stage 1.5 rcc?

Financially and streetability will be my only limitations. I cant jump out of airplanes anymore and this is the closest thing. Being a jumpmaster and putting your face out the door or tail of a bird at 1k or so feet and getting that inflated face feeling, priceless! Being honest to myself, I should have way more track time and racing experience on 2 wheels to consider 300+ horse but fear of the unknown hasnt ever really been a deterrent for me.
 
It's definitly a big investment, but believe me when I say they are worth every penny. Ain't nothing like maxing out a stage 1-2 turbo without having to put a drop of race fuel in it. On my old bike I've run as lean as 12.2 @ 23psi in the summer Texas heat with stock Pistons, on our crappy ethanol heavy fuel, and have never had any signs of detonation. that engine would of melted at 10psi running that lean. And I did it for a whole summer of abuse.
 
Kevin Jones said:
Financially and streetability will be my only limitations. I cant jump out of airplanes anymore and this is the closest thing. Being a jumpmaster and putting your face out the door or tail of a bird at 1k or so feet and getting that inflated face feeling, priceless! Being honest to myself, I should have way more track time and racing experience on 2 wheels to consider 300+ horse but fear of the unknown hasnt ever really been a deterrent for me.
Click to expand...
I think i am a bit late on this but here it goes...
I am Jumping all the time (free fall) and i can tell you that a Hayabusa turbo is money well spent.
If i compare the adrenaline flow of a HALO jump with a turbo full throttle run, i would go with the turbo run those days...
I admit that i am used to jump from a plane so the sensation is not that great now.
Make sure you build it right including an intercooler otherwise you will regret it.
Chris
 
hendrixgr said:
I think i am a bit late on this but here it goes...
I am Jumping all the time (free fall) and i can tell you that a Hayabusa turbo is money well spent.
If i compare the adrenaline flow of a HALO jump with a turbo full throttle run, i would go with the turbo run those days...
I admit that i am used to jump from a plane so the sensation is not that great now.
Make sure you build it right including an intercooler otherwise you will regret it.
Chris
Click to expand...
Oh,Kevin is definitely building it right. Ultra plenum is sitting in his garage waiting for the engine build:bowdown:
 
I actually fitted and installed it, just didnt hook up the secondaries. Water pump was easy peasy. Fits good, the intercooler was a little close to the fender for my liking, probably no big deal but I trimmed it down to make sure it doesnt touch the fins at all. I did have a little brake line slack that kinda rubbed the fins, fixed that too. I also pulled the steering stem yesterday to make sure it wasnt that the preload was letting the tire go too far back. I dont even know if thats possible but that locknut wasnt torqued so it worked out to be a good thing. Probably something I will check once a year or two just to be sure, maybe overkill but safety first. Just waiting on my shift shafts from APE to drop the motor now. On another note, I did a roll on with the cool weather here and damn did that baby pull. For just 7 psi, it suprised me. I went back and looked at the logs and although the woolich isnt calibrated that well and I couldnt read the wego logs, that interface isnt good, it looked like the AFR was at 12.3 at 7psi. I dont know. I texted Rob after that pull and asked how the hell he handled a 14lb spring on the street as mine was fuhkengruven and I cant see how 14 wouldnt just push me sideways to the side and spin me off the street on a street tire. I actually had to seriously lay on the brakes and downshift to slow down from a grey haired snowbird in front of me. I may need to upgrade to the gen II front end for better brakes. Going to read up on that.
 
Hi.
Glad to hear that you build it correctly.
I don't think that you need a gen2 front fork, just metal brake pads, steel braided brake lines, and maybe some heavier suspension and steering damper oil.
12,3 AFR is a bit lean, shoot for 12:1 - 12,2:1 below 7000 rpm and 11,8:1 above that.
I am at 12-13 psi (pump gas) and the trick for safe pulls is to think ahead and leave much more braking space , a Hayabusa turbo can easily kill you on the road.
Use a soft tyre like the Michelin sport pilot3, accelerate while totally vertical and lean on the tank in order to transfer weight to the front tyre, usually i avoid using the first two or three gears when i twist the throttle hard :laugh:
Chris
 
Yeah it usually ran super rich due to a mild and limp tune (this summer), with which I will never do biz with that guy again. And I cant be sure about the calibration of the datalogger but the air was 40 degrees cooler than I had ever rode it. Freak cold front here in FL where usually it is colder this time of year. I would never really want to go leaner than 11.8 with the motor stock as it is at the moment. Seems hard to believe the cooler air could have affected the tune that much and I dont really believe it, it probably would have grenaded the motor at that AFR if it were truly. I looked over the gen 2 conversion for the front end and it looks kind of expensive. I realize the brakes are better overall but like you said, there are other things that can be done, I already did the stainless lines. It would be neat but wheel,fender,brakes complete,forks, triple...Nobody is going to let that go for under $600 or so at the least. A big investment for a small payoff. And yes, 1st gear was and still is unusable for pulls on the street with tire at pressure even after I put in a 19t front. With a 17t it was retarded, instant shift light, 1st,2nd, would pull out of it in 3rd and pull nicely.
 
I can assure you that air temperature has a great effect on the tune and on horsepower, it is unbelievable how sensitive the engine is with air temperature.
It is like having a different bike on the summer and a different one in the winter.
12,3 or 12,5 to 1 is not going to grenade the motor in any case when the compression is lowered with a spacer or pistons AND rods but if you run the stock compression then 12:1 should be the max.
The water-air intercooler works miracles and this is the difference between a blown engine and an engine with 30-40k turbo miles.
As you said find the best tuner available tune it right or start richer than required and then fit a PCV with autotune for the magic to begin.
The autotune module will quickly make the bike accelerate like never before especially while transitioning from normal to boosted operation, not to mention that any high rpm AFR fine trimming is simple.
Chris
 
Dynojet does have an autotune for the gen 1 but it doesnt help since it wont control the secondaries although it would be ideal for a stage 1. They do not make an SFI or a hub for gen 1s. I can tune my stage 1 within safe limits with enough driving time, I had no choice when my ecu went out and the flash that the tuner put in was not anywhere near a stock flash. I tried the woolich autotune without the PC5 and with a WEGO and it was inefficient. Its much easier to datalog with the log box pro and come back and adjust the PC5. But with secondaries the game changes radically as does my level of knowledge become obsolete, especially now going with an AMS. With a standalone I might be able to pull it off but the price is too high. Another $3k to have a display isnt going to happen. I am already donating organs with the build and the plenum.
 
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