1 - 1.5" by sliding the forks through the triple trees, and raise the back 1 - 1.5" - on a stock GenII (09) busa using "dogbones".
With regard to the current discussion about steering dampers and bike reaction due to rake and trail setups, would you say the this would make my bike slightly more unstable due to being more "on top of the front wheel" instead of "behind it"? In that case, would a damper be more heavily recommended?
Or, would you say this change would cause my steering to move more toward the stable end of the spectrum - with the stock setup being used as the reference point.
On my 01 Busa (RIP due to highside
), this was my setup (1.5" down in front and 1.5" up in back). When I made the change, it was to stand flat footed at redlights and get my feet and the lower plastics higher to quit draggin em on pavement when really pushing the bike over through the turns.
When I made that change, I really felt like the bike took a huge improvement toward better cornering as compared to before the change...
With a tie-in back to the original poster's topic of steering dampening/along with the evolved discussions of headshake, tracking, steering input/pressure on the bars, etc...would you mind covering a little info as for your thoughts on what these geometry changes would do - generally speaking.
My riding style is center seat, not hanging off the bike at all, with heavy pressure on the bars to push the bike over...I already know that's completely wrong, but being honest here.
With regard to rake/trail and your reference to Raydogs "busa in heat" stance
, I am curious about your opinion on what happens - generally speaking - with a slight change in stock setups.I would like to lower my front end 1 - 1.5" by sliding the forks through the triple trees, and raise the back 1 - 1.5" - on a stock GenII (09) busa using "dogbones".
With regard to the current discussion about steering dampers and bike reaction due to rake and trail setups, would you say the this would make my bike slightly more unstable due to being more "on top of the front wheel" instead of "behind it"? In that case, would a damper be more heavily recommended?
Or, would you say this change would cause my steering to move more toward the stable end of the spectrum - with the stock setup being used as the reference point.
On my 01 Busa (RIP due to highside
), this was my setup (1.5" down in front and 1.5" up in back). When I made the change, it was to stand flat footed at redlights and get my feet and the lower plastics higher to quit draggin em on pavement when really pushing the bike over through the turns.When I made that change, I really felt like the bike took a huge improvement toward better cornering as compared to before the change...
With a tie-in back to the original poster's topic of steering dampening/along with the evolved discussions of headshake, tracking, steering input/pressure on the bars, etc...would you mind covering a little info as for your thoughts on what these geometry changes would do - generally speaking.
My riding style is center seat, not hanging off the bike at all, with heavy pressure on the bars to push the bike over...I already know that's completely wrong
, but being honest here.
Are you sure?
You've done the research to confirm the words have utterly different meanings?
cheers
ken
Tuf, a question for you - and anyone else that would like to respond...
With regard to rake/trail and your reference to Raydogs "busa in heat" stance
I would like to lower my front end 1 - 1.5" by sliding the forks through the triple trees, and raise the back 1 - 1.5" - on a stock GenII (09) busa using "dogbones".
With regard to the current discussion about steering dampers and bike reaction due to rake and trail setups, would you say the this would make my bike slightly more unstable due to being more "on top of the front wheel" instead of "behind it"? In that case, would a damper be more heavily recommended?
Or, would you say this change would cause my steering to move more toward the stable end of the spectrum - with the stock setup being used as the reference point.
On my 01 Busa (RIP due to highside
When I made that change, I really felt like the bike took a huge improvement toward better cornering as compared to before the change...
With a tie-in back to the original poster's topic of steering dampening/along with the evolved discussions of headshake, tracking, steering input/pressure on the bars, etc...would you mind covering a little info as for your thoughts on what these geometry changes would do - generally speaking.
My riding style is center seat, not hanging off the bike at all, with heavy pressure on the bars to push the bike over...I already know that's completely wrong
1.5 inches up in back along with down in front makes a huge change in geometry. And my guess is if the notorious highside snake bit you, the change in geometry most certainly contributed to the crash.
Trail is the arm that centers your steering when you push on the bar to turn and then relax once the turn in is complete. The longer the arm (Trail Length) the easier it is for the bike to correct the steering. When you shorten that arm by lowering the front, raising the back or in your case, both, you have shortened that arm which gives the bike less leverage to do it's job.
Your 1.5 inch adjustments on both ends has given the bike a faster tip in advantage at the cost of stability. My bike has a 5mm shim under the shock so you can see you have exceeded my preference by leaps and bounds.
You have also made a dramatic change in your swingarm angle (Steeper) which will make the rear spin up easily on accelleration. I'm guessing you most likely spun the rear while accellerating out of a corner instigating your highside, no?
Swingarm angle controls squat as well as something called anti-squat. To much squat as you see in drag bikes forces the rear tire into the pavement for traction at a cost of lifting the front on corner exits making the bike run wide. To little squat makes the rear spin up easily which stirs the soul of the infamous highside snake and brings him to life! Your setup of 1.5 down in front and up in rear certainly has the highside snake coiled and ready to strike!
Last edited:
Since we are on the subject..Hey Tuf..how about a great price on a GPR V4?????
Hey Man, I'll take it! What's your Paypal address?
Twenty Bucks $$$$$$$$$$$$$
Hey Man, I'll take it! What's your Paypal address?
Twenty Bucks $$$$$$$$$$$$$
... You're going to pay me $20 to take your GPR? awe ur such a nice guy! But just ship it to me for free and we'll call it even!
Munchie
Registered
1.5 inches up in back along with down in front makes a huge change in geometry. And my guess is if the notorious highside snake bit you, the change in geometry most certainly contributed to the crash.
Trail is the arm that centers your steering when you push on the bar to turn and then relax once the turn in is complete. The longer the arm (Trail Length) the easier it is for the bike to correct the steering. When you shorten that arm by lowering the front, raising the back or in your case, both, you have shortened that arm which gives the bike less leverage to do it's job.
Your 1.5 inch adjustments on both ends has given the bike a faster tip in advantage at the cost of stability. My bike has a 5mm shim under the shock so you can see you have exceeded my preference by leaps and bounds.
You have also made a dramatic change in your swingarm angle (Steeper) which will make the rear spin up easily on accelleration. I'm guessing you most likely spun the rear while accellerating out of a corner instigating your highside, no?
Swingarm angle controls squat as well as something called anti-squat. To much squat as you see in drag bikes forces the rear tire into the pavement for traction at a cost of lifting the front on corner exits making the bike run wide. To little squat makes the rear spin up easily which stirs the soul of the infamous highside snake and brings him to life! Your setup of 1.5 down in front and up in rear certainly has the highside snake coiled and ready to strike!
Alright guys, bear with me please....slight threadjack in progress, but it does still pertain the the stabilizer question at the end...
lease:Dang Tuf...it's like you were there for the show! It happened EXACTLY as you predicted. I had just fell in with a new "crew" - fast group of dudes with me on my Busa coming from a 96 VFR 750. I was learning and trying to keep up week after week and making progress, but when I made the lowering/raising changes, it was like I had a different bike.
It just fell in the corners, awesome! Push on the bars until the plastic started dragging (Dragon's Tail was my favorite for this)...powering out of turns, lifting the front on exit, black checks left in the pavement from hard acceleration out of the turns...until the highside. We were bottled behind cages on a mountain road when a passing lane/zone opened up. Nailed the gas - the lane basicaly closed back up where the next turn would be, so I was charging. I was coming into a hard left turn, had it leaned over, nailed the gas as I had done a thousand times before - lit the rear, bike turned sideways - as I slammed the throttle shut, 3, 2, 1, liftoff!
You and I have have actually discussed this a little in the past. I bought a GENII Black and Grey, but never got this thing to move like I remembered from my 01'...I eventually recreated the lowering/raising changes as I had done on the 01', but never came close to where I was.
and then....Munchie's Down - Old Lady Got Me!
I bought an 09 Silver two weeks ago Friday and went to Dragon's Tail the next day for a three day stay. My 09 is killer! when compared to my 08...wild how much of a difference I feel between an 08 I bought new and an 09 I bought with 450 miles. I haven't touched the 09, but it handles sooo much better. But...the front is a little tall for me and I still feel like the bike is holding me back a little (from the memory I have of where "I was"), so I considered lowering it...and then I read this thread...
So back to the original topic, from details above, can I make these changes to kill it through the corners, but offset that by any aftermarket stabilzer/hardware to try to keep it more stable on exit? Would a stabiizer help at all with preventing the rear from stepping out on hard exits? ???
Can you make any recommendation for my goal? I am only interested in cornering, and throwing the bike through the turns...switchbacks are my favorite! Is raising the rear prefered versus lowering the front for cornering? I see both is definitely not recommended...and explained very well.
Or in general, does this just create an unstable situation that a stabilizer would not be able to offset? ANY help on this is subject is greatly appreciated...even if its telling me I have everything completely wrong...some of the most respected corner carvers have already spoken. I welcome all opinions
Last edited:
02spool
Registered
Try a set of 1 " raising links(soupys) for the back.They can be lowered an inch too,for drag,lsr.
This, with or without a 55 rear will improve the handling of the bike.A lot of members here have done this with no complaints(only praise)for this mod.I love the diff.
I noticed,owning both gens, that the gen 2 has even more of a bias for drag racing from the factory.
I would guess this is where many bikes end up? and they cater to that crowd more.They still do dominate there and in LSR.
This mod gives you more ground clearence too.
This, with or without a 55 rear will improve the handling of the bike.A lot of members here have done this with no complaints(only praise)for this mod.I love the diff.
I noticed,owning both gens, that the gen 2 has even more of a bias for drag racing from the factory.
I would guess this is where many bikes end up? and they cater to that crowd more.They still do dominate there and in LSR.
This mod gives you more ground clearence too.
Personally Munchie, I wouldn't ride a bike with those adjustments without an Ohlins adjustable damper. If that's the way you intend to set your bike up, by all means put an aftermarket damper onboard.
I would not trade stability for quick turn in anyway. I much prefer a bike set up that's on the forgiving side. I don't mind throwing a little muscle in to pitch the fat chick on her lips. I want it to behave in a manner that will allow me confidence. I've riden bikes that would put the fear of God in you and they are no fun to ride and impossible to ride fast.
To answer your question "would a stabilizer help at all with preventing the rear from stepping out", NO! The damper will only help you maintain control once the bike is out of shape. However, your set up will most definately make the rear spin more readily.
I see some guys raising their busa an inch in the back and it seems to make them happy. That's a little to much for me but some say they like the way it turns in with a one inch rear lift. I would suspect they loose on the exit what they may gain on the entry.
The best rider I know on a busa (GregBob) rides it bone stock. Nothing done to the suspension other than sag, compression, rebound and stock damper. I helped him with the set up and he furnishes the balls. Seems to be a great combination
Keep us posted on what and how you set your new ride up! It's always good to get performance feedback from first hand riders!
I would not trade stability for quick turn in anyway. I much prefer a bike set up that's on the forgiving side. I don't mind throwing a little muscle in to pitch the fat chick on her lips. I want it to behave in a manner that will allow me confidence. I've riden bikes that would put the fear of God in you and they are no fun to ride and impossible to ride fast.
To answer your question "would a stabilizer help at all with preventing the rear from stepping out", NO! The damper will only help you maintain control once the bike is out of shape. However, your set up will most definately make the rear spin more readily.
I see some guys raising their busa an inch in the back and it seems to make them happy. That's a little to much for me but some say they like the way it turns in with a one inch rear lift. I would suspect they loose on the exit what they may gain on the entry.
The best rider I know on a busa (GregBob) rides it bone stock. Nothing done to the suspension other than sag, compression, rebound and stock damper. I helped him with the set up and he furnishes the balls. Seems to be a great combination
Keep us posted on what and how you set your new ride up! It's always good to get performance feedback from first hand riders!
See, I keep learning
Just goes to show you how much I know about it, can't even say it correctly !!
Are you sure?
You've done the research to confirm the words have utterly different meanings?
cheers
ken
cheers
ken
Munchie
Registered
Personally Munchie, I wouldn't ride a bike with those adjustments without an Ohlins adjustable damper. If that's the way you intend to set your bike up, by all means put an aftermarket damper onboard.
I would not trade stability for quick turn in anyway. I much prefer a bike set up that's on the forgiving side. I don't mind throwing a little muscle in to pitch the fat chick on her lips. I want it to behave in a manner that will allow me confidence. I've riden bikes that would put the fear of God in you and they are no fun to ride and impossible to ride fast.
To answer your question "would a stabilizer help at all with preventing the rear from stepping out", NO! The damper will only help you maintain control once the bike is out of shape. However, your set up will most definately make the rear spin more readily.
I see some guys raising their busa an inch in the back and it seems to make them happy. That's a little to much for me but some say they like the way it turns in with a one inch rear lift. I would suspect they loose on the exit what they may gain on the entry.
The best rider I know on a busa (GregBob) rides it bone stock. Nothing done to the suspension other than sag, compression, rebound and stock damper. I helped him with the set up and he furnishes the balls. Seems to be a great combination
Keep us posted on what and how you set your new ride up! It's always good to get performance feedback from first hand riders!
Thanks a ton Tuf...I think I will stick with your recommendations on this latest bike for a little more seat time with the stock setup. I can't explain why, and I wont say that anything was wrong with my 08...but this 09 is drastically different with regard to handling (and has MUCH more vibration in the bars???).
I do like the idea of the 55 series rear tire...I think that would affect the tip-in without affecting the geometry very much (I do understand the tire will physically be taller but only by a small amount).
Also, I definitely need to do the the suspension setup as you mentioned. I never went through that with my 08 and should have - I will get it on this one. I've seen "Jinkster's Suspension Setup" thread...is this still the prefered method of attack?
Also, is there a recommended reference (books, website, etc.) for picking up on this stuff - suspension, cornering, bike adjustments, stabilizer function, etc.?
Thanks again Tuf...and sorry for the threadjack! Although, it did result in a recommended instance for the stabilizer!
Last edited:
Similar threads
