so would a 300 hp setup, PROPERLY TUNED, last a fair amount of time? i don't know what injectors are available. i'd want something small enough so i could use decent fuel pressure at idle and low revs, for proper atomization, but big enough that on the bravo map (secondary ecu map), i could tune it for 300 hp.
already sort of planned the tune setup. map "a" would be wastegate boost (maybe 8 psi), moderate tune, maybe 225 hp, nothing crazy. flip a switch (greg's nitrous harness, hooked to a dual stage boost controller, using the airbox solenoid to trigger the second stage of the boost controller) and you have the high boost map (14 psi?) tuned to ~300 hp, when you really need to illicit a bowel movement. wish i had a shop to figure it out.
Air-to-air or water-to-air intercooling is more efficient, and the better way to go. A Stage One on a Gen 1 (stock motor) will make 250-260 RWHP easily on pump gas . . . let me know if its a Gen 2 you are referring to.
so would a 300 hp setup, PROPERLY TUNED, last a fair amount of time? i don't know what injectors are available. i'd want something small enough so i could use decent fuel pressure at idle and low revs, for proper atomization, but big enough that on the bravo map (secondary ecu map), i could tune it for 300 hp.
already sort of planned the tune setup. map "a" would be wastegate boost (maybe 8 psi), moderate tune, maybe 225 hp, nothing crazy. flip a switch (greg's nitrous harness, hooked to a dual stage boost controller, using the airbox solenoid to trigger the second stage of the boost controller) and you have the high boost map (14 psi?) tuned to ~300 hp, when you really need to illicit a bowel movement. wish i had a shop to figure it out.
An intercooler lowers the temperature of the intake charge. the turbo heats the air when compressing it, an intercooler lowers that temp before it enters the combustion chamber. Cooler air is more dense, which makes more power. Think of it like this: An engine is essentially an air pump. More air in and out, more power. Inside each cylinder you can fit a specific amount of air, measured in cubic centimeters (a little less than 325 cc's on a gen 1) at a given temperature. When using forced induction, a turbo or blower compresses air, forcing more than that 325 ccs into the cylinder. Compressed air heats and expands due to friction from the molecules. Let's suppose for arguments' sake that the amount of air in the cylinder is now 600ccs. (I have no idea how much extra air is actually forced in so this number may be way off, but it will work for this example.) If the air being forced in is cooled, it condenses thus more of it can be crammed in to the cylinder at the same pressure. For the sake of this discussion, let's say the cylinder will now contain 700 ccs of air. You can now see why and how forced induction makes more power, and intercooling is better. Nitrous carries more oxygen molecules into the cylinder than ambient air, but doesn't compress it and heat it up. It actually has a cooling effect on the intake air also, that's one of the reasons it adds power. Both forced induction and spray essentially make a given cylinder act as if it has a larger capacity than it actually does. If you go to your local drag strip, you will see the serious bracket racers with weather stations. Even a small increase in barometric pressure caused by a high or low pressure weather system will cause them to run different numbers. Hope this helps.......
It sounds like you pretty much figured it out already. You just need a shop to actually hook it all up and set up your maps on a dyno . . .
