Dafeimao85
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Hi All. The 3D print works! Smooth like butter. I can't upload the video here. But it exactly 100% replica to the keihin Stva... I am out of time today but definitely will try to clear the C28 by testing further...
STVA Remove Help!
- Thread starter Dafeimao85
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Hi All. The 3D print works! Smooth like butter. I can't upload the video here. But it exactly 100% replica to the keihin Stva... I am out of time today but definitely will try to clear the C28 by testing further...
Dafeimao85
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My problematic slot became a hour glass.
Dafeimao85
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By the way may I confirm that when 3.9V for the stps the butterfly plates must be 90degree to the throttle body. But for the 0.5v or full close. Which position should it be?
I meddle too much with the stva til I lost confidence. The butterfly valve spring forward to the dash board to form a 90 degree close to the throttle body. By using finger push backward close, I only manage to get about 85 deg to the throttle body.
When close the buttfly valve should move forward to the dash or backward to the brake light? Please advise.
I meddle too much with the stva til I lost confidence. The butterfly valve spring forward to the dash board to form a 90 degree close to the throttle body. By using finger push backward close, I only manage to get about 85 deg to the throttle body.
When close the buttfly valve should move forward to the dash or backward to the brake light? Please advise.
I cannot remember, but I think the rear of the secondary plates raises up toward the back of the bike when they close?
I will check this afternoon when I get home from work, as the airbox is off my Gsx1k, and all they all work basically the same.
Dafeimao85
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Hi Sixpack577,
Thank you for the help. I watch some YouTube video on the stva. They move backward to the bike and then center straight up 90 degree for full open. I guess that's correct.
Dafeimao85
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OK I got too happy too early.
Was going thru something about the STVA and I realize something...
Hayabusa STVA
Gsxr 1k Stva
Notice the slot angel and the depth are a few mm different...
I will bring the original for a 3D scan then repair. Wasted the time.
Was going thru something about the STVA and I realize something...
Hayabusa STVA
Gsxr 1k Stva
Notice the slot angel and the depth are a few mm different...
I will bring the original for a 3D scan then repair. Wasted the time.
Dafeimao85
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In the post the 1k guy did mention he purposely tune 5 degree of because of the limit of very easy get C28. I will try to tune again to confirm the setting on the gear.
Dafeimao85
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I think will print 2 wheels to confirm I dunno which degree should the slot be like
Wish me luck...
Dafeimao85
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It's official.
Like what Sixpack577 said.
Alot of parts looks the same but not interchangeable.
The 1st 3d print fail.
Will be sending mine to scan
Like what Sixpack577 said.
Alot of parts looks the same but not interchangeable.
The 1st 3d print fail.
Will be sending mine to scan
Dafeimao85
Registered
OK all,
This is what I get from my 3D scan and the shop try it best to fill up the hour glass to as 90 degree as possible. (base on the photo of the butterfly valve angle. Shop suspect it worn off 4 directions).
The shop also took reference from BlueVD design to improve its regidness and thickness at the slot hoping for improvement and will not wedge into hour glass shape easily. It's like a combination of both.
I also add a hayabusa wording to the surface! Even though it is non visible externally
Will need to wait another 5Days. Hopefully it works. Once okay. I will start a new thread on and share how to judge. What to take note and how to do it.
Dafeimao85
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Good news! 3D print is in. Slightly loose fit. The rectangle slot is at 3.4mm I give too much gap for a 3mm slot. I will adjust to 3.2mm before sharing out the 3D print file. I temp fix by adding a high temp tape where the rectangle sit.
Time too constrain so fail to take Pic for alot of steps.
But!!! I still having problem. With the perfect fit, using finger push, the throttle body can maintain at close position (previously was ajar open position due to hour glass shape.
When I switch on engine. It try to conduct stva test. Then it proceed to close to about near 10% and open to 30% and try to close again. Repeat about 10x til it finally give up.
I think now it's a STVA motor bearing may have dried up grease resulting high resistance. I further confirm remove the whole unit and the valve rotate 350degree by the spring effortlessly. I realise it too late...
Anyone has any info on how to lube the stva?
Dafeimao85
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Finally solve!
So the final problem that persist my c28 was stps. The sensor!
Yes even though it was within specs for full close 0.5v and full open 3.9v
So what happen was I feel so desperate. I end up WD40 on all moving parts on the stva but still c28. In the end I just suddenly realize the stp is also a moving part. I just oil it out of a desperate move. I suspect the difficult movement create the resistance where it suppose to be created by the stva gear when full close!
So the final problem that persist my c28 was stps. The sensor!
Yes even though it was within specs for full close 0.5v and full open 3.9v
So what happen was I feel so desperate. I end up WD40 on all moving parts on the stva but still c28. In the end I just suddenly realize the stp is also a moving part. I just oil it out of a desperate move. I suspect the difficult movement create the resistance where it suppose to be created by the stva gear when full close!
Dafeimao85
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And I was too happy and I drop the fuel tank screw and went into the body. Now I need to open the side cowl to take out the screw
And I was too happy and I drop the fuel tank screw and went into the body. Now I need to open the side cowl to take out the screw
been there...done that
lol
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