SuperBike Surgery UK... splitting crankcase halves on a Busa motor!

[michael parris heuberger]

Ain’t it funny how the women(wives/girlfriends/significant other/etc) always assume they are in charge of the house . . . Rather than sharing the responsibilities and negotiating, they just assign the men with daily tasks and control all aspects of domestic duties... regardless of who actually pays for it all.
Always gives me a giggle.
Anyway, back to your domestic bliss and the niggles you are generating with having all your bike bits on a very organised shelving system.... go you!!
I like your style Michael, you are a man on a mission and know exactly where you are going with your torque monster, making a long term dream into a reality.
I think the thread about the pushrod seal you are referring to is the one where he just covers it over with silicone sealant?
He reckoned it worked, no more oil leaks, and not visible because it’s hidden away under the sprocket cover.
As for your frame colour you’re seeking direction on.... do you have any options already thought about? Or is it just unknown at this point?
It’s gotta be a colour that works with purple and white. . . Contrasting nicely but also subtly blending in with the overall colour combo.
Purple has blue and red in it, so how about a very deep blue colour... or crimson red??
I dunno, how about you decide from this chart.

Color Mixing Guide Poster – graf1x.com

Or this ...
View attachment 1631318

Hi. Go to Cerakote C series the motor will be painted Transfer grey C187 also the intercooler, radiator. On the frame I was looking at cerakote Lollypop purple C 163. Or power coat gloss black

 

[Bumblebee]

Looks like you’re stuck with your Busa for some time my friend, my bike is now 21 years old, 137,000kms and the motor has never been out of the frame(as far as I can tell) and the head has never been off.
Still runs strong, so yeah, they are bullet proof engines for sure. I mean, ya just don’t need to rev them hard to produce enough power and torque to put a grin on ya face.

I generally keep my bikes for a long time...I had my '85 GSXR for 20 yrs and my '86 Katana up to a couple years ago...I did all my own wrenching including cam swaps, and clutch swaps...I even took the head off my '86 Katana to clean all the carbon out...

I did a bunch of work on my Bandit and loved that motor...the Hayabusa scares me a little when I take the fairings off as there is a little bit more to this bike than my older ones.

 

[dave s]

How often do these seals leak,seems like a crazy design to have to split crankcase just to replace a seal

 

[dave s]

Do seals ,o rings dry out when bikes on winter hibernation ,if so best way to stop this

 

[Berlin Germany]

Frank, the seal is NOT ABLE to be removed from the crankcase . . the crankcase is covering over the outer portion of the seal, the case 'encloses' the seal.
The cases MUST be separated to remove it.
As I said, look at the 1st vid, at 13:20 he shows and explains all about it.
Here’s a pic of the seal in its position, notice how the case edges cover the outer of the seal

hi gregg
dear nice bird

yes your drawings show the situation correctly

but with a bit patience and by pulling the rod you can in connection with thorough cleaning of the fragments of the old seal fiddle / prick out the old seal (eventually by helping cuts inside /out)
and push then (+ eventually some loctite 603) the new seal (without that damn lip outside) simply in.

that way i understood the partzilla´s pic if it really shows the correct new busa´s rod seal .
havn´t done this fixing yet, but i guess i´ll try that way at a totaly broken (not yet opened) gen1 engine i have in my garage.

what i am definitely for 100% sure is the situation at my fj1200 with in general same kind of sealing its rod.
the fj also have a hydrauic clutch like the busa / b-king
and at the fj the seal is definitely nowhere kept by any outside lip in the case´s wall
and at the fj allways only the inner lip of the seal sometimes leak but never its outside.
that fact plus the pic of the new busa´s seal lead me to my technical thinking about the busa´s seal fix.

we´ll see

 

[Berlin Germany]

How often do these seals leak,seems like a crazy design to have to split crankcase just to replace a seal

fortunately very, very seldom
and
you will recognize the beginning leak when the bike is on its side stand for some hours.
then you´ll find a drop of oil underneath the bike

but don´t get worried if u use an automatic chain oiler - then its oil may cause the same drop(s) .

Do seals ,o rings dry out when bikes on winter hibernation ,if so best way to stop this

rubber-seals usually never harden - but very seldom they harden over a long time - i guess 20 years or so - by the heat of the engine
or by the sunlight - remember the dashboards in cars in all the sunny states.
(paper-seals can dry - over a longer time, yes, but usually not in a usual 3-6 month lasting "hibernation")

 

[Bagherra]

i've replaced the push rod seal a couple of time and i split the cases ...i've heard and seen guys replace the seal without splitting the cases...

 

[202mphbusa]

i've replaced the push rod seal a couple of time and i split the cases ...i've heard and seen guys replace the seal without splitting the cases...

done many many busa motors
No idea how you could get that seal out without case splitting
Removing cylinder not necessary but case halves split,,,how?

 

[Bagherra]

Wasnt on Busa motors...they did it on GSXR engine...saw a write-up on gixxer.com years ago and the guy did it and showed pix of how he did it..